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Old 06-19-2010, 02:36 PM
  #19696  
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Originally Posted by zen
neesh, you can use the one I made for the d8t. I can open up the middle for clearence if you need. Right now only cut out for the spur gear, but only easy to opean it up more. The other alumminum plate was from rc products but has no notch that I can see for the spur gear. Let me know.
It does have a notch for th spur.
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:41 PM
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I sure hope the new aluminum torque rod stiffens up the rear of the chassis a bunch, because I found that I cracked my motor mount in two places! This is not the fault of the Z01-B but mine! When I did the conversion to brushless I removed about two thirds of the radio/servo tray that I’m sure acts as a chassis stiffer running the length of the chassis, this allowed the rear of the chassis to flex up and hit the back of the motor. In all of the other conversions I have done I was able to have custom battery/esc trays made that bolted to the chassis replacing the bracing effect lost by removing the radio trays, but this time Dan over at RC Products Designs is moving his shop so he won’t be doing any custom design work for about a month. So I had to use what I could find that would fit…sort of. The tray I used is the RC8e conversion tray and it’s flimsy at best adding no stiffness to the chassis. On the bright side I was planning to change the motor mount anyway. When I built the buggy everyone was out of the Kyosho MP9E motor mount that fits the Z01-B almost perfect and is a machined T7075 aluminum unit, so I used the motor mount that goes in the Kyosho VE RTR. It’s a cheap cast POS but all I could find at the time. As luck would have it my backordered MP9E motor mount showed up at the mail box today! The parts for the rear torque rod should be in by the first of the week, but even with that I’m going to hedge my bet by using shorter Medusa motors until Dan can make a custom tray for my buggy.
Ain’t we got fun!!!!
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Old 06-20-2010, 05:22 PM
  #19698  
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Default E D8t conversion.

Thinking about entering E truggy. Do you think this collection of parts should get me on the right track.

-D8t
-DE Mud guards
-Tekin RX8/ 2000kv
-RCM Battery Tray
-Hitec 7955 servo.
-AKA Soft Ibeams
-Long HB shock eyelets on rear for extra droop
-M2C front and rear inner hinge pins
-Mugen front and rear outer hinge pins
-Kyosho MP9 sway bars, only if my bars come mismatched right?
-Turnigy 5800 4s Lipo (yes I know this is the nitro thread but ya'll know the D8t so well.)
-15t RP pinion gear (35mph?) Stock nitro pinion is 13, usually 2000kv needs 2 more teeth
-slightly stiffer blue front springs
-Elite Rc motor mount.
-Mugen Steering rod ends

That should be al the trick mods right? Deos the truck come with 1.2x6 pistons? Is 1.1x10 or 1.2x8 available? Overdrive front gear?
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:44 AM
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Anyone know of a hobby shop that is capable of shipping an order the next day? I was doing business with My Atomic because of the free shipping on orders over $25.00 But that has been negated by their progressively slow shipping, my last order took almost a week to ship and I don’t mean to my door I mean to leave theirs! I don’t mind paying a fair price for shipping if it is done in a timely manner. And I don’t think $9.00 to ship a $1.00 item that would fit in an envelope is fair shipping rate. Or maybe wanting timely shipping at a fair rate is just asking for too much!
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by georgec
Anyone know of a hobby shop that is capable of shipping an order the next day? I was doing business with My Atomic because of the free shipping on orders over $25.00 But that has been negated by their progressively slow shipping, my last order took almost a week to ship and I don’t mean to my door I mean to leave theirs! I don’t mind paying a fair price for shipping if it is done in a timely manner. And I don’t think $9.00 to ship a $1.00 item that would fit in an envelope is fair shipping rate. Or maybe wanting timely shipping at a fair rate is just asking for too much!
www.bluegrasshobbies.com

if you don't see it on his site call him up. He can get it.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:19 AM
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absolutehobbyz.com
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Zerodefect
Thinking about entering E truggy. Do you think this collection of parts should get me on the right track.

-D8t
-DE Mud guards
-Tekin RX8/ 2000kv
-RCM Battery Tray
-Hitec 7955 servo.
-AKA Soft Ibeams
-Long HB shock eyelets on rear for extra droop
-M2C front and rear inner hinge pins
-Mugen front and rear outer hinge pins
-Kyosho MP9 sway bars, only if my bars come mismatched right?
-Turnigy 5800 4s Lipo (yes I know this is the nitro thread but ya'll know the D8t so well.)
-15t RP pinion gear (35mph?) Stock nitro pinion is 13, usually 2000kv needs 2 more teeth
-slightly stiffer blue front springs
-Elite Rc motor mount.
-Mugen Steering rod ends

That should be al the trick mods right? Deos the truck come with 1.2x6 pistons? Is 1.1x10 or 1.2x8 available? Overdrive front gear?
You'll need the RCM RX/Servo box too.

I'm running a D8T conversion that used a lot of Vorza parts. I have a thread in here on the build, check it out. Something to consider is changing the front drive axle to the double jointed one. It will last longer than the stock unit. I'm running a 15T pinion, and it runs well. There is another option for the outer hinge pins that doesn't cost as much as the M2C. Search the Vorza thread for info on this.

ben
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Old 06-23-2010, 07:22 AM
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I would suggest to use T-Bone Skids instead of DE ones. T-Bone is much more beefier and more durable.
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Old 06-23-2010, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by adrictan
I would suggest to use T-Bone Skids instead of DE ones. T-Bone is much more beefier and more durable.
+1
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Old 06-23-2010, 10:20 AM
  #19705  
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Originally Posted by georgec
+1
+2 I have been running the t-bone racing skids for some time now and they are holding up great.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:03 PM
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Originally Posted by bring it on
+2 I have been running the t-bone racing skids for some time now and they are holding up great.
They must have changed the material to get reviews like that. Every single one I bought broke, T-3 f/r, T-4 f/r, B-44 f/r. Sure they replaced them but after a few I just gave up.

I have DE on my Hypers and my daughters 777s and they are good to go.
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by bring it on
+2 I have been running the t-bone racing skids for some time now and they are holding up great.
+3
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Old 06-23-2010, 12:37 PM
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I've had the t-bones on a D8/D8T/Z01-B and all held up very well! Another thing I like about the T-bones is how far the front skid comes back on the chassis unlike the DE!
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:39 PM
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If you have both like me, you can compare the wear rate. DE ones wear like crazy. Becomes Wafer-thin.
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Old 06-24-2010, 02:52 AM
  #19710  
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Originally Posted by adrictan
I would suggest to use T-Bone Skids instead of DE ones. T-Bone is much more beefier and more durable.
and better fitting as well
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