staiguy

iTrader: (7)

A little oil is better then nothing but letting it go to the point it was crunchy? I think I have too much free time on my hands. Usually do re-oils for both shocks and bearings are about every 4-5 race events or about 5 hours of run time. I did keep the transmission greased for more run time between re-greases. I don’t have that much time plus it’s a pain to take the entire back end apart.

the bearing relube process is quick and easy. De-grease with orange oil, quick air spray (don’t let them spin!!!), 2-3 drops of oil depending on beating size, and done. Give it a quick spin after to work the oil. Less oil is more when relubing

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

If it’s a metal shield bearing the grease will work it way out as it runs. So if it feels dry then replacing with oil is fine. The oil will accelerate the maintenance period. If the bearings are gritty they need to be cleaned and reoiled as explained above.

River19

iTrader: (3)

What do you guys recommend for a "citrus based cleaner" ?

I just tore apart one of my TLRs today and replaced all the bearings with Whitz ceramic so I kinda want to stay on top of service.

The TLR kit bearings weren't rolling so well at least in the wheel hubs so this will be a good "reset".......

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

Acer Racing recommends the bearing blaster and electronic motor cleaner https://www.acerracing.com/products/...earing-blaster

I use Home Depot Zep Heavy-Duty Citrus Degreaser diluted in an ultrasonic cleaner.

MonkeyCmonkeyDo

iTrader: (4)

Zeros way of doing it with the grease is a good way of doing it back on pg1. It's how you do 1:1 scale car wheel bearings and not a bad way of doing it.
I use oil. Yeah racing bearing oil. I simply lay them out on a wad of paper towel. Flat preferably and oil em up. Let it sit for a minute. Wipe and re mount. When theyre crunchy yes toss em and replace. Lol.
I do not recommend running without the shield. Replace the shield and run em. Don't run em open ended.
I run on clay indoor and asphalt outdoor.
hths you
d

staiguy

iTrader: (7)

rhodopsine

In a dirt offroad environment, I tend to see bearings as consumables. No matter how good your maintenance schedule is, some dirt will get in there and ruin your bearings. That plus all the shocks and impacts some of them are constantly subject to (ie. hub bearings...). I never found the time spent on trying to clean them out when gritty to be worth it, especially with the cost of replacements. Now carpet is a different environment, much cleaner, so it may be worth it in that environment, Still, these bearings are subject to loads they were not designed to withstand so they will wear out too.

Martin Paradis

River19

iTrader: (3)

I think this is a logical approach for dirt or dirty environments.

The wheel hubs especially. I went with the ceramics mostly thinking of the gearbox. If/when the hub bearings start to feel gritty I will look into sourcing some bulk bearings of reasonable quality in the sizes for the 8 hub bearings.

shortcut3d

iTrader: (1)

FWIW, I found my favorite 540 motor bearing

FTP2C-ZZ #7 LD

Boca Bearings SR2C-ZZ Sold as a 10 pack. ABEC 7 with grade 5 Si3N4 ceramic balls come cleaned with no lube. The price is comparable to the RC motor ceramic bearings, but the spec is actually rated for 103K RPMs. I run a bead of Acer SIN oil around the metal seal and let it sit for minimum of 20 minutes before installing them.