the resistance

iTrader: (3)

awesome! Thanks for your help!

sea1swk

Anything to the rumors of a new model in the works? Old one discontinued? Or just a supply shortage?

Krio

iTrader: (159)

Looks like a .1 version is on the way, to me.

Muecke

Can anyone tell me what kind of advantage have these 66mm dogbones (part #92212)????
found them an the AE page.

Do I need anything more?

Are there also different lengths for the front?

trf211

The longer bone will decrease the binding/straightening affect the cvd has on suspension. More body roll and more stability with the longer option. Another bonus is you get a small amount more uptravel clearance with the 66's over the 62's. Trading off outright response and drive, for a more stable and number feel. Atleast that was my experience switching between them.

AxiomJacob

iTrader: (27)

Two weeks?

Price down to $448 on A main.

Eddie M

iTrader: (4)

It does seem like a new car is coming. I hope it easily upgrades like B6.1 to B6.2. I just bought the car when it is on sale for $479 a few weeks back from Amain.

motorXhead

iTrader: (7)

question.... i just got a used b74 from someone here on rctech and want to freshen up the front and rear diffs and set it up for my local track but need to know what weight fluid to use? Track is OCRC, indoor clay and track info listed on petitrc goes from dirt to hard packed and from medium to high traction. (unfortunately petitrc doesnt have any setups for the b74 and OCRC). Also wondering if i should switch from the slipper clutch to a center gear diff and if so what weight fluid i should?

thanks in advance!

CCristo

iTrader: (56)

You can't go wrong with this setup: https://img2.associatedelectrics.com...g_Baseline.pdf

timannnn6

iTrader: (140)

10k front, 7k rear with slipper is great. Run the LCF pads on 2 pad side and white pad on single side.

motorXhead

iTrader: (7)

thank you!

awesome thank you!

there is so much to this crap and having someone that knows what they are doing really help start off right.

Muecke

Thanks for your answer.

What do you mean with "a small amount more uptravel clearance" ? You mean more ride hight?

Are there also longer bones for the front or only the rear?

Alexv2024

iTrader: (2)

I drove that setup on a friends car. He asked me what I thought of it and it was awful. 90% of that was the 1.5 in the front piston and center slipper. Change those to normal stuff (1.6/1.6 front piston 37-40wt front oil and center slipper) and its a great setup. Those two things in the setup make the car absurdly twitchy, which it doesn't need.

If you bring up weight, a center diff with plastic gears and aluminum or Ti screws weighs less than a standard slipper. That schell or aftermarket slipper may be lighter than a stock slipper and similar or slightly lighter than a light diff but slippers suck to drive on dirt anyway. 90% of everyone run center diffs.

But the rest of the setup is good. We changed those things I mentioned and it worked great.

ray_munday

iTrader: (4)

Hi guys,

There were some questions a page or 2 back about tyre choice for outdoor dirt racing. Ive put together a tyre guide on how we choose our JConcepts tyres here in Australia.

Rctech:
Ask Ray Munday - JConcepts, Reedy, Associated Aussie Support Thread

I have also put it on my facebook page:

Any questions, let me know. Hope it helps out!

Ray

nesbot

After struggling a bit recently on an indoor clay track, I think I had narrowed down my issue to an over steer and the back end was tail happy. I turned down my steering D/R to 90% and my qualifier and main to end the night were my fastest yet at this track and layout. Should I try a different front tire ? (running positron, say try an electron) ? Try another setup change to remove some steering? Or not worry about it, be happy it feels good and just send it?