newbie2

iTrader: (17)

inatalling in a xxx cr will be no problem, just need the gear diff and tranny case, also be sure to get the tranny screw set as they are a little longer, the old ones will not work. also u may need to change the cvd's... in my MF2 i had to use dogbones that were .215" longer......

LadiesFirst

I have been away from the hobby for awhile. I have a Losi MF1 truck. I don't know a lot about the new CR but have been told that Losi basically went back to the Gen 1 transmission that was in MF1 (although small gear difference). I notice on this thread some of the references to changes in order to put the Desert trans in a XXXT MF2, but some the original XXXT parts are mentioned. Is it easier therefore to adapt it to an MF1? I just went brushless and will probably not do as much maintence on my transmission as when I ran brushed as I always pulled the brushed motors off to be cleaned, so it was just natural that the next step would be diff. However, I seldom remove the brushed motor for now. I would like a "maintenance free" transmission. Thanks.

newbie2

iTrader: (17)

the gear ratio in the cr an the MF1 are the same 243:1. all u will need to do is get the diff gear, tranny case and the tranny screw set.... possibly longer dogbones, not sure what size the mf1 takes, in my mf2 they were .215 short...I used bones from a mf1 but I don't know if they were the stock ones. If u need more help I cn measure the bone length for u... One thing I did notice last night while tuning on my backyard track was the moly grease I put in the diff may be to stiff, it seem to be acting more like a posi traction..(while cornering) I am going to change to the losi silicone grease and use just enough for lubrication...

newbie2

iTrader: (17)

changed to a lighter grease (losi silicone, clear) worked good, didn't use very much just enough for some lubrication,... got a race comin up Sun. will find out how this is going to work in a race envirement.. poor ad2 going have to sit out this one...

h8kid

newbie2: How did it go on the race?

newbie2

iTrader: (17)

races went well tq'd monster trk, then was rained out for the main.. didn't get to run ele. 1/10,, night befor race while playing on my backyard track I burned up a 12 battery pack old sphere comp. speed control... not to happy abut that... it'll go out in the mail tomorrow.. Diff is still holding up good. Just took it apart today to check it out, still like new probly have dozen lipo packs thru it on a 10.5 novak (which also smoked when the speed control went) then to make matters worse I hooked my 17.5 up and smoked that also.... didn't realize it was the speed control that was bad... expensive day for me.... back to the diff I really like it but won't have chance to race it until the weekend of the 4th....were going down to stateline in Ind. there having a 150 lap 1/10 gas truck race Fri. nght then we'll do the FTMS ele. on Sat.....welcome anyone in the area to come race...

h8kid

Nice that the diff is still good.. Sorry about your smoked electrics though

Would you mind measuring som stuff for me?

The outdrive and the whole diff from outdrive to outdrive.. Look at the attached pic


Thanks,
Jimmy

newbie2

iTrader: (17)

I can't give u the length of lthe outdrive without dismantling the tranny, but the distance from the bearing to the end of lthe outdrive is .469",,,,the total width of the assembled diff is 1.97".....hope that helps if u need more let me know...

h8kid

Ok great

I'll be away for two days now, but I'll be back on friday, so then I'm gonna measure and compare with my CR ball diff...

h8kid

So.. Measured my CR diff to exactly 1.97" inches, or 5 centimeters...

Think I'ma order soon

The Warlock

iTrader: (5)

I've done some testing with this set-up. First of all, the install, you need the tranny case, the diff itself and two 1/8" longer case screws, so I would get the DT tranny screw kit too. All the other parts from a Gen 1 or new CR will fit. Where the tranny case fits into the shock tower is too wide, a little dremeling is needed, not much. If your running an aluminum rear pivot, it will need dremeling as well. Where the bearings protrude on the DT diff, they hit the pivot and wont allow the tranny to go all the way down. I haven't tried a plastic pivot, I don't know if that one works without dremeling. Length of outdrive/driveshafts was fine. Performance, so far it's holding up to a 5.5 and lipo. Tried stealth lube, it's a little loose and unloads fairly easy. AE black grease was worse. Mugen 5000 wt diff oil tightened it up and provided extra traction. I will be taking it out soon to check to see how well it is sealed. There's enough time on it, where if it was a ball diff it would need rebuilding, and the gears are still smooth.

ROV

iTrader: (4)

A Mate and i just got our first losi's and dont know much about gen1 gen2 and DT and the like .
I got the xxxt CR he got the SpeedT
We want to change the Speed t diff from locker to diff for bashing.

Whats the easyest wayand what do we need. ordering from Lossi partshouse..??
CHEERS in advance for any help...

929rog

I've had one in my XXXT since the day it was available. It works awesome. I run a 7700 with lipo's and I have beat the diff alot. I took it apart and it looks new. I just ordered another for my speed t but they are on back order. I'm going to start playing with different weight fluids. You will also have to lightly file or sand the cases or shock towers slightly for it to fit.

move over

I would venture to guess that it depends on if your intent is to go racing or if you plan on just bashing.
For bashing I would guess they DT diff would be the way to go. But for racing, since spyder gear diffs predated any balldiff, I would think that a proper fully-functioning race-quality ball diff would still remain at the top of the heap.

party_wagon

iTrader: (29)

Ball diffs are lighter then gear diffs which means that if your running stock or 19 turn then your losing speed. However, you don't really need a gear diff for stock & 19 turn. Now, mod has too much power so a gear diff is perfect for it.