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Old 04-18-2008, 09:03 PM
  #5311  
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Anyone ever see the Mamba Max catch on fire??...well, I got to see that in the middle of my 3rd qualifier in running in 1st tonight. I was lucky that my motor and lipo was fine. All of the soldered connections came off the board. This MM smells like burning money. What would've caused this... a short?
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:56 PM
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Unhappy mm fire

if your overgeared it will or if the mesh got tight puts a extra load on mm.I ran mine with a fan and never got over 110 after 5 min and with hole mod and 1 fan newer software helps too you need the 1.17 update,also if a bearing goes bad in motor you will fry one.
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Fuzzchop
if your overgeared it will or if the mesh got tight puts a extra load on mm.I ran mine with a fan and never got over 110 after 5 min and with hole mod and 1 fan newer software helps too you need the 1.17 update,also if a bearing goes bad in motor you will fry one.
I am running a 1512 1.5d. I have only had it for about a month. Only running a 11T with 46 spur. I don't believe the mesh was tight. I have overheated the speed control before when the fan quit working. Instead of thermalling this time, it just went up in smoke.
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:19 AM
  #5314  
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Looking for advice, I have a Kyosho Sp2 with a Novak HV 4500. I don't race it at this time and I am looking for the best run time and heat control. Here is my question, I have 7.4 2S 25C batteries, should I run them in the 14.4v or the 7.4 volt configuration? When I first did the conversion I was in the standard two battery config. and the buggy was almost uncontrolable and got very hot. I then went to the single input config(7.4) and ran the two batteries in parallel, it tamed it down and the system does not overhest. At this point I just want to drive it on the track and looking at best run times. Thanks for any inputs.

2 x 7.4v 4400mah in series for 14.4v 4400mah or
2 x 7.4v 4400mah in parallel for 7.4v 8800mah
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:45 AM
  #5315  
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Originally Posted by SeanF
Anyone ever see the Mamba Max catch on fire??...well, I got to see that in the middle of my 3rd qualifier in running in 1st tonight. I was lucky that my motor and lipo was fine. All of the soldered connections came off the board. This MM smells like burning money. What would've caused this... a short?
Sure, I've seen it. I just posted a pic of mine after it toasted.

I don't think I got even one comment on it though.

I had holes all in my case. Even had a great big hole in the bottom big enough for a 25mm fan to blow into.

Also had 2 fans going. One one the bottom and one on the heatsink. It still smoked in a short time.

If my Mamba was ok to start with I can't see how these guys are getting consistent 20-30 minute runs.

Mine only lasted a total of seven runs. Four runs in the street and three at the track and she was gone.
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:46 AM
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Default 1/8 novak

I would not run the pack as 14.4 novak will thermal and needs extra cooling 11.1 lipo would be best of both fast yet controllable to bad you already have 7.4 packs you could make them 8.4 or 9.6 by adding some cells. to go faster without heating it up.
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:51 AM
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Default mm fire

2 weeks ago a e eight flames up battery and motor was fine wires melted off speedo and fets melted to heatsink and heatsinkk fell off mesh was to tight in warmup laps!car was fine for weeks then someone told him his geraring was a bit loose then he made it to tight loaded 1512 1.5 up and poof flames he had a fan too no thermal just fire.
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Old 04-19-2008, 05:06 AM
  #5318  
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Fuzz, thanks for the response. My 7.4 are lipo's so not much options there to add a cell. I will look into a couple of 3s batteries. Will I have troubles with power to the receiver with the 11.1? Easy enough to install a 5cell rec. pack if need be. Thanks again
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:22 AM
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So I am thinking about buying a Neu 1512 2.5d (2050kv) for my rc8 to replace my 1.5d which I love because I am finding the motor to be too high strung and I figure this motor won't tax the ESC as much either. Are any of you running the 2.5d motor and how is the performance?

My concern is I have a bunch of 4s lipos and I am afraid that if I gear the motor up to run about 45 mph on 4s lipo, I am going to overheat the motor and have the same heat issues with my 1.5d. I would have to run about 18/46 in my RC8. In other words, I want the motor, but I really don't want to drop another couple hundred to get some 5s lipo packs either.

Thanks.
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:43 AM
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Originally Posted by SeanF
Anyone ever see the Mamba Max catch on fire??...well, I got to see that in the middle of my 3rd qualifier in running in 1st tonight. I was lucky that my motor and lipo was fine. All of the soldered connections came off the board. This MM smells like burning money. What would've caused this... a short?


Thats exactly what happened to my MM. There were LOTS of flames on mine. All of the wires came of as well. I think maybe one of my fans shorted out. I was very luck that the battery did not go up with it. If that had happened I don't think I would have had a car left.

David
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Edumakated
So I am thinking about buying a Neu 1512 2.5d (2050kv) for my rc8 to replace my 1.5d which I love because I am finding the motor to be too high strung and I figure this motor won't tax the ESC as much either. Are any of you running the 2.5d motor and how is the performance?

