Losi 1/8 8ight E 4wd Thread
11-25-2008, 05:13 PM
#691
Man, that sucks donkey d_ _ _ _! 
I'm really sorry to hear you were basically LIED to. On the flip side, I doubt they had a soldering iron. More likely, it's a small office, near a FedEx with people payed to basically confirm you sent the broken part. Then some other place mails the new part to you. I don't understand why they would attempt to BS you, and I highly DOUBT they do anything but confirm you sent the damaged part in.
I had essentially the same thing happen to me(less the headaches), but the conversation was far less "Colorful"... I got my new motor/ESC in 1 week, and it's worked out very well for me. It sux you got shafted, but I wouldn't let some idiot ruin what you put so much $$$/effort into. You can quickly and easily make you own wires, with the banana plugs, some solder and some nice thick wire. It's very easy to do, in fact, I had to solder the new leads on my replacement. I was a little ticked they didn't return it like I sent it, but it only took me about 5 minutes to solder up the new wires, and haul butt to the track.
Don't give up! You're 5 short minutes from racing that ballistic missile! If you can't/won't solder it yourself, there's GOTTA be a hobbiest near you that will. You WON'T be disappointed!
I'm really sorry to hear you were basically LIED to. On the flip side, I doubt they had a soldering iron. More likely, it's a small office, near a FedEx with people payed to basically confirm you sent the broken part. Then some other place mails the new part to you. I don't understand why they would attempt to BS you, and I highly DOUBT they do anything but confirm you sent the damaged part in. I had essentially the same thing happen to me(less the headaches), but the conversation was far less "Colorful"... I got my new motor/ESC in 1 week, and it's worked out very well for me. It sux you got shafted, but I wouldn't let some idiot ruin what you put so much $$$/effort into. You can quickly and easily make you own wires, with the banana plugs, some solder and some nice thick wire. It's very easy to do, in fact, I had to solder the new leads on my replacement. I was a little ticked they didn't return it like I sent it, but it only took me about 5 minutes to solder up the new wires, and haul butt to the track.
Don't give up! You're 5 short minutes from racing that ballistic missile! If you can't/won't solder it yourself, there's GOTTA be a hobbiest near you that will. You WON'T be disappointed!
11-26-2008, 12:13 PM
#693
Tech Master
iTrader: (114)
I really like the colour combination you used! Good Job
11-26-2008, 12:27 PM
#694
Thank you! Those are variations on the original 8ight's theme. When it first came out, I got one and had my buddy paint it up just like the box. Later, he wound up with the skull stencils. We've been using them on a little bit of everything ever since. I have a touring car with basically the same scheme, just different colors.
I hope JConcepts makes theirs with even larger air ducts, and maybe a little bit lower roofline.
I hope JConcepts makes theirs with even larger air ducts, and maybe a little bit lower roofline.
11-26-2008, 01:58 PM
#695
A few pages back I posted about my 8ight-E being very sluggish until it warmed up. One response that made sense was the lipos were cold, because it was in low 50s that day and the coldest day I've ever run lipos outdoors. Unfortunately I now think that wasn't it.
My Xcelorin 2100 motor failed today after about 4 minutes of light running. I got a new battery in and wanted to test it out to make sure everything was working for a race this weekend. It wasn't even 4 minutes of continious running, just a few passes back and forth and then it stopped turning. The steering still worked, the esc was on, and the lights on the ESC would indicate full throttle and reverse at the right points on the transmitter... just no rotor movement. I recalibrated the esc to be sure, and still nothing. Took it back in and pulled the motor, immediately noticed there was very little resistance on the rotor. Seems to me like a separated rotor
Called Horizon and they want me to send it back so I did. After thinking it over later, it started to make sense to me. The low punch when it was first turned on might have been the rotor slipping. As it heated up slightly it probably was able to grab properly, but eventually wore out. Sounds possible but I don't really know.
I sure hope I get a replacement back quickly, I'm going to The Fall Brawl at Badlands - Myrtle Beach, SC next weekend.
