The older Rulux 3307 will fit the B44.2, but we don't offer a Rulux for the rear using hex. You would have to switch to pin style in the rear.

We also offer a dish wheel 3349 that fits the B44.2.

Hideeho
I installed a full set of the JC ball cups, including the angles ones to clear the rear shocks. I had heard they popped on easily, so I wasn't terribly surprised when they were. I used the square ones on the outside rear camber links & both inside & outside front camber links. I used the smaller round ones on the steering links. I also installed the short ones for the steering link. The plastic seems to be a rather hard (but not brittle) plastic. They looked good & had minimal flashing from the casting process. I was quite pleased with the cups overall. I did this install in the morning of a race day, so I didnt have time to run it before the 1st qualifier.

Our current layout has a jump onto a table top which forces a flat landing. The table top surface is on the same level as the top of the jump, which doesn't throw you too high, & is about 5'-6' in the air. If I land it slightly nose down I don't bottom even though it is a flat landing. In other words it's a pretty easy jump. Before the 1st heat I go out to run a few warm up laps & to make sure everything worked. After running 3 or 4 laps I was on comming back to the start line to get ready to start the qualifier & landed completely flat for the 1st time. To my surprise the car bottoms HARD & stays there. When the marshal picks it up BOTH rear wheels flop out. Both rear inner ball cups (the angled ones) had popped off. I put them back on (after asking for a minutes grace :( ) & proccede with the race. During the race I popped 2 more ball cups, both rear inner cups, none were the result of tumbling or particularly hard landings.

Needless to say, by the 2nd heat I had RPM cups back on the car. Enough said!

Waflet- did each type of ball cups fall off or was it just the angled ones? I was going to purchase the same kit, so trying to get as much info as possible.

Unfortunately the angled ballcups aren't designed for the inner rears and that is most likely the issue. They are designed for the outer rear to give extra clearance for the rear wheels, not for BB clearance.

Here is a quote from the website and press release "Included is an angled version of the Wedge which can be used on the outside of the rear camber link for increased clearance on the rear wheel."

Website updated.

Sorry you had some issues with the inner ballcups popping off, but I swear by these ballcups and won't be changing back.

.....

Hideeho
The highlighted part was the part that was important to me as b4 driver:weird:. With the way I have things set up I don't actually need extra clearence, so I guess I'll give the regular cups a try on the inside, since I have them any way.

The problems were just with the angled cups on the inside. The out side & fronts never popped.

Sorry I didn't catch that; they were suppose to fix that because the ballcups were hitting the dust cover.

Website has been updated.

Quick question; are you using the shaved "U" brace or just the stock one with 1 or 2 limiters?

Any plans for a finnisher body for TD DEST210 ?

The ballcups are solid and haven't popped one. I did use the angled ballcup on the inner rear and did hit the dust cover but I heated that area of it and depressed it so it clears and spur gear clears. I use the black gearcover.

Any chance JC could make a rear tower for the B4 to run BB shocks that doesn't require any shimming, canting of shocks or dremeling, since AE isn't apparently interested in producing an adequate tower?

Get either the Associated A or C hub and you can mount it on the back side of the hub

Been there, done that. No thanks.

Has anybody drilled holes through the ballcups for easier adjusting?

Edit: sorry dumb question lol. will get the new ballcups.
Any ideas if the new ones work with DEX210 and AE ball studs?

I take it you did try to mount on the back of hub....what affect did it have? Why didnt you like?