My concern is I have a bunch of 4s lipos and I am afraid that if I gear the motor up to run about 45 mph on 4s lipo, I am going to overheat the motor and have the same heat issues with my 1.5d. I would have to run about 18/46 in my RC8. In other words, I want the motor, but I really don't want to drop another couple hundred to get some 5s lipo packs either.

Thanks.
I run the 2.5D when I had the MBX5, and Badassrevo runs the 2.5D in his losi 8ight. I would say it feels like a really good nitro motor. The punch on the lowend is also very controllable too. I would say the only time you see a weakness is on a track with a very long straight, so you may find yourself really gearing up to top out right about 3/4 down it. (say a 200ft straight). But other than that, the motor was excellent, and I think it draws less amps too if I recall correctly.

You may want to look instead at the 2D if you are concerned about power in the way I described above. the 2D still is a bit of a power pig however.

You guys see that new E-Revo from traxxas? The big thing there, sealed battery compartment! VERY curious as what packs can fit in there, and how will ROAR address it as just like receiver battery lipos, its now in a case.
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Old 04-19-2008, 07:40 AM
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Great, I'm not the only one that has seen their $1500 car on fire!
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:17 AM
  #5323  
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Originally Posted by bando711
Looking for advice, I have a Kyosho Sp2 with a Novak HV 4500. I don't race it at this time and I am looking for the best run time and heat control. Here is my question, I have 7.4 2S 25C batteries, should I run them in the 14.4v or the 7.4 volt configuration? When I first did the conversion I was in the standard two battery config. and the buggy was almost uncontrolable and got very hot. I then went to the single input config(7.4) and ran the two batteries in parallel, it tamed it down and the system does not overhest. At this point I just want to drive it on the track and looking at best run times. Thanks for any inputs.

2 x 7.4v 4400mah in series for 14.4v 4400mah or
2 x 7.4v 4400mah in parallel for 7.4v 8800mah
If the speed is OK running your batteries in parallel, there is no reason not to. If it is too slow for you, you could go for 3S batteries - if you do this, weigh up the cost of another system against batteries. For a couple of hundred bucks you could have a solid system that performs well and won't thermal (something to think about depending on what the batteries will cost...).
An UBEC could be a better idea than a receiver pack too, they weigh next to nothing and are quite cheap.

Originally Posted by Edumakated
So I am thinking about buying a Neu 1512 2.5d (2050kv) for my rc8 to replace my 1.5d which I love because I am finding the motor to be too high strung and I figure this motor won't tax the ESC as much either. Are any of you running the 2.5d motor and how is the performance?

My concern is I have a bunch of 4s lipos and I am afraid that if I gear the motor up to run about 45 mph on 4s lipo, I am going to overheat the motor and have the same heat issues with my 1.5d. I would have to run about 18/46 in my RC8. In other words, I want the motor, but I really don't want to drop another couple hundred to get some 5s lipo packs either.

Thanks.
The use of such a large pinion shouldn't matter all that much, what really matters is the final drive ratio - and with the lower internal gearing in the RC8 it will be equivalent to ~13/46 in most other buggies.

Originally Posted by Cain
You guys see that new E-Revo from traxxas? The big thing there, sealed battery compartment! VERY curious as what packs can fit in there, and how will ROAR address it as just like receiver battery lipos, its now in a case.
Some very good ideas in that vehicle, but the main thing that got my attention was the dual brushed titans. How many people are going to leave them in there? Why does it have to be 'brushless ready'? Why not just 'brushless'?! They will probably still sell truckloads, but imagine what could have been...
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:23 AM
  #5324  
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I run the 2.5D in my RC8 16/44 gearing and love it. I can run a full pack off without a heat problem.... I am going to be running with nitros so need to do a battery swap half way to make the mains, no worries here about heat and I don't use a fan on my esc... 4s 5K packs. 5K in all the difs... I haven't been able to "race" yet, but I have been on a few tracks running against other vehicles. on a long straight it might not be the fastest rc out there, though I can stay with most rb's and such and infield power and torque is hands down better. straight stretch is only 4 seconds of a 40 second lap, there are many places on the infield to make back that 1 second
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:57 AM
  #5325  
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Originally Posted by lutach
Tekin Prez,

Will you be making one for us HV guys who likes to keep the AMPs down? I just finished all the lower chassis designs for my 1/8 scale kits and finding an HV ESC for them is getting difficult.

Regards.

Nothing above 6s in the works currently. However if that is where the market goes we will make one.

Originally Posted by Cornelius
Slick looking video, just the right amount of flashiness. It is a pity about the youtube curse of crappy resolution, but at least we get to see it.

Are you testing the ESC in a buggy aswell as the truggy? Reports from people who had/have both suggest the ESC's are pushed harder in buggies.
We had a buggy at the race as well. They are geared about the same, but we did have a smaller 1512 in the buggy. We see more runtime in the buggy indicating a lighter average load. The truggy has such large tires that it really puts it to the ground and that is what draws the big short term power.... unless the tires pizza cutter so bad there is not much tire actually touching the ground. We find the Truggy to be the larger load, but with high bite, an aggressive driving style and the better rotation in the corners of the buggy you can lean on it pretty hard. The fast stops and starts can really add up.

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