jonski

iTrader: (380)

I ran mine on a high grip clay track with 10/500/7 and it felt great. Spinning the diffs by hand, they definitely feel lighter. Was thinking about trying 15/500/10 in mine as well.

RazorRC

iTrader: (5)

I don’t know about the dirt car, but the kit carpet setup seems really off to me.

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

I put in the LTC gears and gullwing front arms and tower on my .1. Also started with 15k F and 10k R oils and it felt great with them. They feel a little looser and don't bind as much under load (cornering) so you run slightly thicker oils.

The new gullwing stuff in the front is great. Softens the initial steering a bit even on slicks and high grip.

HeavyD99

iTrader: (15)

Got a chance to run my B74.2D on med grip clay this past week and gotta say, the 13mm shocks were super plush on flat landings and kept me for getting squirrely and allowed me to accelerate away more often that not. I ran 2x1.7F and 2x1.8R with 32.5/27.5 and stock springs. It was a cool evening so I can see going up 2.5-5wt when summer returns. The LTC gears are amazingly smooth vs the older gears, I had plastic in my .1 as well and it is night and day difference. I ran 10-350-7 and it went really well but might consider moving up like others have mentioned to 15-350-10. The only issue I had was the shimming of the diffs, whoa they were tight. A 0.25 shim on each side of the diff resulted in a screaming noise I thought I had the wrong pitch spur lol. Anyhow, removed one shim from the bevel gear side and that helped immensely. It still had a bit of a scream down the back straight, so I finished the club race and once home pulled both doffs out and placed both 0.25 shims on the diff case side because I think the bevel gear on the diff and the centre pinion gear were just too tightly meshed together. This was an issue with my .1 as well so I hope I have it solved. Last item, the new .2 came with plastic "blocks" which keep the top and bottom of the front spindles apart. I assume this is due to the plastics cooling and shrinking to where they are too tight for the aluminum caster blocks to fit freely and then need to be sanded as per that video Spencer Rivkin did talking about ensuring the front end is free for those who remember. Anyhow, great kit, love the new shocks and gear sets.

Silverbullet555

iTrader: (16)

Are the new ball cups for 3.5mm any different externally than the old ones? Will the old ball cup wrenches still work with them is what I'm getting at?

cplus

iTrader: (11)

They are closer in design to the B5 ballcups than the B6 based ones.

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

Did a quick search but couldn't find anything on my specific question. Building my first center diff and I must be doing something majorly wrong, because there's no way I'm getting enough diff fluid in the cup to make weight. The fluid is already overflowing and it is 4.5g short. I've let it sit overnight and spun the gears a bit to make sure there are no air bubbles.

Am I supposed to include the spur gear and spur gear screws when weighing?

jonski

iTrader: (380)

Yes, everything except the bearings.

cartmen34

iTrader: (2)

Thank you!

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

I dont build to weight, no time for that at the track. I just make sure its full to the top including the sun gear and then assemble.

nesbot

I don't use a scale when building my gear diffs. Some use their finger, I just use a driver across the top to wipe the excess.

https://fb.watch/g3PTJ3jhsX/

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

This is the best way that I've found, as well.

MrLean

iTrader: (17)

Are you referring to the setup in general, or are you speaking about the LTC diff oil kit setup that others are talking about?

I haven't gotten the B74.2 yet, but we ran our 13.5 B74.1's on indoor astro with plastic LTC gears, 20k/15k oils and a center slipper at our trophy race over the weekend and it worked well...I was BQ (car shut off while in 1st halfway through B-main), and my son qualified 4th and finished 1st

Cromulent

iTrader: (8)

The ball cup wrench I created for B6/B74.1 ends fits fine on the B74.2. I didn't check my SRP driver tip though, so YMMV with commercial tools.

Cromulent

iTrader: (8)

It seems very different from the 74.1, but much better in my practice session so far - less snappy, but more predictable cornering on black CRC. Switching from lower traction tires like Schumacher Cactus (which I preferred on the 74.1) to Fuzz Bites really changed the car up and was a massive improvement in consistency for me.

I did notice the arms are very sticky on the hinge pins, making ride height adjustments inconsistent, even after using Arrowmax reamers. I've got some actual 4-flute reamers on the way from McMaster I hope will alleviate the issue. edit/update, they didn’t need any reaming, the spacers were too tight and causing binding.