Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.
Question for you guys that are experienced with motor/batt combos as I'm just trying to piece all this together;
I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.
Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.
Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
Tech Master
iTrader: (27)
Has anyone successfully used a Kyosho spur on the center diff of the RC8 without it leaking? I built the diff according to the RCPD instructions with brand new o-rings and seals, but the thing leaks like crazy. It also is very tight. The Kyosho gear doesn't allow the rear support bearing to slide on far enough and this creates the need for all the funky shimming inside the diff. Has anyone tried using a Kyosho diff in the center of the RC8?
fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.
the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.
you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
Question for you guys that are experienced with motor/batt combos as I'm just trying to piece all this together;
I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.
Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.
Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
Like RCM Mikes
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...72&postcount=1
Id say a 1509 2.5Y to run well. but then again I havent ran either in a buggy
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
your over filling the diff. (fill it to the cross hairs. )
fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.
the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.
you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.
the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.
you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
Thanks for the help guys.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
your over filling the diff. (fill it to the cross hairs. )
fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.
the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.
you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.
the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.
you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
Tech Rookie
I just ran my Losi 8ight-t conversion for the first time and what a blast it was. The only issue I had, and it's a big one, was that the battery came loose from my strap and it looks like I damaged the cell. It shows some copper where the damage is and it smells funny in that area as well. With Lipo's being so testy I'm really paranoid about using that pack again. I have a couple of questions about where to go from here that I hope people can help me out with.
1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here
2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here
2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Tech Legend
iTrader: (294)
I just ran my Losi 8ight-t conversion for the first time and what a blast it was. The only issue I had, and it's a big one, was that the battery came loose from my strap and it looks like I damaged the cell. It shows some copper where the damage is and it smells funny in that area as well. With Lipo's being so testy I'm really paranoid about using that pack again. I have a couple of questions about where to go from here that I hope people can help me out with.
1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here
2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here
2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (6)
1. Discharge to 2.5V per cell or less
2. Fill bucket with enough water to submerge the battery
3. Add salt to the water until no more salt will disolve.
4. Place battery in the bucket for 24 hours
5. Remove battery from water and test voltage
6. If voltage does not read 0.0 volts re-submerge and re-test until it reads 0.0 volts
7. Once battery reads 0.0 volts it is safe to dispose
Hi Kufman
The spur gear on the car is the one that came with the RCP conversion kit.
The spur gear on the car is the one that came with the RCP conversion kit.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (25)
So has anyone heard any news about AEs kit? I was talking to Saxton today about the service pack and he was hinting about a battery, ESC, and motor for the 8, 8t, and SC8...he didnt say anything else...