Official xxx-nt sport 2 thread
03-02-2007, 03:57 PM
#136
Ok thats how I put them!!!! I adjusted them by pressing my chassis flat and leaving it just a few pinpoints from the can on the top and they turned out negative!!!
Im just gonna lean the front in a few degrees and see how it turns out like that!!
Every thing else is set up like the DRAKE DIRT SETUP basically
Is there even a castor adjustment on the XXXNT2?
Im just gonna lean the front in a few degrees and see how it turns out like that!!
Every thing else is set up like the DRAKE DIRT SETUP basically
Is there even a castor adjustment on the XXXNT2?
03-02-2007, 04:23 PM
#137
There's no caster adjustment on the truck. You can shim stuff to change the caster of the car but it changes a lot of other stuff; it's not worth it.
To set your camber, fill your fuel tank halfway and drop the car from a foot off the ground or so, to allow everything to settle to ride height. Then make all your camber and toe adjustments.
To set your camber, fill your fuel tank halfway and drop the car from a foot off the ground or so, to allow everything to settle to ride height. Then make all your camber and toe adjustments.
03-02-2007, 07:47 PM
#138
If i go with the os motor can i use the sport exhaust i have or do i need to up grade.......The only reason I'M upgrading the motor is because the starting system is about hosed it does nothing but slip....so I'll just go with the starter box and switch the engine a little sooner than expected.
03-02-2007, 08:52 PM
#139
Or you can get a pullstarter!!!!
Im gonna get one soon !!! You know these engines are easy to start!
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...-Mach15/Detail
Im gonna get one soon !!! You know these engines are easy to start!
http://www.losipartshouse.com/servle...-Mach15/Detail
03-02-2007, 10:17 PM
#141
A starter box is a good investment once you get past the initial cost. It's much easier and more reliable than a pull start. I'm not positive about the engine mounts and flywheel on the RTR's, but I think you should be able to start your RTR engine with a starter box as well.
As far as I know, exhaust ports for small block engines (.12-.18) are the same, so you'll be able to use the header and pipe that came with your truck on any other engine you buy.
As far as I know, exhaust ports for small block engines (.12-.18) are the same, so you'll be able to use the header and pipe that came with your truck on any other engine you buy.
03-03-2007, 07:23 PM
#142
Tech Initiate
Any know of a cheap starter box?
I would really like to have one, but the LHS charges $100
Are they universal or do I need a certain one?
I would really like to have one, but the LHS charges $100
Are they universal or do I need a certain one?
03-04-2007, 12:02 PM
#143
They're universal for the most part, you'll need to line up the chassis on the box and make sure the starter wheel hits the flywheel.
Team Losi sells a starter box for all of their XXX-NT trucks, which is what I use:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=LOSA99060
Team Losi sells a starter box for all of their XXX-NT trucks, which is what I use:
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=LOSA99060
03-04-2007, 05:01 PM
#144
Tech Initiate
Awesome thanks very much for the information 
I think I may have to stick it out for a bit longer with the pull start, due to financial restrictions but eventually that looks like it would be a lot more convienent.
After having the owner of my LHS tune the car for me after break in, what a difference! The car really moves now, a huge improvement over the first 5-6 tanks I burned through for break in!
The only thing I find tough is keeping traction, seems like whenever I nail the throttle with the front wheels turned, the rear tires spin like crazy. Any suggestions?
I think I may have to stick it out for a bit longer with the pull start, due to financial restrictions but eventually that looks like it would be a lot more convienent.
After having the owner of my LHS tune the car for me after break in, what a difference! The car really moves now, a huge improvement over the first 5-6 tanks I burned through for break in!
The only thing I find tough is keeping traction, seems like whenever I nail the throttle with the front wheels turned, the rear tires spin like crazy. Any suggestions?
03-04-2007, 05:19 PM
#145
Yup.
Squeeze the trigger slower!
2WD R/C vehicles are notoriously a handful in comparison to their 4wd cars. The rear tires are responsible for acceleration, breaking, and lateral traction. The front tires just have to steer the truck. That imbalance makes them hard to find rear traction sometimes.
Your best bet is to use the proper rear tires for your surface, and exercise throttle control! It will make you a much better R/C driver.
Squeeze the trigger slower!
2WD R/C vehicles are notoriously a handful in comparison to their 4wd cars. The rear tires are responsible for acceleration, breaking, and lateral traction. The front tires just have to steer the truck. That imbalance makes them hard to find rear traction sometimes.
Your best bet is to use the proper rear tires for your surface, and exercise throttle control! It will make you a much better R/C driver.
03-04-2007, 05:21 PM
#146
Depends on the surface you're running on. Asphalt? Loose dirt? Hard packed dirt? Grass?
03-04-2007, 05:22 PM
#147
Tech Initiate
Ok thanks alot for the tips
Any reccomendations for tires for a stock XXX-NT?
The ones I have now are wearing down quick
Any reccomendations for tires for a stock XXX-NT?
The ones I have now are wearing down quick
03-04-2007, 06:36 PM
#149
Ive been using proline bowties on the back and proline hole shots on the front, i highly recommend that combo, HEAPS! of grip on blue groove surfaces.
