New ACADEMY 1/10 scale 2WD BUGGY
#3496
Great site, on the "old" site he had gearing for brushed motors also!
I run SP/Tekin motors and SP ESC the Novak gearing works for the SP 13.5 and Tekin 10.5 in T4 and SC10.
Your tran is 2.60x1 like AE's IF I remember correctly, you should be fine with Novak gearing.
See you UNDER the lights @ Farmers Hobby and Raceway!!
I run SP/Tekin motors and SP ESC the Novak gearing works for the SP 13.5 and Tekin 10.5 in T4 and SC10.
Your tran is 2.60x1 like AE's IF I remember correctly, you should be fine with Novak gearing.
See you UNDER the lights @ Farmers Hobby and Raceway!!
#3498
I have 2 more rounds in the Super Cup spring series for stock 13.5 that I will run my Novak 13.5 with the SP GT2.0 in and then I am done racing stock, so I am not going to get a SP 13.5
#3500
I use that site as well, but it seems a little weird at times.
For the Castle 4600Kv it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 5.5:1
For a Novak 10.5 (4200Kv) it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 8:1
And for a Novak 8.5 (5000Kv) it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 9:1
For the Castle 4600Kv it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 5.5:1
For a Novak 10.5 (4200Kv) it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 8:1
And for a Novak 8.5 (5000Kv) it states: The ideal final drive ratio for this car and motor is about 9:1
I was told when I first ran it with a 4600 to go 22/83. Temps were good, infield speed was fine, but I couldn't use it all on the straightaway. I just puttered around my driveway with 20/83 and its so much smoother and should be plenty on the straight. Might even go down some more on the pinion.
#3501
I was told when I first ran it with a 4600 to go 22/83. Temps were good, infield speed was fine, but I couldn't use it all on the straightaway. I just puttered around my driveway with 20/83 and its so much smoother and should be plenty on the straight. Might even go down some more on the pinion.
22p/83s= 9.13FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -66%")
20p/83s=10.04FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -82.55%")
The website recommends 5.5FDR or 37p/83s=5.43FDR ("Slightly over geared by 1.27%")
Like I said; I have used the site before and it does seam to provide reasonable gearing for the Novak motors... but it appears that the the castle gearing is way out in left field. IDK, but there is a big difference from a 5.5FDR to a 9-10FDR and at a 5.5FDR I would think you would be looking at a motor melt down. I'm not bashing the site & I do use it. Just be aware to take the information with a grain of salt.
Anyway, I guess I got some of what I was looking for: someone that has been runing the Castle 4600Kv and where they were on their real world gearing.
I think WYD also used to run Acedemy in a GV2, so maybe he'll offer up some advice as well.
#3502
Thanks! Yeah the plugs on the motor is a great idea and their speedos are pretty dialed. They have a lot of software updates and a lot of team support as well. I am looking forward to getting the stuff and dialing it in.
#3503
Thanks Dob.
22p/83s= 9.13FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -66%")
20p/83s=10.04FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -82.55%")
The website recommends 5.5FDR or 37p/83s=5.43FDR ("Slightly over geared by 1.27%")
Like I said; I have used the site before and it does seam to provide reasonable gearing for the Novak motors... but it appears that the the castle gearing is way out in left field. IDK, but there is a big difference from a 5.5FDR to a 9-10FDR and at a 5.5FDR I would think you would be looking at a motor melt down. I'm not bashing the site & I do use it. Just be aware to take the information with a grain of salt.
Anyway, I guess I got some of what I was looking for: someone that has been runing the Castle 4600Kv and where they were on their real world gearing.
I think WYD also used to run Acedemy in a GV2, so maybe he'll offer up some advice as well.
22p/83s= 9.13FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -66%")
20p/83s=10.04FDR (website says: "Slightly under geared by -82.55%")
The website recommends 5.5FDR or 37p/83s=5.43FDR ("Slightly over geared by 1.27%")
Like I said; I have used the site before and it does seam to provide reasonable gearing for the Novak motors... but it appears that the the castle gearing is way out in left field. IDK, but there is a big difference from a 5.5FDR to a 9-10FDR and at a 5.5FDR I would think you would be looking at a motor melt down. I'm not bashing the site & I do use it. Just be aware to take the information with a grain of salt.
Anyway, I guess I got some of what I was looking for: someone that has been runing the Castle 4600Kv and where they were on their real world gearing.
I think WYD also used to run Acedemy in a GV2, so maybe he'll offer up some advice as well.
#3504
WYd originally gave me a starting point which was around 23/83. A kid that used to run an Academy at my track advised me to run 22/83, but he was running a Tekin motor.
22/83 worked and the temps were 130 esc, 125 motor,but I was turning down the Epa. With the 20p, acceleration is so much smoother and I'm pretty pumped to get it on the track. Track I'm at - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COwxcT2LQHQ
For reference, without the EPA turned downed I wasn't topping out on the straight until more then 7/8's of the way down it. Things got hairy at times haha. Especially when they took out the sweeper and put in a hair pin !
22/83 worked and the temps were 130 esc, 125 motor,but I was turning down the Epa. With the 20p, acceleration is so much smoother and I'm pretty pumped to get it on the track. Track I'm at - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COwxcT2LQHQ
For reference, without the EPA turned downed I wasn't topping out on the straight until more then 7/8's of the way down it. Things got hairy at times haha. Especially when they took out the sweeper and put in a hair pin !
#3505
Cool video. I actually have been to that track. Didn't race, just watched and turn marshalled a few heats. Did some work at the General Mills/Progresso plant in Vineland and was there over the weekend, so like I often do when I'm traveling... had to go check out the local RC scene
#3506
Jw Rooster - Was wondering if you use the leads that came with Rfi lipos to run the car. Was just reading the thread about the Reedy batteries where the included lead is only capable of being used to charge the batteries (causing failure if used otherwise). I have been using the included deans lead to run, and now want to make sure its designed for that.
#3507
Jw Rooster - Was wondering if you use the leads that came with Rfi lipos to run the car. Was just reading the thread about the Reedy batteries where the included lead is only capable of being used to charge the batteries (causing failure if used otherwise). I have been using the included deans lead to run, and now want to make sure its designed for that.
#3508
I have used them when I was borrowing a friend's speedo that was equipped with deans and they worked fine. I only used them a couple of times, but no issues. I normally use the bullet type connector wired straight to the speedo. I don't know why it would hurt anything, but you might want to get a hold of Tim@MRC just to be sure if you feel uneasy about it.
#3510
I assumed that was the case but got me thinking when I saw some problems popping up. I think the Reedy ones do state it but requires some reading of the manual, which most people don't. The RFI's didn't really come with a manual, just a slip that had basic Lipo care.