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Old 03-20-2009, 07:45 PM
  #15721  
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Exclamation HELP!!! How to remove the NEU endbell????

Can anyone please explain how to remove the endbell off a NEU motor (1512)?

A wet practice day resulted in a lot of mud taking up residence inside the motor and I need to clean it out to see if it can be salvaged
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:06 PM
  #15722  
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remove the endbell screws of course. then take a small screw driver with a somewhat sharp tip and place it between the endbell and the can, then "tap" screwdriver with a hammer. be careful and work your way around the can. it will eventually come loose. then just pry it the rest of the way off. take your time, they use some really stiff glue.
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Old 03-20-2009, 08:20 PM
  #15723  
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Originally Posted by superlapS15
Can anyone please explain how to remove the endbell off a NEU motor (1512)?

A wet practice day resulted in a lot of mud taking up residence inside the motor and I need to clean it out to see if it can be salvaged
Can you post a picture? The neu's have gone through running changes in how the endbells come off.
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:42 PM
  #15724  
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It looks like there are some sort of rivets in place, not screws.

The motor is about 18 months old- 1512 2D/F.
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-img_3801.jpg   Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-img_3804.jpg  
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Old 03-20-2009, 09:52 PM
  #15725  
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Originally Posted by superlapS15
It looks like there are some sort of rivets in place, not screws.

The motor is about 18 months old- 1512 2D/F.
The older ones like yours had pins.... newer ones have screws. You will have to drive out the pins, and then break loose the glue as mentioned.

I drilled out the pins and tapped for 3mm screws, after my motor came apart.
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Old 03-20-2009, 10:03 PM
  #15726  
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Originally Posted by glassdoctor
The older ones like yours had pins.... newer ones have screws. You will have to drive out the pins, and then break loose the glue as mentioned.

I drilled out the pins and tapped for 3mm screws, after my motor came apart.
Thanks Glassdoctor! Hopefully the motor can be salvaged.
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Old 03-21-2009, 06:03 AM
  #15727  
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I finally have most of my project parts for my Losi Truggy e-conversion. Just a couple more questions.

1. I bought 2 of the SMC 4100 24C packs and was wondering how to wire them to get the 14.8 volts. Keep in mind I have 2 2-cell packs and they have the Deans plugs on them now. I am open to suggestions and if I did wire them in series is it okay to charge them as one pack or would I still charge them as two separate packs?

2. Also, there is lots of space in the battery tray with the 2 packs in there. Any ideas on where to get hard foam cheap to prevent the batteries from moving? Maybe a arts and craft store, any suggestions?
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Old 03-21-2009, 07:58 AM
  #15728  
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You solder it up with two plugs and a jumperwire that goes from the first plug's + to the second's - poles.

The charging can be done as one pack but you will then need a balance wire set that make the correct connections.

this site can show how to do it all: http://www.scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/index.html


For that foam, no idea as i'm on the other side of the globe
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:03 AM
  #15729  
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Originally Posted by Ty
I finally have most of my project parts for my Losi Truggy e-conversion. Just a couple more questions.

1. I bought 2 of the SMC 4100 24C packs and was wondering how to wire them to get the 14.8 volts. Keep in mind I have 2 2-cell packs and they have the Deans plugs on them now. I am open to suggestions and if I did wire them in series is it okay to charge them as one pack or would I still charge them as two separate packs?

2. Also, there is lots of space in the battery tray with the 2 packs in there. Any ideas on where to get hard foam cheap to prevent the batteries from moving? Maybe a arts and craft store, any suggestions?
which conversion are you using?
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Old 03-21-2009, 08:15 AM
  #15730  
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Wich chassis brace will work on a RC-Monster chassis'ed RC8T?

i dont like the turn-buckles type it has now.

Will associated's aluminium ones work?

FT RC8T Aluminum Chassis Brace, front
#89378




FT RC8T Aluminum Chassis Brace, rear
#89379



My beast:



OMG hot nude pic here!!!

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Old 03-21-2009, 11:51 AM
  #15731  
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Originally Posted by Cain
which conversion are you using?
I am using the Losi conversion.
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Old 03-21-2009, 12:21 PM
  #15732  
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Originally Posted by UK.hardcore
Wich chassis brace will work on a RC-Monster chassis'ed RC8T?

i dont like the turn-buckles type it has now.

Will associated's aluminium ones work?

I have the kings headz ones and they work fine. On the rear brace there is a counter sink for a flathead srew that is on the wrong side of the prace, but I just installed it that way and its been no problem. Id imagine the AE aluminum nes would work just fine too. The stock blue ones bend way to easy.

Heres a few pics for ya. Crappy Iphone camera so the quality isnt great but you get the idea.





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Old 03-21-2009, 12:58 PM
  #15733  
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Hi, Jhautz, I have the RC8 and a New Neu motor too. I'm very surpised with your Neu design, because I have one too, with the same design like you, and I have a problem. Our front end cover is not the same part as the motor case and my two parts are moving after only one run ! I have send you a photo. What do you think about this ? Do I have to ask Neu for an exchange ? Or can I screw in this front end cover and fix it with Hard Loctite ? Do you think this will be reliable ? Didn't you have any problem with this Neu ? ( with front end cover )
Attached Thumbnails Electric 1/8th Scale conversion kits.-neu.jpg  

Last edited by Sylvéris; 03-21-2009 at 04:56 PM.
 
Old 03-21-2009, 02:43 PM
  #15734  
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I have older Neu motors with a solid front fover on the motor can. I was a little suspect of this 2 piece design when I forst saw it too. I havent had any issues with it yet though.

It appears that the small set screw tha is supposed to prevent the front cover from unscrewing is missing. There is a small hole in the side of the motor can and a little dent in the side of the front cover where the set screw is supposed to be. I would thread it back together and try putting a set screw in it to keep from unscrewing again. A little thread lock on the front cover probably wouldnt hurt either.

I dont know where you are, but I would thing that Neu would repair that for free if this is a new motor that failed. They are very good about fixing any issues usually.
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Old 03-21-2009, 02:56 PM
  #15735  
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Hi, I thank you very much, I'm thinking too, to thread lock, to screw in hardly, and think to put a set screw too, but I don't know if I will try that or if I must send my motor to Neu for an exchange with a "classic" one .The small set screw that is supposed to prevent from unscrewing was here, but I have remove it for the photo ! This screw was tightened but the can was moving a little, I think due to the power, the screw has been forced, and there is now a little play ! Because of the power of those motors ( I have only one run of 15 mn with it because I ran nitro before ), I don't know if this will be reliable. I have made my first run, and when I had check the motor temp, I have seen that the can move, then I have stop immediatly ! Maybe my front end cover hasn't been screw in with enough power ? I'm French, but I can send my motor to Neu, they gave me the option when I have received it, and seen the 4 mm mount screws !! Then I have order to RC MONSTER a "custom" motor mount with 4mm holes ! Hum, I don't know if I must send it to Neu or not ? I can try your solution, I think it's the best way if I want to keep it...
Thanks

Last edited by Sylvéris; 03-21-2009 at 03:11 PM.
 


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