macr0w

Ok, here I go quoting myself again.

I know for a fact that we have people on here using this same combo.

So what kind of pinions are you using?

glassdoctor

iTrader: (4)

Don't take this the wrong way, but I don't get why guys are running the high kv motors that require a 10-11t pinion. IMO the 2D is the hottest wind that should be run in a buggy.... and the 2.5D is ideal (for 4s lipo).

Back in the day we were running the high kv motors like the Hacker C50 Maxx and Pletty Max etc... and we had to run small pinions and/or larger spurs like the 51t ofna etc to get the ratios right. But now it's no secret that you don't have to go that route. The "slow" motors, geared like a nitro or taller... work great with a stock nitro gearing.

I know that the ratios are different with some cars so the same motor won't always be geared the same, but the basic idea imo would be to shoot for a standard nitro 13-15 tooth setup. The 1512 can handle a tall gear so if you can't get a 10-11 to work... just run 12 or whatever does work. It will only be faster.

Off the soap box....

happywing

iTrader: (93)

A lot of guys are/were running higher Kv motors to reduce Mamba Max cogging. With the Neu, the 2.5d with a bigger pinion would cog more than the 1.5d with a small pinion. It doesn't matter now with the new firmware, but Neu motors are expensive, so a lot of people are stuck with what they have. I like the 2d at 2550Kv on 4s in a buggy. The 2.5d is now a good choice too. The 1.5d is just too hot.

macr0w

Thanks for the comments guys. I understand all of your points.

My only concern is clearance when using the RC Monster mount. I just wondered if anyone that is using the RCM mount has had trouble with clearance when trying to use a small pinion. And if so how did they solve the problem?

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

OK guys, this is the 3rd and last time I'll ask this question without getting any input. See if anyone has any experience with it.....

Is anyone using super thin dif oil in the center dif to act as a psuedo slipper vibe? or even no dif fluid at all and going with grease?

markhat250

iTrader: (65)

I'm getting ready for my Truggy 8T build and wondering to myself what will be the perfect battery for it.

I'm thinking MaxAmps 4S 8000. Anyone object, or does this seem cool. When I say best, I don't really mean expensive, just best bang for buck. I have a 4S 6000 in my 8 Buggy and it's served pretty decent. What are your thoughts. I want as big as I can go without being too big.

ldzielak

iTrader: (2)

Well I had planed on using a MMM and their 1550KV motor in my 8ight-T conversion. But now they are only going to be releasing the 2200KV motor. I will be using a TP6s5000 pack, so I guess I'll be looking for a NEU 1515/1.5Y and just get the MMM when it is released. What is the smallest pinion I can get to match the 46T spur in the www.rcproductdesigns.com conversion? Or can I get a bigger spur and try the CC 2200kv motor? Or does a bigger spur not fit the motor mount?

The NEU was not planned in the original budget, but I alread have the race roller in my hands and the conversion on order so their is no stopping now....

Lee

Kings Kid

iTrader: (35)

I run 7-5-10 front to rear. Didn't see a difference from running 10,000 in the center. Just more front grip.

DJ1978

iTrader: (3)

I just run the standard 5/7/2000 F/C/R and it seems fine.
I am definitely not a diff oil expert.. Maybe Tony Screws can chime in as well as other experienced Nitro racers like Doug.

sylv456

Hi all,
The electro 8ight is my first 1/8 car so I basically us the standard "Drake" setup on it. If you have the same car, could you tell me what you changed in this setup when you converted to electro?
Thanks

lxmuff

Most people I know around here started with that setup and made minor if any, like diff fluid changes.

Edumakated

iTrader: (19)

I took my rc8 to Leisure yesterday and it worked great. None of the nitro buggies could keep up with it at half throttle on the straights and 3s with the 1512 1.5d was more than enough power on the indoor track. Given I can't drive worth a crap being new to this, it was probably still too much for me, but I am getting used to it. It was funny seeing the people gawk at it. "When did Team Associated come out with a electric RC8?"

