Tekno Conversions Thread
#46
Tech Adept
here is my setup
#47
Looks good!!! You may have the motor plates (the 2 pieces underneath the motor mount) in the reverse position. You should be able to turn them around so the clutch assembly is better supported on the motor shaft. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos not sure. Either way, thanks for posting your setup. One of our drivers also likes to mount his ESC in the center. Nice job!
Here's a link to another setup that someone just posted on RC-Monster:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14293
Here's a link to another setup that someone just posted on RC-Monster:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=14293
#48
conversions
is there any plans for any other r/c brands buggies or truggys for a conversion if so which ones ,i have a hyper 8.5 that i might convert later this yearafter i get a new buggy.
#49
As far as I know, they are testing the RC8, CRTX2, and MBX5T right now. And I am sure they will release more in the future. I am sure Tekno will comment on this as well.
#50
Tech Rookie
I have received my Tekno conversion for my Losi-8T. It looks like a great design. I do have a question though using a DX3R. Is it possible to set up the radio with mechanical brakes to both brake and then the motor reverses at maximum back trigger? I mean, as soon as you hit the back or up trigger to brake, the brakes engage progressively, and then when you near the stop, the brakes release and the motor goes into reverse. This could be beneficial to get yourself out of those pesky nose-first into barriers predicaments or when stuck bashing.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
#51
I am having troubles trying to get my throttle servo to work my brakes.I am using a M8 controller.It should work.I am sure its something simple but i cant figure it out.
#52
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
I have received my Tekno conversion for my Losi-8T. It looks like a great design. I do have a question though using a DX3R. Is it possible to set up the radio with mechanical brakes to both brake and then the motor reverses at maximum back trigger? I mean, as soon as you hit the back or up trigger to brake, the brakes engage progressively, and then when you near the stop, the brakes release and the motor goes into reverse. This could be beneficial to get yourself out of those pesky nose-first into barriers predicaments or when stuck bashing.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
I would not recommend this as it can be a bit dangerous (on a race track). However I though about the ability to do it and I don't think it would be possible to program the DX3 for making the brake (channel 3) to just recover to neutral while you are pushing the trigger to brake. Just out of it's program ability, but I could be wrong.
Just kidding. Call me tomorrow (Sunday) and I can help you get things going over the phone. Just wait until after noon please.
#53
I have received my Tekno conversion for my Losi-8T. It looks like a great design. I do have a question though using a DX3R. Is it possible to set up the radio with mechanical brakes to both brake and then the motor reverses at maximum back trigger? I mean, as soon as you hit the back or up trigger to brake, the brakes engage progressively, and then when you near the stop, the brakes release and the motor goes into reverse. This could be beneficial to get yourself out of those pesky nose-first into barriers predicaments or when stuck bashing.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
If this is not possible, having reverse is definitely a plus to going direct drive over a clutch/mechanical brake setup.
That said, if you're careful, you could set up the brake servo to engage a little later so that some reverse throttle can be applied before the brakes engage. This could get you out of a corner or something if you needed to. Using the reverse lockout feature, you could still retain your servo brakes for the first reverse movement. But the next reverse movement will turn start to turn the motor backwards, which is where the possible damage can occur.
As marzac said though most tracks don't allow reverse. But if you're bashing, obviously you can do what you like .
#54
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=teknorc;4744020]Looks good!!! You may have the motor plates (the 2 pieces underneath the motor mount) in the reverse position. You should be able to turn them around so the clutch assembly is better supported on the motor shaft. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos not sure.
I tried changing the motor plates to the forward position and it didnt work for me. after re-setting the clutch assy. as far back as i could the clutch screw was rubbing on the servo support. I put it back and all is well.
I tried changing the motor plates to the forward position and it didnt work for me. after re-setting the clutch assy. as far back as i could the clutch screw was rubbing on the servo support. I put it back and all is well.
#55
Reverse is not accepted at most race tracks and not at any big event for sure. I think it's because they want everyone to have the same chance to win. If you have reverse and are stuck on a pipe, but can reverse to recover, how is that fair for your race mates that have no reverse and have to wait for a turn marshal? They will protest.
I would not recommend this as it can be a bit dangerous (on a race track). However I though about the ability to do it and I don't think it would be possible to program the DX3 for making the brake (channel 3) to just recover to neutral while you are pushing the trigger to brake. Just out of it's program ability, but I could be wrong.
That's because you need a brake servo running things, not a throttle servo
Just kidding. Call me tomorrow (Sunday) and I can help you get things going over the phone. Just wait until after noon please.
I would not recommend this as it can be a bit dangerous (on a race track). However I though about the ability to do it and I don't think it would be possible to program the DX3 for making the brake (channel 3) to just recover to neutral while you are pushing the trigger to brake. Just out of it's program ability, but I could be wrong.
That's because you need a brake servo running things, not a throttle servo
Just kidding. Call me tomorrow (Sunday) and I can help you get things going over the phone. Just wait until after noon please.
