FREAKAH

I have a built but never been ran Kyosho 777 SP1(early version) with some KHZ parts, ST-R brakes, SP2 rear shock tower and shocks, two spare diffs, and some spares(rear arms etc...).

With all these cool new buggies out and a few more coming, i'm very tempted to get me a new one. But it would be at a big loss cause I doubt I can get much for my SP1 new or not. My only other option is to keep upgrading the SP1 to WC specs($$$$). What should I do?

The buggy will only be used for very competitive club racing.

I would appreciate any of your opinions and suggestions.


BTW, Is there a fix for the troublesome tear prone shock bladders/diaphrams?

1armed1

iTrader: (79)

From what I have heard Kyosho has updated the bladder material and thay are not prone to tearing as much.

houston

iTrader: (96)

hey there dont give up the kyosho cause you think it is outdated you only need to change a few things such as : the chassis , the shock towers (unless you have the new 5mm thick front and rear towers) , the servo saver for the sp2 is a little beefier , the servo tray (or you can just cut a little with the dremel where the spur gear goes into the tray ) , the longer shock shafts (which i took back off ) and you can do all that for about 100$ if you shop around the kyosho is a great car and adaptable to any track condition and as far as the shock bladders , make sure to sand the end of the shock bodies and if you're really into it put a piece of 1/10th scale foam (not molded foam) behind the bladder in between the cap and bladder works killer and i dont think i have told anybody about that yet, SSSSHHHH!!!! i am a local fast guy in the oregon. washington area and have a lot of experience with kyosho cars , oh yeah get yourself an ST-R too the trucks are way fun
later HOUSTON

Buggy Master

iTrader: (37)

what's up freakah............

good to hear you may be back soon. i see in your signature that you got the gt2

anyway, to me, the most important thing with the kyosho shock is to not over tighten the shock cap. i used to crank it down with a tool inserted through the hole in the cap and would blow a bladder once in a while. just tighten them as hard as you can by hand only.

let's go racing, i know your skills are still there

AreCee

iTrader: (1)

The biggest difference between the SP1 and SP2 are the chassis length (4mm longer) and the rear shock shafts. Also they went from the blue springs to the dark blue springs. The rest is pretty much the same and you do have some very good hop ups already.

A WC will not be that much of a leap unless you really want to get a few Ti screws (phillips head, not hex) but essentially it is the same as the SP2.

A Chassis switch will neccesitate a longer rear center shaft too.

houston

iTrader: (96)

the most important thing with the kyosho shock is to not over tighten the shock cap. i used to crank it down with a tool inserted through the hole in the cap and would blow a bladder once in a while. ( just tighten them as hard as you can by hand only.)

ya not a good idea to tighten any rubber gasketed rotational fit that tight ggeeeeess!!! LOL and after all the stuff i do to the shocks ( foam behind the bladder , green slime around the seat of the bladder , sanding the end of the shock body ) the best prevention is to not slap your car down off the jumps , because the quick weight absorbtion tears the bladder and makes you take the shocks apart over and over anyway later guys HOUSTON

FREAKAH

Thanks for the suggestions and advice guys!

After reading all your suggestions, and the fact that it would be a hassle just to sell the car(at a loss), I have decided to keep the SP1.

Man! it's sooo easy to get a hard-on with all these new cool cars coming out . I hope the release of the new Associated 1/8 buggy wont give me a chubby.


Buggy Master!! Wassuup!!! Happy New Year!
Still not sure when i'll be back but I sure got the itch .
I got the NIB GT2 at a good deal($260) and I couldnt pass that up. Problem is that now I got a brand new AD2 to get rid of($300). Pass the word if you can.


Happy New Year y'all!!

windellmc

iTrader: (4)

If you run on a track with good traction the SP1 is pretty fast. A set of Racers Edge 0.5 degree toe-in hubs will lock the rear end down on almost all tracks. I know a couple of SP2 drivers that miss their SP1 with the half degree hubs.

Drift_Buggy

iTrader: (22)

There are people still racing the MP7.5. The SP1 isn't outdated at all

Cheers