The acceleration is sick. They put a set of three doubles in front of the driver's stand that people take one at a time. I bet I could clear the entire set with just a four/five foot run up with the acceleration I am getting.

The quark ran super smooth, no cogging and barely got warm. The 3s 8000 pack held up just fine too.

Of course, I clipped a wall and broke the hub carrier and a-arm. I had the brakes set too low and the suspension seem a bit soft.

Lovin It. Can't wait till I get decent enough to actually race it.

tomdav

iTrader: (44)

I have a neu 1512 1.5 d/f in the for sale forum. NIB

badassrevo

iTrader: (12)

Is it a 1512 or a 1515?

xtremelimits285

iTrader: (1)

Your best bet is to run the 2200kv that comes with the MMM, e.i. i have a 2200kv(1515 1y) an on 4s its very fast with 15/46t gearing, hen i ran 4s i ran a 11/46t an 13/46t gearing for the race track.... anything more is useless,e.i. u would have to set ur EPA to 80-90% when running 15/46t , 16/46t, or higher......

btw i see u want to run 6s,WHY,what are u planning to do with ur truggy?

i tryed 5s the other day with 11/46t but first ran 15/46t, 15/46t was just too much topend, my tires came unglued an looked like a dragster,lol.....
WOW O MY GOD/HOLY Crap...lol....
my truggy on 5s was balistic, was fast, 50+mph, and pulled wheelies when ever i wanted, an could flip rite over at ANY SPEED......
5s is more then the truggy can put down, it fun on pavment, but for offroad its useless...

6s would be insaine, it will just want too wheelie even with a smooth triger finger...

trust me, 3s geared 15/46t-16/46t is able to run with nitros, but will get up to speed quicker.... great for offroad racing...

4s geared 11/46t-13/46t is awsome for offroad racing, it smokes nitro trugys... 4s geared 15/46t-16/46t is basicly too much for offroad, but awsome for onroad....

5s geared 11/46t is balistic, u really can use it for racing offroad, it can be done but it will be all over the place,sidewayz, an wheelieing... now 5s on 15/46t is not useable for offroad, onroad its balistic with control u can drive a wheelie for 100ft+ an thats not even useing full trigger, maybey 70%....

So if u really want to run 6s the only thing it will be good for is top speed runs, it will be useless trying to drive let alone race offroad....
5s is the highest for a 1515 2200kv type motor, an will still be driveable.....4s is perfect for offroad/an onroad,btw u can gear up more on 4s or 5s if speed is what ur after, an the higher u gear these brushless motors the more torque ull have, gearing a 4s to 18/46t-24/46t, will run as fast as a 6s, ur better off getting a 4s or 5s pack.....




now as for diffs, for Truggys the stock 7k-front,10k-middle,5k-rear, works good with our brushless/lipo....
An for Buggys 5k-front,7k-middle,3k-rear, seems to be the best...
only change that some guys like is putting 3-2k fluid in the rear for truggys to help rear grip....

80% of us like an keep the stock fluid, in or 8's an 8T's


btw guys my truggy ran cool on 5s/it didnt thermal till 20mins, about the smae as it does on my 3s pack.... this has me stumped, it runs good on 5s an 3s but not 4s..

me an my friend have been talking it over, an the only thing we think it could be, is my old 4s pack must have had a bad cell for along time/basicly since i got the pack, so this mite be why i was running hot on 4s, my friend lives 1hr away, hes comeing over this weeked or next an bringing his 8ight an 4s 6000 pack,an im going to try his pack an if it runs cool well know it must been my old 4s pack.... but since it runs cool on 5s im pretty sure it will run fine on 4s.... now i never noticed my 4s pack being bad till 2 weeks ago, but it looks like it was bad, an running the mm/motor hot was what it did....Now that i know this i mite buy a 4s pack,insted of getting another 3s pack...