78LikesTekno RC SCT410 2.0
10-26-2023, 04:06 PM
#61
Tech Rookie
It looks like the spur gear is a 41 tooth vs the 44 tooth on the 410.3? Will the 44 tooth spur gear fit on the 2.0 in the enclosed housing. I wanted to swap over my motor and esc from my 410.3. I run on 3s.
10-30-2023, 10:25 AM
#63
Matthew_Armeni Thank you for coming on the forum and providing insight into the development process and for giving specific details for the decisions made, I appreciate it and I'm sure a lot of others do as well. This kind of thing is what sets you apart and is one of the reasons why I will buy Tekno over other brands. One of the other things that sets Tekno apart and why I prefer your brand to others is the fact that to my knowledge you are not owned by a mega corporation and I hope this doesn't ever change. I also find it very appealing that even though to my knowledge Tekno is race oriented, you acknowledge and cater to the bashers. Thank you to you and the entire staff at Tekno for giving the RC community a first class product that doesn't need $1,000 worth of upgrades to be the best it can be.
11-02-2023, 07:14 PM
#64
Tech Rookie
… we strive to make our cars handle well and have good durability. Having a good handling "basher" type vehicle is very desirable. Having a car handle well on the street, in the grass, in an empty dirt lot just means that the customer will have a better experience when driving. Then, if they decide to go to a track one day (which is our hope, to convert more "bashers" into "racers") they'll have a car that can actually get around without looping out in every corner.
11-06-2023, 06:42 AM
#65
Wonder if these diff out drives wear better than the 410.3? Mine would hog out from the axle pins. Had to replace them often and it sucked.
11-06-2023, 08:30 AM
#66
Tech Rookie
ProStar RC makes some titanium diff pins. Probably worth a look if they kept failing on your 410.3.
11-06-2023, 02:57 PM
#67
11-08-2023, 08:23 AM
#69
11-10-2023, 08:45 PM
#71
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
arrived today. Started the build around 5pm and had this around 10pm. I must have taken the battery tray/mud guard on and off 5 times trying to get the wires routed correctly.
the unadjustable plastic a/b/c/d blocks were disappointing to me even though I knew they were plastic when I bought the kit. I will likely be fitting the truck with the -1 blocks from my eb48 2.1 that I removed when I installed all the -2 blocks, gearboxes and hubs. Does anyone have a good starting point for hinge pin pills when going to adjustable blocks?
11-10-2023, 09:34 PM
#72
arrived today. Started the build around 5pm and had this around 10pm. I must have taken the battery tray/mud guard on and off 5 times trying to get the wires routed correctly.
the unadjustable plastic a/b/c/d blocks were disappointing to me even though I knew they were plastic when I bought the kit. I will likely be fitting the truck with the -1 blocks from my eb48 2.1 that I removed when I installed all the -2 blocks, gearboxes and hubs. Does anyone have a good starting point for hinge pin pills when going to adjustable blocks?
The included plastic A, B, C, D blocks have steel inserts molded into them. The chance of breaking them is very low. If you still want to change to the aluminum blocks you'll want to start with the pills in the same location as the molded blocks. We tested the truck extensively before deciding on the final geometry, it should be a very good starting spot for most track conditions. The same thought applies to the rest of the kit setup. It's best to run it with that setup for a minimum of 6 packs before making any changes. It takes about an hour of running for the drivetrain to fully break in.
11-10-2023, 09:54 PM
#73
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
The rx box has a hole you have to route the wires through, but we're recommending that users snip off the top of it to make it a slot. Makes it a lot easier to remove/install the electronics. This will eventually be a running change.
The included plastic A, B, C, D blocks have steel inserts molded into them. The chance of breaking them is very low. If you still want to change to the aluminum blocks you'll want to start with the pills in the same location as the molded blocks. We tested the truck extensively before deciding on the final geometry, it should be a very good starting spot for most track conditions. The same thought applies to the rest of the kit setup. It's best to run it with that setup for a minimum of 6 packs before making any changes. It takes about an hour of running for the drivetrain to fully break in.
The included plastic A, B, C, D blocks have steel inserts molded into them. The chance of breaking them is very low. If you still want to change to the aluminum blocks you'll want to start with the pills in the same location as the molded blocks. We tested the truck extensively before deciding on the final geometry, it should be a very good starting spot for most track conditions. The same thought applies to the rest of the kit setup. It's best to run it with that setup for a minimum of 6 packs before making any changes. It takes about an hour of running for the drivetrain to fully break in.
I absolutely love the kingpin design with the threaded pin, I wish the eb48 2.1 was this way, I’ve had the pins in the 48 work loose even with threadlock. I’d like to see the eb410 and et410 get updated with some of the sct410 parts.
11-11-2023, 12:07 PM
#74
On the 48, be sure to clean both the screw and the carrier with denatured alcohol or motor spray before using threadlock. If there's leftover oil on those parts they have a chance of loosening. Also be sure to orient the pins so the end of the screw catches the flat spot on the pin.
11-11-2023, 01:42 PM
#75
Tech Master
iTrader: (39)
On the 48, be sure to clean both the screw and the carrier with denatured alcohol or motor spray before using threadlock. If there's leftover oil on those parts they have a chance of loosening. Also be sure to orient the pins so the end of the screw catches the flat spot on the pin.