My Xcelorin 2100 motor failed today after about 4 minutes of light running. I got a new battery in and wanted to test it out to make sure everything was working for a race this weekend. It wasn't even 4 minutes of continious running, just a few passes back and forth and then it stopped turning. The steering still worked, the esc was on, and the lights on the ESC would indicate full throttle and reverse at the right points on the transmitter... just no rotor movement. I recalibrated the esc to be sure, and still nothing. Took it back in and pulled the motor, immediately noticed there was very little resistance on the rotor. Seems to me like a separated rotor
Called Horizon and they want me to send it back so I did. After thinking it over later, it started to make sense to me. The low punch when it was first turned on might have been the rotor slipping. As it heated up slightly it probably was able to grab properly, but eventually wore out. Sounds possible but I don't really know.
I sure hope I get a replacement back quickly, I'm going to The Fall Brawl at Badlands - Myrtle Beach, SC next weekend.
11-26-2008, 02:03 PM
#697
I'm willing to bet it was still the battery warming up that caused the lack of punch at the farm and that the motor failure was a totally separate incident. On the novak thread, whenever a rotor starts slipping it is fine when cold and then is noticeable once it warms up.
11-26-2008, 02:13 PM
#698
Tech Regular
iTrader: (46)
My question is, When is Losi going to address the problem? There is obviously a large issue with the motors. Are they sending back the same problematic motors as replacements. Or have they found a problem and fixed it. My buggy was bought from the same place as Miller. At the moment mine is still running. But I feel like I have an expensive time bomb down stairs. I also plan to go to the Fall Brawl. I am going to be pissed if I spend all that money to go down there and have the same problem.
Then when people have problems I have heard horror stories about service. If they don't fix the motor problems soon. And if they don't fix there service issues. They stand to lose a bunch of business. I mean these are not mini-t's here. I have over $1000 in mine. And ufortunately I am starting to feel like a made a big mistake by buying it.
Losi, Are you listening?
Then when people have problems I have heard horror stories about service. If they don't fix the motor problems soon. And if they don't fix there service issues. They stand to lose a bunch of business. I mean these are not mini-t's here. I have over $1000 in mine. And ufortunately I am starting to feel like a made a big mistake by buying it.
Losi, Are you listening?
11-26-2008, 04:32 PM
#702
I sure hope I get a replacement back quickly, I'm going to The Fall Brawl at Badlands - Myrtle Beach, SC next weekend.
I'm sure there are gonna be some "Teething Issues", that's typical of any new product like this. Don't give up, and don't let the horror stories get to you. Send the broken part in, they will send a new one.
yO r40 SICK PAINT SCHEMEZZZ !!!
11-26-2008, 06:00 PM
#703
The 8IGHT-E comes with 54 front piston and 56 rear piston and also 5000wt in the center diff. Here is the setup that is on the vehicle.
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/t...RaceRoller.pdf
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/t...RaceRoller.pdf
Mine are white front and rear on my 8ight E.
Mr. Hodge said the kit setup uses 54 and 56 pistons.
Are all the pistons the same color and drilled differently?
I didn't notice any markings to describe any differences.
One setup in the manuals uses the 54 and 56 pistons but another uses 55 pistons all around.
Can anyone shed some lite on this?
My buggy seems to want the 54 40wt./56 25wt. setup but seems to feel like it may have a 55/55 setup since it acts like I need to go heavier in the front and lighter in the rear to correct the way it handles right now. (Did that make sense?)
11-26-2008, 07:06 PM
#704
They are all white, there should be a number on them however. Might be on the underside from how they are mounted on the shafts. The issue with the suspension feeling soft I believe is because the electric versions carry more weight and could probably use a bit more dampening.
11-26-2008, 07:26 PM
#705
Which brings me to my next question.
What is the killer setup for an 8 1/2 pound electric buggy.
Is the kit setup (assuming it is the 54/56) the right starting point?
It shows that setup as Adam Drakes nitro setup for Revelation Raceway.
That would be a nearly 1 pound lighter car.
Anyone?
What is the killer setup for an 8 1/2 pound electric buggy.
Is the kit setup (assuming it is the 54/56) the right starting point?
It shows that setup as Adam Drakes nitro setup for Revelation Raceway.
That would be a nearly 1 pound lighter car.
Anyone?