170LikesYokomo YZ-2T 2WD ST truck
11-05-2018, 08:42 AM - Wikipost
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01-08-2019, 08:22 AM
#121
really great vehicle, buddy of mine with a YZ2T took the win, watching him and another driver battling it out in the amain was something to see!
01-18-2019, 12:24 PM
#122
New truck new paint. Built it to the kit setup with heavier oil in the shocks and 1mm inside the front shocks instead of 2mm. Took the truck out for the first time and was able to tq and win.
1st heat the truck felt slow. I was able to tq, but it felt off. It was a little loose and stiff, the looseness might have just been due to the track and fresh tires (Other guys complained it was a little slick out there so could have just been the track). There is a decent sized triple on the backside of the track that was kind of hit or miss so I wound up double-singleing it most of the time to play it safe and lost a lot of time. The triple is tricky for a few reasons. There is a 90 degree left at the base of the landing. You need a good amount of speed to clear it, if you come up short you end up casing the back end and flipping up in your lid. If you overshoot it you wind up it the loose stuff and spinning out. You pretty much have to hit it dead on to be able to make the corner and stay in the groove.
2nd heat I added a heavier battery (went from orion 3800 xs to orion 5500 which added about 60 grams), dropped the oil weight back down to the kit oil. Was able to tq myself and the truck handled much better. The back triple again was tough to get, but the grip was better so I was able to make up more time when I did triple. When I didn't feel like I had the drive I double-singled it. The truck seemed like it did not want to turn in the tight 180s unless I hit the brakes and swung it around, but didn't want to do that because too much and it lost the rear end when I got back on power.
3rd heat the truck felt great. Only change I made was lowering the ride height in the front. The grip came up in and the truck handled as good as I could ask for. I again set the tq, got an extra lap in because I was able to triple the back section almost every lap. Only time I didn't was a few laps when I was in traffic. That was more out of caution than not being able to do it, I just didn't want to get tangled up with them in the air.
A-Main I did not change a thing and the truck felt like it did in heat 2, maybe a little better. Not the trucks fault I didn't change a thing. The track got watered more than previous rounds and there wasn't as much time in between the last heat and the main. We were bumped back in the running order and by the time we ran there were still slick/glossy spots on the track. I double-singled the triple every lap to stay consistent. No sense chancing it in the main. I lost about a half second on my fast lap and over all each lap. I actually got jumped over by second place on the first lap on the triple and had to follow for a few laps before I was able to get back around him. After that ran consistent laps didn't wreck and was able to get the win.
I am curious to see how the different buggy rear springs work on the front of the truck so I threw a set on and will test it out tomorrow before the heats begin.
1st heat the truck felt slow. I was able to tq, but it felt off. It was a little loose and stiff, the looseness might have just been due to the track and fresh tires (Other guys complained it was a little slick out there so could have just been the track). There is a decent sized triple on the backside of the track that was kind of hit or miss so I wound up double-singleing it most of the time to play it safe and lost a lot of time. The triple is tricky for a few reasons. There is a 90 degree left at the base of the landing. You need a good amount of speed to clear it, if you come up short you end up casing the back end and flipping up in your lid. If you overshoot it you wind up it the loose stuff and spinning out. You pretty much have to hit it dead on to be able to make the corner and stay in the groove.
2nd heat I added a heavier battery (went from orion 3800 xs to orion 5500 which added about 60 grams), dropped the oil weight back down to the kit oil. Was able to tq myself and the truck handled much better. The back triple again was tough to get, but the grip was better so I was able to make up more time when I did triple. When I didn't feel like I had the drive I double-singled it. The truck seemed like it did not want to turn in the tight 180s unless I hit the brakes and swung it around, but didn't want to do that because too much and it lost the rear end when I got back on power.
3rd heat the truck felt great. Only change I made was lowering the ride height in the front. The grip came up in and the truck handled as good as I could ask for. I again set the tq, got an extra lap in because I was able to triple the back section almost every lap. Only time I didn't was a few laps when I was in traffic. That was more out of caution than not being able to do it, I just didn't want to get tangled up with them in the air.
