T4 Owners Post Here!
#241
Tech Master
iTrader: (17)
shocks
browndawg, the stock shocks do leak. I would replace the o-rings with gs or racers edge. the associated unobatanium shafts are sweet as well. If I were you I wouldn't change my pistons if you plan on running outdoor. you'll want the softer setup outside for sure. the stock manual setup should be very close outside. you may even want more rear traction until you get used to being a little loose. We'll have to hookup some time at the new Eugene track or Canby so I can help you out. until then good luck. If you want motor help talk to Monty Houston up at A-main. He can help you out! You can't miss him just look for the biggest guy in the building and thats him. his cars are yellow orange and blue.
#242
Tech Apprentice
Thanks stu! I baught new shafts tonight and already have the better orings. She is going to get the once over tonight and I'll try looking Monty up this Friday night.
#243
HeY hEy!!!
you chould also get the threaded shock body i heard that help them from leaking w/ out getting thenew o-rings.
you chould also get the threaded shock body i heard that help them from leaking w/ out getting thenew o-rings.
#244
Tech Apprentice
Nope! I already have the threaded shock bodies and they Llleeeeaaaakkkk! But will rebuild the shocks tonight with the new shafts and o rings then we will see. I'm going to use the # 2 dampinig discs as well.
#245
Leeaaaak
I've found (2) things,
1. if you don't CRANK DOWN on the shock cap, they don't lead out of the top.
2. Get the General Silicons shock rebuilt kit for 10th scale. They have "shock bladders" that go on the top. This makes it so you don't ahve to fill the lid w/oil then put the two together. The bladder also seals the top from leaking.
Ok, 3 things, If you make sure you get all the burs off of the parts at the bottom of the shock, it'll make a better seal. Use associated's "Green slime" to help "LUBE" the shaft as you push it through the 1st time. I've pushed a dry shaft through only to tear the one of the red orings. (I'm assuming it was the threads)
1. if you don't CRANK DOWN on the shock cap, they don't lead out of the top.
2. Get the General Silicons shock rebuilt kit for 10th scale. They have "shock bladders" that go on the top. This makes it so you don't ahve to fill the lid w/oil then put the two together. The bladder also seals the top from leaking.
Ok, 3 things, If you make sure you get all the burs off of the parts at the bottom of the shock, it'll make a better seal. Use associated's "Green slime" to help "LUBE" the shaft as you push it through the 1st time. I've pushed a dry shaft through only to tear the one of the red orings. (I'm assuming it was the threads)
#246
Tech Apprentice
Thnx for the tips acyrier, I think I was tightning the caps too tight. I just snugged them this time. I just finished the rebuild and the truck sits up purdy! It has absolutly no bounce. I made some more adjustments in shock position Thnx Steve! I'm Really looking forward to Friday nights race. I'm going to look for those shock bladders!
#247
Tech Initiate
Hey guys, whatup. I just chewed up the bearings for the rear wheels on my T4 and I was wondering what kind of aftermarket options I have to replace the busted ones? Which ones do you guys use? And where can I get them? Thanks!
#248
HeY!!!
it depends how much you wanna spend, and if you care how much a bearing spins and that. i'm using the Team1 bearings and they're very nice but kinda expensive
it depends how much you wanna spend, and if you care how much a bearing spins and that. i'm using the Team1 bearings and they're very nice but kinda expensive
#249
Tech Initiate
Man, I found some ceramic bearings on acerracing.com, but they're $113 a set! Jeeze. well, I ended up getting some teflon sealed ones off eBay for $30 or so
#250
Tech Apprentice
I just read Associated's rebuilding shocks site and they said that the bladders should not be used on associated shocks!
#251
Bladders....
I don't know why they say that. I've got a TC3 and a T3 (just purchased a t4) and ahve had the shocks buillt both ways. The biggest difference to me was the ability to get all 4 shocks built the same. sometimes (without the bladders) I would get a little more or less oil and air in the body while putting the cap and body together. Using the baldders, I had no air in the body. To me, that's what makes a consistant shock build.
#253
Tech Apprentice
I wish we had a good shop here....every time I hear you guys say look for this really cool up grade I head for the hobby shop and they never have squat! They dont even have a good selection of stock motors. They dont even have a full selection of the trinity up grades. You would think that they would stay up on all the new upgrades $$$$$$
#254
HeY!!!
browndawg.... it sounds like you got some complaining to do to the hobby shop then get on there backs so they get some cool stuff. i just heard about the yok. shock caps yesterday from a freinds, and he said they work great, but didn't know price on them so does anyone know the price on them??? i might have to get some.
browndawg.... it sounds like you got some complaining to do to the hobby shop then get on there backs so they get some cool stuff. i just heard about the yok. shock caps yesterday from a freinds, and he said they work great, but didn't know price on them so does anyone know the price on them??? i might have to get some.
#255
Tech Apprentice
The shock caps with screws sounds like the answer and I hope that they will be in the shops. I like the idea of supporting our local shops so that they are there when we need them.