#56
[QUOTE=jlinds;4747849]
Hi jlinds,
I just noticed something else in the pics. Try reversing the motor plates one more time, but this time, turn the motor mount right-side-up (with the Tekno logo on top). You can access the set screw through the cut out on the mount. This will let you put the clutch assembly a few mm further back so it's not hitting the servo mount and it will be fully supported. You shouldn't have any problems the way you're running it, I just noticed and thought I'd mention it. Take it easy.
Looks good!!! You may have the motor plates (the 2 pieces underneath the motor mount) in the reverse position. You should be able to turn them around so the clutch assembly is better supported on the motor shaft. Maybe it's just the angle of the photos not sure.
I tried changing the motor plates to the forward position and it didnt work for me. after re-setting the clutch assy. as far back as i could the clutch screw was rubbing on the servo support. I put it back and all is well.
I tried changing the motor plates to the forward position and it didnt work for me. after re-setting the clutch assy. as far back as i could the clutch screw was rubbing on the servo support. I put it back and all is well.
I just noticed something else in the pics. Try reversing the motor plates one more time, but this time, turn the motor mount right-side-up (with the Tekno logo on top). You can access the set screw through the cut out on the mount. This will let you put the clutch assembly a few mm further back so it's not hitting the servo mount and it will be fully supported. You shouldn't have any problems the way you're running it, I just noticed and thought I'd mention it. Take it easy.
#57
Tech Adept
[QUOTE=teknorc;4749520]
Hi jlinds,
I just noticed something else in the pics. Try reversing the motor plates one more time, but this time, turn the motor mount right-side-up (with the Tekno logo on top). You can access the set screw through the cut out on the mount. This will let you put the clutch assembly a few mm further back so it's not hitting the servo mount and it will be fully supported. You shouldn't have any problems the way you're running it, I just noticed and thought I'd mention it. Take it easy.
oooo the details the little bitty details. I'll try that today.
By the way I didnt get to run this weekend
I broke a front shock tower mount and team losi was kind enough to make sure the set screw in the diff cup was so tight it couldnt be removed. I had to drill it out.
Managed to fix it yesterday and got some more track time.
We changed the track for saturday nights race and after seeing the smokers unable to clear some of the new jumps that i cleared with ease i cant wait till the next race.
Hi jlinds,
I just noticed something else in the pics. Try reversing the motor plates one more time, but this time, turn the motor mount right-side-up (with the Tekno logo on top). You can access the set screw through the cut out on the mount. This will let you put the clutch assembly a few mm further back so it's not hitting the servo mount and it will be fully supported. You shouldn't have any problems the way you're running it, I just noticed and thought I'd mention it. Take it easy.
By the way I didnt get to run this weekend
I broke a front shock tower mount and team losi was kind enough to make sure the set screw in the diff cup was so tight it couldnt be removed. I had to drill it out.
Managed to fix it yesterday and got some more track time.
We changed the track for saturday nights race and after seeing the smokers unable to clear some of the new jumps that i cleared with ease i cant wait till the next race.
#58
Tech Master
iTrader: (12)
Jlinds,
Try using a small torch to heat the drive cup next time you get stuck with a set screw. It is a cool trick for getting the Loctite to come loose. It doesnt take a lot of heat to get it to work, but it is a hard place to get to.
Got some pictures of your tracks layout?
Try using a small torch to heat the drive cup next time you get stuck with a set screw. It is a cool trick for getting the Loctite to come loose. It doesnt take a lot of heat to get it to work, but it is a hard place to get to.
Got some pictures of your tracks layout?
#59
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
Wow, so I thought I subscribed to this thread when it first opened but then I check back and see that I missed a lot!
Anyway, I just put up part 1 of a race from about 2 weeks ago that I had my wife film for me. Part 2 is uploading now. Here is part 1. I finished second but almost had first until I crashed and was upside down for 10 secs!! The leader had the yellow/green body, yellow wheels and wing and was right in front of me when I crashed. I'll also be posting up some pics of my buggy and truggy conversions sometime today. The truggy in the video is my Losi 8T with Tekno conversion. MM esc (only mods are Castle BEC and a Novak fan), 6s 4250 18c Hyperion battery, 1515 1.5y Neu motor. Truggy was a race roller and the setup is straight out of the box.
Anyway, I just put up part 1 of a race from about 2 weeks ago that I had my wife film for me. Part 2 is uploading now. Here is part 1. I finished second but almost had first until I crashed and was upside down for 10 secs!! The leader had the yellow/green body, yellow wheels and wing and was right in front of me when I crashed. I'll also be posting up some pics of my buggy and truggy conversions sometime today. The truggy in the video is my Losi 8T with Tekno conversion. MM esc (only mods are Castle BEC and a Novak fan), 6s 4250 18c Hyperion battery, 1515 1.5y Neu motor. Truggy was a race roller and the setup is straight out of the box.
#60
Tech Adept
Jlinds,
Try using a small torch to heat the drive cup next time you get stuck with a set screw. It is a cool trick for getting the Loctite to come loose. It doesnt take a lot of heat to get it to work, but it is a hard place to get to.
Got some pictures of your tracks layout?
Try using a small torch to heat the drive cup next time you get stuck with a set screw. It is a cool trick for getting the Loctite to come loose. It doesnt take a lot of heat to get it to work, but it is a hard place to get to.
Got some pictures of your tracks layout?