OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

The T4 is a great truck to build. I think the B44 is a very, very incredible exception to any build that I have ever done. The fit and finish is incredible and it rivals the T4. The T4 is an easier build because its 2wd, but it doesnt have that super refined feel of the B44.

plumslow

iTrader: (1)

The only one-way that should work is the associated NTC3 one-way. I have one for my bj4 and it should work from what I have seen. The TC3 one-way is not wide enough. If you get the one-way you may want to get the springs that go in them from J concepts to keep the outdrive in place better. I painted the outdrives red to be able to find them since the front arms would break on the BJ and the outdrives would get lost on the track.

Kingsbury

iTrader: (50)

Compared to the Tamiya 501x, the B44 was very easy to arrange electronics. I fitted the max amps 4400 pack. Put the blue thumbscrews on a long screw then screwed it all the way to the posts, then adjusted the thumb S. to tighten strap. I added weight to the chassis between the packs.

magm20001

iTrader: (5)

anyone know if its possible to get rid of the thunbscrews? use mini body pins instead?

fraz

I use a Spektrum so I let my antenna dangle as it is short. But I found a better use for the antenna mount. I took a small black zip tie and pulled it through the screw holes and made a small loop. Why? I route my 2-3 motor wires through it under the upper deck over to the motor. Just enough to keep it off the driveshaft and it looks very clean. Oh yeah, make sure the zip tie block is on the bottom side for best effect If I had my camera set up now I'd post a pic. Maybe later.

As for servo, I used an Airtronics xx359 analog I had for a spare and it is more than enough. Works extremely well.

OG RC 10T

iTrader: (41)

Has anyone tried different gearing yet?

Im running the 6.5 with the 19 tooth just like the manual suggests. Has anyone had any luck trying anything else.

Teddygoat

iTrader: (4)

Hi,
Can in one in this thread tell me what the outer width of the B4 arms are at the inner hinge pins, as well as the inside width at the outer hinge pin?

Thanks

Craps

I use socket head allen screws with washers to hold my 5500 MaxAmps in. They never come out of the buggy. charge in place.

Aaron Bigger

I have gone as high as 22T / 81T on the B44 with a 6.5 sintered rotor. On large outdoor track. Motor temp was 150 after 15 minutes of run time.


One thing I would call it...


Stupid fast. Still had great aceleration it just had way more top end than a 19T.

Crazy Carl

iTrader: (7)

I did away with the thumb screws and used the screws from the B4 with the small holes and the clips.

tuffthegamer

iTrader: (3)

I think I need to remount my elecs. I seen someone have the rx behind the motor and the esc behind the servo. I never thought about running it that way. Sure would make it a lot cleaner and easier to route the wires. I think the manual shows it like I put it in, the rx behind the servo, and the esc behind the motor.

The only question I have with this rx behind motor install, would that cause glitching because of the rfs from the motor?

Thanks

magm20001

iTrader: (5)

u got part #?

t4ftracer

iTrader: (73)

screws: 6929
clips: 6332

Midnight

iTrader: (87)

Thats the way I installed mine and it doesnt glitch at all.

kenshu

iTrader: (1)

The way the book has the electrics. It makes the car 6 oz heavier on the right then the left. If you put just the receiver on the right it will only be 1.7 oz heavier on the right. I ran mine both ways. I couldn't tell a difference in the way the car handled. But then I'm old(47). But I did like the wiring better. The B44 RULES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!