A-Main I did not change a thing and the truck felt like it did in heat 2, maybe a little better. Not the trucks fault I didn't change a thing. The track got watered more than previous rounds and there wasn't as much time in between the last heat and the main. We were bumped back in the running order and by the time we ran there were still slick/glossy spots on the track. I double-singled the triple every lap to stay consistent. No sense chancing it in the main. I lost about a half second on my fast lap and over all each lap. I actually got jumped over by second place on the first lap on the triple and had to follow for a few laps before I was able to get back around him. After that ran consistent laps didn't wreck and was able to get the win.
I am curious to see how the different buggy rear springs work on the front of the truck so I threw a set on and will test it out tomorrow before the heats begin.
01-22-2019, 08:50 AM
#123
I have a quick question, really liking the looks and features of this truck. But, I am curious what offset the wheels are? I have LOADS of AE and TLR wheels/tires already and am not interested in buying another complete setup, are either of these compatible ?
Thanks!
Thanks!
01-22-2019, 12:10 PM
#124
Same as AE offset. The ones sold in the Yokomo packaging are jconcepts rims.
01-24-2019, 08:58 PM
#125
I am going for the gear diff, upper and lower aluminum front arm mounts, Techra bulkhead mounts, electronics weight and front sway bar. The buggy set will provide the hardware, but I 've got an old 1.4 sway bar and some 1.5 wire waiting just in case. Maybe I'll also add a thinner rear one, Shin used 1.4/1.2 at the EOS.
I' ll start with 37.5/32.5 wt and the kit springs, but I guess I'll end up with either Racing Performer purple/black or black/orange. Our track favors carpet-like set-ups.
I' ll start with 37.5/32.5 wt and the kit springs, but I guess I'll end up with either Racing Performer purple/black or black/orange. Our track favors carpet-like set-ups.
01-26-2019, 07:29 AM
#126
i trid the 1.5 bar last night and it took away too much rotation on Home Depot carpet running jconcepts tires with dirt tech inserts in the front. Gonna try to figure out a way to soften up the inserts, and go to a smaller bar (have the official front yokomo swaybar kit). See if I can add a tad of roll so it doesn’t snap roll. Other then that the truck is getting really good.
01-27-2019, 06:05 PM
#127
Facts, gear diff installed, Shin's set up (more or less) as posted on Petit.
Under compression at 11mm ride height my bones are bottomed out in the cups shocks are wayyyyy away from bottoming.
In first pic you can see the bone bottomed out as well as to the right the fact the shock is not even close to full compression.
2nd pic is just showing the fact that I am 11mm off getting the chassis to flat land.
01-27-2019, 08:34 PM
#128
Another question about this problem.....................
Facts, gear diff installed, Shin's set up (more or less) as posted on Petit.Under compression at 11mm ride height my bones are bottomed out in the cups shocks are wayyyyy away from bottoming.In first pic you can see the bone bottomed out as well as to the right the fact the shock is not even close to full compression.2nd pic is just showing the fact that I am 11mm off getting the chassis to flat land.
01-28-2019, 06:29 AM
#129
For anyone else having this issue the part # for the 87.5 dogbone is Z2-01075B. Unfortunately Amain does not have a listing for that part # I am looking into when they might have it.
01-28-2019, 07:06 AM
#130
Can I ask where is it you learned of this problem? And the solution? As a reseller I do my best to know of issues and the solutions to products I sell. I found this issue on my own vehicle but had it been on a kit someone had purchased I would want to know the resolution and where I could source parts to correct it. Crappy to sell a kit for over $500 and not have a solution so someone can run it.
For anyone else having this issue the part # for the 87.5 dogbone is Z2-01075B. Unfortunately Amain does not have a listing for that part # I am looking into when they might have it.
