Since I run an 1800kv motor, I can do 15 minutes easy. I'm almost positive I can run a 20 min. main by running conservative for 1/2 the race.

It seems that at long last the threads of my RC8Te's front gear box are starting to fade (the ones that keep the gearbox and entire shock-tower assembly onto the chassis). Now Im wondering should I get plastic or metal replacements? If there are front/rear gearbox housings for the RC8T I should get over the stock ones?

Or should I just slap heaps of superglue/loctite in the according holes? :D Or would screws with bigger and more coarse threading be the easy, cheap yet working way out? Any thoughts?

on hard packed loamy dirt dry/wet ?

with 7k in the center ?

also do you think i should use "40w f" and 40 r with the stock shock pistons if i can on the rc8t e right now im running "35f and 35r shock oil the stock rc8t ce setup ?

anybody know ?

I am thinking I am going to be switching up my setup... I love it, but, I want to get the temps down...I have the castle 2200kv with 2 6s 5000mah running in parallel..I love the run time... Not a racer, just a basher..I have the 48tooth spur and a 12 tooth pinion...I just went down to a 9 tooth pinion, but melted the spur since it was so hard to get a good gear mesh with that small of a pinion. Suggestions for battery size?

well i run a "50t spur and a "15t pinion" with a 4c lipo battery with a 2200 castle system and the motor gets warm but not so hot that you cant touch it.

and run at least a 35c to 40c better yet a 50c so its more efficent and it runs cooler also it helps to be smoother on the throttle .

Try 7,7,5. This should feel pretty good with the rear end able to rotate quickly. I personally liked 7,7,7 because it felt more stable.

Also, I use 35wt all around with stock pistons and silver springs all around. This has a great feel to it.

ok sounds good this truggy is pretty stable to me when its converted to electric of course even with lighter diff oil in the rear .

il keep the stock shock oil setup than.

so with adding lighter diff fluid in the center i know it unloads the front end more, so its just a smoother feel coming out of the turns ? so this is good for many track conditions smooth, bumpy, loose , high grip dirt ?

what are the pros and cons, of having the front end unload more with lighter oil in the center diff if you dont mind me asking ?

Mine
 

Havent seen this thread yet. Thought I would say hello with a pic of mine.

Got a new in package aluminum rear chassis brace for sale guys heres the link

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...race-rear.html

I use the Castle 2200 motor and that thing can be a beast in this truck. If you use a motor with lots of torque, acceleration can get out of control with higher center diff oil. Higher center diff oil will have very punchy acceleration but at the trade off is straight line acceleration may be difficult in looser conditions.

i use a castle 2200 also with a "50t spur and a "15t pinion in its pretty torquey espially if you use a "4c with a 50c" and with the "10k" in the center i get what you saying now.

yea a couple of times my truggy got loose and i did spin out once .
so im trying 7k in the center than :nod:

just wow very man i like the paint job i wish i had the patience to paint like that.

WED Jim did the paint. Check him out on the paint and graphics thread.

In 2 weeks I will be attempting a 30 minute main. Should be fun. :nod:

1350kv / 6S 5000mah setup.

Last time at the track this will be taking place I used 2200mah in 15 minutes. So, technically I should be able to do it with 200mah to spare! I'll be with nitros so this should be interesting!

well i am going back to what i know and its rc8be and rc8t ft ce stuff mugen not much parts suported here