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Old 10-21-2022, 12:41 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by 33Ozzy
Hi folks, apologies but I can't find a definitive answer as to whether the .2 gearboxes will fit a .1 chassis...it is suspected not but has it been confirmed?

Cheers, Paul
Hi Paul, it does not. I bought the gearboxes and the chassis to convert it. the holes for the gearboxes on the .2 are inward more. Could you ream out the .1 to make it fit? Maybe, but I was not going to chance it.
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Old 10-22-2022, 12:51 AM
  #62  
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Cheers...I figured as much! If they just dropped in I reckon everyone with a .1 everyone would be doing it (along with 13mm shocks) and .2 sales would be down!
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Old 10-29-2022, 04:52 PM
  #63  
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I picked up my kit about a month ago and it’s been great. I also grabbed 3 sets of the plastic LTC gears and they’ve been great as well, so much free’er than the HTC gears. I run on med bite clay and I run 10-350-7, did Spencer really say to run lower diff oils or higher for the plastic? He seems to so far run the metal gears.
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Old 10-29-2022, 09:15 PM
  #64  
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Do u guys think this kit will be better then the 22x4 elite
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Old 11-01-2022, 11:49 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Cromulent
I probably won't upgrade yet. The things I like about the updates, I've mostly fixed already on my .1 (battery mounting, fan mount). I think I'll like the 13mm shocks better, but I'm still adjusting to them on the B6.4 and not quite happy with how it's landing. I think if you already have a dialed setup, it won't be worth upgrading. If you're shopping for a new buggy, this is definitely a good choice.
what about someone getting into racing? I have a RC10B6.1 FLite I got years ago and trying to get back in the hobby and looking into a 1/10 4wd before I go 1/8th. I have tons of schelle shock pistons and Avid springs cause I went overboard. Doubt a newbie driver would even notice the changes to the .2
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Old 11-02-2022, 10:17 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by 07stuntin6r
what about someone getting into racing? I have a RC10B6.1 FLite I got years ago and trying to get back in the hobby and looking into a 1/10 4wd before I go 1/8th. I have tons of schelle shock pistons and Avid springs cause I went overboard. Doubt a newbie driver would even notice the changes to the .2
I haven't tried the 74.2 yet, but I can say without a doubt that the new 13mm shocks on the b6.4 made the car so much easier to drive vs the 6.3, which would really benefit someone getting into racing.
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Old 11-04-2022, 08:56 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by MrLean
I haven't tried the 74.2 yet, but I can say without a doubt that the new 13mm shocks on the b6.4 made the car so much easier to drive vs the 6.3, which would really benefit someone getting into racing.
yeah I was on the fence for the 13mm since I’ve got all the schelle pistons and avid springs for the 6.1 I’ve never used lol
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Old 11-17-2022, 09:23 AM
  #68  
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been hearing about some blown bearings, the flange ones. Anyone else hearing about this and have alternatives for bearings?
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Old 11-17-2022, 10:49 AM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by Cain
been hearing about some blown bearings, the flange ones. Anyone else hearing about this and have alternatives for bearings?
yes this is a thing for sure. Avid offers good replacement bearings for the gear boxes. AvidRC.com
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Last edited by artwork; 11-17-2022 at 03:56 PM.
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Old 11-18-2022, 06:14 AM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by artwork
yes this is a thing for sure. Avid offers good replacement bearings for the gear boxes. AvidRC.com
Avid or Fast Eddy Ceramic. I upgraded my .1 to .2 w/o the 13mm shocks. The flanged bearing that is ceramic from Fast Eddy is what I am using.
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Old 11-21-2022, 06:57 AM
  #71  
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any of you try the tekno springs on your buggies? if so, how do they fit?
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Old 11-21-2022, 02:00 PM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by 07stuntin6r
yeah I was on the fence for the 13mm since I’ve got all the schelle pistons and avid springs for the 6.1 I’ve never used lol
You could technically still use the 12mm springs on the 13mm shock bodies.. Rivkin was using the 12mm V2 springs on the rear of his, with the shock collar flipped to mate flush with the spring, along with using the 12mm spring retainers on the bottom.

Last edited by roffutt; 11-21-2022 at 02:24 PM.
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Old 11-26-2022, 06:12 AM
  #73  
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I just bought the car to replace my B74. I really hate the battery holder on the new car. The stupid rubber strap is a pain on the ass to put on and off.
Has anyone come up with a different battery holder similar to the B74.1 carbon fibre one.
Thought I would ask before trying to MacGyver something to work.
only had a pack and a half on the car and stil working out the bugs.
The only problem I have is that I run on medium grip carpet and the car’s back end bounces coming off small jumps. Thinking 14 mm ride height might be too low. But other than that small problem and battery love how the car drives and feels.
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Old 11-26-2022, 07:15 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by rcdave905
I just bought the car to replace my B74. I really hate the battery holder on the new car. The stupid rubber strap is a pain on the ass to put on and off.
Has anyone come up with a different battery holder similar to the B74.1 carbon fibre one.
Thought I would ask before trying to MacGyver something to work.
only had a pack and a half on the car and stil working out the bugs.
The only problem I have is that I run on medium grip carpet and the car’s back end bounces coming off small jumps. Thinking 14 mm ride height might be too low. But other than that small problem and battery love how the car drives and feels.
I would argue the 14mm ride height isn’t your problem. I often run 12mm with no issue.

You may benefit from the 2.5mm thick pistons as many are coming around to. I have never liked the 2mm pistons on the rear of any of my cars and find the thicker piston land better because of the extra pack, and support the car better through long bends and getting back onto the throttle.


Having said that, you will also notice a significant difference if you are on the throttle as you land. Loading up the driveshafts as you land maybe all you need to do if you’re not already.
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Old 11-26-2022, 02:55 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by nesbot
I don't use a scale when building my gear diffs. Some use their finger, I just use a driver across the top to wipe the excess.

https://fb.watch/g3PTJ3jhsX/
I’m surprised this works. Seems to be over filled. There needs to be some air in the diff so that it can compensate for fluid expansion. The fluid expands with heat but remains non-compressible. I over-filled my front diff once. The car behaved strangely from halfway though the next heat I ran. When I pulled it off the track the 10k oil I had in there felt like 50k+ because of the internal pressure. Took a sec to figure it out because it felt normal again after I marshaled and the car cooled back to room temp. Someone smarter than me said, “oh yeah, that means the diff is over full…”.
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