2 I looked on facebook thread after building second truck.
The first kit I built I noticed it was binding up with the center dot pills so I put .5 pills facing out to give more room and it didn't bind up. I didn't think anything of it, just assumed parts/manual error. I later (recently) bought a second kit and didn't have the issue. I did however have a binding issue in the rear hub bearings. When I tightened up the rear wheels they didn't want to spin. I pulled both trucks apart to see if there was a difference in the crush tube width and there wasn't. I am guessing the inside of the hubs were just slightly wider so I put a wider crush tube in between the bearings and that got rid of the rear wheel binding/not spinning when I tighten the wheel down. When inspecting the crush tubes, bearings, hubs, etc I noticed the new truck had shorter driveshafts, looked at the numbers and one said 89mm the other said 87.5mm
I was curious so began looking around in the different threads and saw someone had posted about these issues in the facebook thread.
Looks like others had the same issue with the driveshafts/outdrives and there is a running change in the kits to address it. New kits you can run the pills with the dots in the center and also to the inside with no binding. Older kits you're stuck with running the pills to the outside.
01-28-2019, 07:13 AM
#131
1 I have 2 trucks.
2 I looked on facebook thread after building second truck.
The first kit I built I noticed it was binding up with the center dot pills so I put .5 pills facing out to give more room and it didn't bind up. I didn't think anything of it, just assumed parts/manual error. I later (recently) bought a second kit and didn't have the issue. I did however have a binding issue in the rear hub bearings. When I tightened up the rear wheels they didn't want to spin. I pulled both trucks apart to see if there was a difference in the crush tube width and there wasn't. I am guessing the inside of the hubs were just slightly wider so I put a wider crush tube in between the bearings and that got rid of the rear wheel binding/not spinning when I tighten the wheel down. When inspecting the crush tubes, bearings, hubs, etc I noticed the new truck had shorter driveshafts, looked at the numbers and one said 89mm the other said 87.5mm
I was curious so began looking around in the different threads and saw someone had posted about these issues in the facebook thread.
Looks like others had the same issue with the driveshafts/outdrives and there is a running change in the kits to address it. New kits you can run the pills with the dots in the center and also to the inside with no binding. Older kits you're stuck with running the pills to the outside.
2 I looked on facebook thread after building second truck.
The first kit I built I noticed it was binding up with the center dot pills so I put .5 pills facing out to give more room and it didn't bind up. I didn't think anything of it, just assumed parts/manual error. I later (recently) bought a second kit and didn't have the issue. I did however have a binding issue in the rear hub bearings. When I tightened up the rear wheels they didn't want to spin. I pulled both trucks apart to see if there was a difference in the crush tube width and there wasn't. I am guessing the inside of the hubs were just slightly wider so I put a wider crush tube in between the bearings and that got rid of the rear wheel binding/not spinning when I tighten the wheel down. When inspecting the crush tubes, bearings, hubs, etc I noticed the new truck had shorter driveshafts, looked at the numbers and one said 89mm the other said 87.5mm
I was curious so began looking around in the different threads and saw someone had posted about these issues in the facebook thread.
Looks like others had the same issue with the driveshafts/outdrives and there is a running change in the kits to address it. New kits you can run the pills with the dots in the center and also to the inside with no binding. Older kits you're stuck with running the pills to the outside.
Are their other groups you would suggest I join as well?
01-28-2019, 07:48 AM
#132
Awesome, thanks so much for your reply. I believe you are a member of the Yokomo YZ-2 & YZ-4 group. When I looked in that group for this issue I didn’t see it, I certainly might have missed it. I recalled seeing something in this thread but when I looked through it I didn’t see comments regarding production changes etc..
Are their other groups you would suggest I join as well?
You have to look a good ways back in the facebook thread... December 30th post by Yavuz Jack Kura
01-28-2019, 09:43 AM
#134
I will post an update on this past weekend later today when I get some time. We got canceled on the 19th due to the storm and turnout. Those of us there were able to use it as a practice/test and tune day for the new track layout
01-29-2019, 08:19 AM
#135
Center Link
Hey
Does anyone have an extra center link from the Truck Kit (Z2-200NT) ? I don't want a replacement one, they are different. I want to use it on the buggy.
Part from kit itself
Does anyone have an extra center link from the Truck Kit (Z2-200NT) ? I don't want a replacement one, they are different. I want to use it on the buggy.
Part from kit itself