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Old 10-04-2008, 12:54 PM
  #10561  
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Question for you guys that are experienced with motor/batt combos as I'm just trying to piece all this together;

I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.

Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
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Old 10-04-2008, 12:58 PM
  #10562  
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Originally Posted by kufman
Has anyone successfully used a Kyosho spur on the center diff of the RC8 without it leaking? I built the diff according to the RCPD instructions with brand new o-rings and seals, but the thing leaks like crazy. It also is very tight. The Kyosho gear doesn't allow the rear support bearing to slide on far enough and this creates the need for all the funky shimming inside the diff. Has anyone tried using a Kyosho diff in the center of the RC8?
your over filling the diff. (fill it to the cross hairs. )

fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.

the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.

you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
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Old 10-04-2008, 12:59 PM
  #10563  
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Originally Posted by bread
Question for you guys that are experienced with motor/batt combos as I'm just trying to piece all this together;

I'm thinking about a Neu 1509 2y on 6S for 1/8 buggy track use. I'd like to keep it light so I'm thinking a 3kmah batt. My very rusty math tells me the Neu @ 750continuous -1500peak Watts @ 6S will pull 34-68 amps and a 3kmah 20c-30c pack will keep up with 60A continuous and 90A peak draw and be good for about 10min on the track.

Does this sound about right or will I run into issues with only a 3k batt? Any of you guys using the eagle tree stuff or other to see what your amp draw really is?
I dont think the 2Y is the best choice for a buggy. Im running a 2Y on 5s in my Super EXT crt.5

Like RCM Mikes

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...72&postcount=1

Id say a 1509 2.5Y to run well. but then again I havent ran either in a buggy
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:56 PM
  #10564  
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Originally Posted by chewiefttc4
your over filling the diff. (fill it to the cross hairs. )

fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.

the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.

you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
How tight will it be? Mine is tight enough that I can barely make the diff work with my hands. Is that too tight? Also, what is the modification that is done to the Kyosho gear to make it work with the Associated diff? I bought my car used and I am assuming that the gear is the one that came with the RCPD conversion, but I am not totally sure of that.

Thanks for the help guys.
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:58 PM
  #10565  
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Originally Posted by TimNJ
My center diff leaked at first with the Kyosho spur, so I took it apart again and used RTV to seal it and it hasn't leaked a drop since. Yup, when you shim the diff, it'll be tight at first, but it should loosen up.
Did you also use the diff gasket? or just RTV? Thanks.
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Old 10-04-2008, 01:59 PM
  #10566  
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Originally Posted by chewiefttc4
your over filling the diff. (fill it to the cross hairs. )

fill it up to the cross hairs. it will still slightly leak. but it shouldnt be horrible.

the tightness will go away.. but you HAVE to shim it the way i an dan specified.

you could use the steel spur and have no leakage but at the cost of wore pinion gears and loud gear noise.
Like I said before, the hardened pinion, when meshed properly have shown no signs of wear and are almost silent...
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:05 PM
  #10567  
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88
Like I said before, the hardened pinion, when meshed properly have shown no signs of wear and are almost silent...

What brand of pinion do you use?
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Old 10-04-2008, 02:30 PM
  #10568  
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Originally Posted by trdsupra88
Like I said before, the hardened pinion, when meshed properly have shown no signs of wear and are almost silent...
I will second that

I use Rc monster pinions. Work awesome, never had any issues!
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Old 10-04-2008, 03:57 PM
  #10569  
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I just ran my Losi 8ight-t conversion for the first time and what a blast it was. The only issue I had, and it's a big one, was that the battery came loose from my strap and it looks like I damaged the cell. It shows some copper where the damage is and it smells funny in that area as well. With Lipo's being so testy I'm really paranoid about using that pack again. I have a couple of questions about where to go from here that I hope people can help me out with.

1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here


2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Old 10-04-2008, 03:58 PM
  #10570  
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Originally Posted by kufman
Did you also use the diff gasket? or just RTV? Thanks.
Just a really thin bead of RTV.
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:29 PM
  #10571  
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Originally Posted by Johnny9r
I just ran my Losi 8ight-t conversion for the first time and what a blast it was. The only issue I had, and it's a big one, was that the battery came loose from my strap and it looks like I damaged the cell. It shows some copper where the damage is and it smells funny in that area as well. With Lipo's being so testy I'm really paranoid about using that pack again. I have a couple of questions about where to go from here that I hope people can help me out with.

1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here


2. Does anyone have any recommendations for a Hard Case 4c 6000mha pack that will fit in the RC products design tray? I would rather spend a few bucks more and get the hard case and not run into the problem again.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.
tehre isn't a 4S hardcased lipo available at this time. only hardcased 4S lipo out that I know of is the losi 4S 5000mah lipo. you can get them for 190 shipped from ultimatehobbies.
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:31 PM
  #10572  
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Originally Posted by TimNJ
Just a really thin bead of RTV.
Did you build your RC8 conversion, motor mount and all?
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Old 10-04-2008, 04:44 PM
  #10573  
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Originally Posted by Johnny9r
...
1. How do I dispose of the Lipo safely? I don't have a discharge rig anywhere but I thought I read somewhere you could dead short it in a bucket of water. Sounds crazy to me but I was hoping for some info here
...
From the package on my Venom lipos
1. Discharge to 2.5V per cell or less
2. Fill bucket with enough water to submerge the battery
3. Add salt to the water until no more salt will disolve.
4. Place battery in the bucket for 24 hours
5. Remove battery from water and test voltage
6. If voltage does not read 0.0 volts re-submerge and re-test until it reads 0.0 volts
7. Once battery reads 0.0 volts it is safe to dispose
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Old 10-04-2008, 05:00 PM
  #10574  
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Hi Kufman

The spur gear on the car is the one that came with the RCP conversion kit.
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Old 10-04-2008, 05:36 PM
  #10575  
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So has anyone heard any news about AEs kit? I was talking to Saxton today about the service pack and he was hinting about a battery, ESC, and motor for the 8, 8t, and SC8...he didnt say anything else...
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