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Old 07-30-2018, 07:15 AM
  #601  
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Originally Posted by idbdoug
So you don't need the aluminum shock caps for yokomo YZ-4 SF?
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They are supposedly a tuning option for low grip conditions. I had them on my B-Max2 back in the day and initially also on my YZ-2, but only installed the ones I had bought for my YZ-4 for a single race on loose dirt. You don't risk stripping a thread on the venting holes, but that's about it.
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Old 07-31-2018, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Has anyone tried the center diff on carpet? I'm thinking it would be easier on the drivetrain over the slipper. Have it, but have not run it yet. Thoughts?
I have been running it. What I noticed is that the main difference is punch at the start of a run. Meaning that the center diff has slightly less punch at the onset of a full trigger pull, but the end of the pull it has all the power that a slipper has. This does NOT seem to effect lap times as the consistency is exactly the same from the beginning to the end of a 10 minute run. With the stock slipper sometimes it seemed to fade in punch at the ends of the run. Once you get used to the feel, it is much better for consistency, at least in my case, I have actually had my fastest and most consistent lap times at our local track with the center diff installed
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Old 07-31-2018, 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Everrr


Not liking what I’m hearing about yokomo titanium screws! Lol. You have the RDRP shock mounts? How are they holding? The stock 3x22 screw on the front(both) are slightly bent.... so me having the ones that come wirh the kit(titanium) definitely will not last lol. And about the turnbuckles, I had plans on buying the turnbuckles at the local track, yokomos version. But now I’m just thinking of getting the J concerts version of turnbuckles. What’s the part number?
JCO2557 This is for the yz2 but should work for the yz4sf, at least I hope lol ordered a set as the first set looks good on my YZ2. The RDRP shock towers seem to be working fine, nothing bent yet, I did just get them installed as I just got back from the USA and got to try everything out. The racing performer screws are legit, I just left steel screws in on anything aluminum, the hinge pin holders, servo mounts and such. Steel is stronger but heavier, so leaving like 10 screws in is really no big deal. When I did put the new standoffs on my screws were also bent lol. The only real issue I noticed is that the RDRP stand offs seem a bit longer, the front shocks seem to be at a slight angle but nothing that seems to worry me as I was able to get my fastest laptime ever at our local track this past Sunday
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Old 07-31-2018, 10:01 PM
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Shock mounts take a lot of abuse for titanium, I’ve bent just about everything ive tried at one time or another. now i just use regular steel screws, cheap and easy to replace them when/if i bend one.
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Old 08-03-2018, 05:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
I have been running it. What I noticed is that the main difference is punch at the start of a run. Meaning that the center diff has slightly less punch at the onset of a full trigger pull, but the end of the pull it has all the power that a slipper has. This does NOT seem to effect lap times as the consistency is exactly the same from the beginning to the end of a 10 minute run. With the stock slipper sometimes it seemed to fade in punch at the ends of the run. Once you get used to the feel, it is much better for consistency, at least in my case, I have actually had my fastest and most consistent lap times at our local track with the center diff installed
Yes. That's why I want to make the change, get rid of the initial hard grab a slipper has, then the fade as it gets used during a race. I can feel it lose its functionality especially in longer mains. It will go in this week before Wednesday. Thanks. You running the stock 200K?
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Old 08-03-2018, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff_S
I know that's what they recommend, but their chart looks wrong to me. I don't see how you recommend the same FDR for 2wd and 4wd.

I don't run clay or really large tracks, so what do I know, but 7.0 is about 5 pinion teeth away from my setup.
Yeah, for PDX Underground on Astro I was at 84/27, now that they've gone carpet, I will drop 2 teeth as per Ron Schuur on the new Schuur Speed V4.
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Old 08-03-2018, 09:51 PM
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Center slipper or convert to gear diff for a high bite indoor clay track?
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
JCO2557 This is for the yz2 but should work for the yz4sf, at least I hope lol ordered a set as the first set looks good on my YZ2. The RDRP shock towers seem to be working fine, nothing bent yet, I did just get them installed as I just got back from the USA and got to try everything out. The racing performer screws are legit, I just left steel screws in on anything aluminum, the hinge pin holders, servo mounts and such. Steel is stronger but heavier, so leaving like 10 screws in is really no big deal. When I did put the new standoffs on my screws were also bent lol. The only real issue I noticed is that the RDRP stand offs seem a bit longer, the front shocks seem to be at a slight angle but nothing that seems to worry me as I was able to get my fastest laptime ever at our local track this past Sunday
Down here in SoCal we use the Fin turnbuckle kit for the B64D. Works perfectly. Running on carpet, haven't bent one yet. Good turnbuckles.
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by jeromerc
I have been running it. What I noticed is that the main difference is punch at the start of a run. Meaning that the center diff has slightly less punch at the onset of a full trigger pull, but the end of the pull it has all the power that a slipper has. This does NOT seem to effect lap times as the consistency is exactly the same from the beginning to the end of a 10 minute run. With the stock slipper sometimes it seemed to fade in punch at the ends of the run. Once you get used to the feel, it is much better for consistency, at least in my case, I have actually had my fastest and most consistent lap times at our local track with the center diff installed
On carpet, less punch would be optimal for me at least, since grip is not an issue.
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Old 08-05-2018, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by PorTX
Center slipper or convert to gear diff for a high bite indoor clay track?
Yokomo markets the gear diff to be best in all situations, but nobody is really using it yet. I'm sure that is about to change.
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Old 08-06-2018, 06:31 AM
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I am using the center diff for mod medium bite clay. I am using 1 million fluid in it and it is essential for this setup!
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Old 08-06-2018, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jpcopeland1
Yes. That's why I want to make the change, get rid of the initial hard grab a slipper has, then the fade as it gets used during a race. I can feel it lose its functionality especially in longer mains. It will go in this week before Wednesday. Thanks. You running the stock 200K?
Yes, running the 200k, thought about upping it to 500 or even 1 million but at 200 I got my fastest lap time ever...
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:48 PM
  #613  
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Guys just wondering if the shock seals are the same size as Kyosho or AE?
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:00 AM
  #614  
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double post
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Old 08-13-2018, 05:02 AM
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after 2 club race days on my carpet car, the gears are getting loud. I'm guessing I should re-shim the diffs. Anyone else's car get loud after a couple races?
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