dfinn

Interesting. I have those 2 M2 screws but the head doesn't cover the front of the hinge pin so it does nothing to keep it from coming out. I guess I'll have to find a small washer to put on that M2 screw so it secures the hinge pin.

Pro tip: before you start to dig into the car trying to get more steering, check to make sure your steering trim isn't turned down and limiting you from getting full steering side to side. I tend to overlook the simple things sometimes and make things more complicated than they need to be. I also set camber, toe and moved the front lower shock mount to the inside hole. Going back to the track tonight for some more practice and hopefully this all makes a big difference.

will5879

I run my camber at -1.5 degrees all around, a tiny bit of toe out, half a degree. Ride height 23mm front and rear. If you can't measure it, go driveshafts level when looking from the rear. Then chassis level looking from the side as close as you can get it. Nobody likes a saggy rear....

dfinn

My bottoms got some sag to it currently. I'm at 22 in the front and 19 in the back. How can this be adjusted? New springs?

will5879

Well they include those spring clips, more clips = more preload and more ride height

dfinn

Ok, I didn't get those with the car (bought used). I'll ask at the track tonight, maybe they have a stash of them somewhere.

tomkatn

iTrader: (119)

Another option if you can't find the pre-load clips, would be to see if anyone has the taller 9mm spring cups, most will have an assortment of them, as they are used on both threaded body shocks as well as your type that uses the spring clips ... your current spring cups are likely the middle size (5mm), so you will be making up 4mm there ... can also screw out the lower shock eye a couple turns to lengthen the stroke as well ... as you see in the pic that Will posted, stock is 8mm of clips on the rear/2mm on the front, just make sure your stroke/overall length is the same side to side ... moving your front shocks to the inner hole on the arm only is going to increase the F-R difference, outer hole on front arm is the stock position ...

will5879

With those springs I recommend.... I would keep everything in the stock locations as shown in the manual..... until you are extremely comfortable and familiar with the car and how it feels / drives and you can consistently crank out clean fast laps nearly mistake free. Ball stud washers, camber link locations, shock locations, etc. Keep it simple, the guys at AE know what they are doing regarding the geometry of these cars. Roll centers, shock package, etc. can be optimized later, if needed, to dial in the feel / handling characteristic that fits your own personal driving style and preference, and shave some time off those laps.

henry

You know I think that hinge pin deal is a recent manufacturing defect.

It's present on my daughter's rb10 and my son's pro2sc10. But not on my Prosc10.

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

what would be a simple and easy fix to this problem?

dfinn

Vast improvement, thanks everyone for your help!

tomkatn

iTrader: (119)

So the head of the M2x3mm screw in the Front Hinge Pin Brace is not wide enough to capture the hinge pin as intended? ... simplest would be a very thin metal washer under the screws to extend onto the hinge pins... could always drill and tap the front bulkhead for a set screw into the hinge pin, the way the aluminum front bulkhead is designed, or if you really like to spend money (or just like 'blue bling') replace with the aluminum front bulkhead, and eliminate the front hinge pin brace altogether ...

DR10 Bulkheads (associatedelectrics.com)

jamsandolina

iTrader: (4)

does this happen on both the inner and outer front hinge pins? I've read that you can replace the rear outer hinge pin with the hinge bolt and nut from the b74.1 and that solves that hinge pin issue.. Anybody else hear that or read that too?

tomkatn

iTrader: (119)

I almost think this issue could simply be a matter of M2 screws with smaller diameter heads than others ... I probably have a larger supply of hardware than the average guy with several M2 screws, and I can see the difference in heads ... AE might be including a batch of screws with smaller heads than they used to ... all through the 5 series, it was never much of an issue (same size screws), but if I got a screw that did not touch the hinge pin, I simply grabbed another with a slightly wider head ... even on the old B4/T4/SC10's, if same issue, or the hole stripped, I replaced the 2-56x1/8" screw they were using to capture hinge pins with the M2x3mm when I ran into it ...

Uchira

I bought this recently and am having a ton of fun running it around. My brother pulled out his old RC10T and we plan to build a course to race around in. I want to get a new body for the RB10 and really would like to know if the RC10B4 bodies fit this chassis.

Anyone know any more about dif bodies that fit the RB10 Chassis?

will5879

Associated P/N 72015. Out of stock unfortunately. A guy at our track moved the electronics from his B6.whatever to his RB10 and runs 17.5 just for fun and actually is super fast with it. He put his B4 body on it. I'm not sure exactly how good the fit is, but it's on there..