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Old 07-05-2003, 07:31 PM
  #166  
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no real building tips except maybe to use some rtv to seal the diffs but you may want to wait untill the diffs have broken in and change the fluid i am lazy so i just built them and went racing been 3 races now and no signs of leakage whatsoever

i dont like the standard diff setup it seems to me that the front and center shouldnt be the same the book says 3k front and center i used 3k front and 5k center 1k rear w/no o-rings

i would never have thought the suggested setup for the rear diff would be o-ringless but it is

i guess i should also mention that when i say no o-rings i dont mean the ones that seal the outdrives but they have orings that go into the spider gears in the rear you dont use them

i also forgot that i was told to put 3mm spacer between the steering servo saver arm thingys (part #eo304) and the steering brace (eo305) to eliminate bump steer

however i have noticed some mbx5 racers have bent the steering brace i havent i may be because of those shims i only have 1mm spacer i was told 1mm so i did it then the person corrected themself after i had already switched it to 1mm and let me tell you its difficult to do after the buggy is assembled

i figure since my servo was killed i took some hard hits on the front but my brace doesnt appear to be bent like some others i saw

also make certain the steering servo wire is tucked under the piece its supposed to tuck under on the front of the center diff housing i didnt realize it untill it nearly ate all the way through my wires

tambok you may now be forced to run in the expert class after you start whoopin up on everybody with that new X5
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Old 07-05-2003, 07:44 PM
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my setup is 3k,5k,1k diffs front to rear most guys i know are using 7k center but i dont feel like rebuilding the diff so i havent tried it

i have also switched to 40 front shock oil with 30 rear and ditched the mugen 350 oil that came with it becasue i feel more comfortable with the trinity oil i am used to

for the pro-series i switched the rear sway bar to the softer 2.6 and removed the front sway bar so i could get some more traction mainly steering

that worked extremely well for me on that track but i think i may need to put the front sway bar back on for this weekend at my local track which has more traction
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Old 07-05-2003, 07:51 PM
  #168  
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i talked to my friend today and he told me that the airtronics servo he had that failed he sent to airtronics and they charged him $80 bucks to fix it

i pulled my servo apart and sure enough it has 1 plastic gear in it and it was destroyed i went to lhs and got one for $5 so thats what i am going to be using unless something more severe happens because i need to spend my RC money to buy more tires instead

i caught a tire sale today and got some pro-line 9011 step-pins for $13 a pair so i am going to give em a try

i have noticed 1 of the fastests guys in the area usually has a set on top of his table so they must work OK or he woulda left them in his pit box
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Old 07-05-2003, 09:06 PM
  #169  
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PTP Racing:
thanks for the setup and the tips.
How old was your friend's servo?

You might wanna check out out as for tires and rims...... check out
www.nitrohouse.com
and get those OFNA aerodish rims $15 for 3 pairs...they're durable enough......and for tires try Jay Jammin round pins or square pins(under "blowout sale")...only $10.50 a pair...it works here at KZ Speedway...loose and bumpy track.
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Old 07-06-2003, 08:20 AM
  #170  
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i think the servo he broke was relatively new but maybe not

i broke a hitec servo in the second qualifier borrowed one of his airtronics then he broke an airtronics in the 3rd qualifier luckily he had 2 spares because i remember thinking i was done for the day when he broke it

i havent checked the ofna dish wheels but i have checked the ofna 5 spokes out and you have to dremel them to fit them on the rear of mbx5 (or mbx4xr) so i try to stick with the proline dish wheels

i order form nitrohouse all the time they may be the best when it comes to mugen parts

i shoulda tried some of those jammin jay tires maybe next time i order from them

have you tried panther tires? the step-pin is awesome komodo dragon works well and the chameleon works good on blue groove

try those step-pins out you wont be sorry especially if you say the track your on is loose
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Old 07-06-2003, 03:13 PM
  #171  
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Originally posted by PTP Racing

i havent checked the ofna dish wheels but i have checked the ofna 5 spokes out and you have to dremel them to fit them on the rear of mbx5 (or mbx4xr) so i try to stick with the proline dish wheels

i order form nitrohouse all the time they may be the best when it comes to mugen parts

i shoulda tried some of those jammin jay tires maybe next time i order from them

have you tried panther tires? the step-pin is awesome komodo dragon works well and the chameleon works good on blue groove

try those step-pins out you wont be sorry especially if you say the track your on is loose
I usually run the Panther Step pins if I get a good deal on it......the jammin jays are inexpensive and are the ones I usually use here.......and those PRP tires made in China ....crimefighter knock offs and round pins ......$16.50 mounted (a pair) at my KZ speedway hobby shop....sure beats Proline's price.
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Old 07-06-2003, 06:27 PM
  #172  
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ive never heard of the PRP tires before but for a deal like that i would use them too at least in club races

i really like those panther tires iif you search for them on ebay you can get them for $31 for 4 tires

i guess i need to start searching for some better bargains i only have proline and panther tires

i dont mind too much the price i guess because i used to run touring car where tires didnt last a whole day most of the time

i am pretty easy on the 1/8 tires i can usually get 3 or 4 whole race days on a set of tires

i ran crime fighters at least 3 tanks during pro-series practice and they show no wear i had almost 2 complete race days on my step-pins but i got a little trigger happy during the main and wore them pretty good but they are still useable
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Old 07-06-2003, 08:16 PM
  #173  
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Originally posted by PTP Racing
i dont mind too much the price i guess because i used to run touring car where tires didnt last a whole day most of the time
....lol I used to race 1/8 on road.....and those $40 a set foams just wear out like crazy.
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Old 07-11-2003, 10:12 AM
  #174  
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wow....this kit is so easy to assemble. Everything fits like a glove....no handfitting required.
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Old 07-11-2003, 04:18 PM
  #175  
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yes welcome to mugen

all the mugen kits ive built were great

i think you will also eventually say that the parts are more durable also

have fun racing it

one piece of advice be carefull or you will overshoot all your landings something about it maybe gear ratio or it being so light but it is really fast and jumps really far
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Old 07-12-2003, 12:28 AM
  #176  
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It's the second Mugen I've assembled......the pivot balls reminds me of my MRX3....

Really? It jumps longer/ higher...overshoots? ...I guess I don't need to worry too much on my clutch setup then....not like the K2 I had to do some mods on clutch setups.......that darn thing is just heavy.
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Old 07-12-2003, 12:44 AM
  #177  
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getting mine next week
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Old 07-12-2003, 01:47 PM
  #178  
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Just picked mine up. Gonna start building it today. Does anyone have any opinions the Sirio (supposedly the most powerful .21 engine RCCA has tested) vs the WS7-2?! I'm going through engine choice dilemna right now.
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Old 07-12-2003, 03:21 PM
  #179  
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I wish I could afford one of those...(14 w/ no job)
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Old 07-12-2003, 03:25 PM
  #180  
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either that or a OFNA 9.5.....
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