13LikesKNOX Offroad Vic
01-21-2012, 04:49 AM
My Son Tristan did the same thing with his transmitter. Thank god for the current generation radios with failsafes. In regard to your jumping issue with you 22, what configuration are you running mid or rear? What shock pistons are you running? The shock collars should be adjusted for ride height and chassis balance. I run 25mm rear ride with pink springs, and 26mm front ride height with orange springs. I also added weight to the front (50g). That was done mainly for anti wheelie aid but I also found it jumps better and steers nicer. Keep in mind I run mod, haven't placed in a national title in over 15years. I also run the 5deg blocks but would prefer to run the 10's but find find rear traction and high speed stability better with the 5's. Keep in mind this is all personal preference and run different oils from kit setup.
Cheers, Brett
Cheers, Brett
I guess I'm wondering how ride hieght would attribute to the jumping ans stability. Then again you did say something about chassis balance.... Maybe as I get closer to the top or bottom I'm able to more accurately even left and right...Thanks again
Ant
01-21-2012, 05:58 AM
I'll marshall for you guys when you race if you want, as I dont have a 1/10 yet & I dont mind lending a hand for your working bees either.
01-21-2012, 12:22 PM
This is my latest setup for the TLR 22. You may want to try it... Seems to work well for stock racing.
01-21-2012, 12:34 PM
race day
Hi all,
I have not been to the track for about a year, I was thinking of taking my boys down for a drive today, but I am unsure what days it is used for racing, can anyone help with some info please?
I have not been to the track for about a year, I was thinking of taking my boys down for a drive today, but I am unsure what days it is used for racing, can anyone help with some info please?
01-21-2012, 12:41 PM
Racing starts in Feb, first and third Sunday.
01-21-2012, 12:46 PM
01-21-2012, 02:55 PM
Thanks Brett, I'm running rear configuration and never even thought to measure the ride hieght... That's another one I gotta check out. I run 54 pistons on the front and 55 on the back. Gawd this is getting more and more technical the faster I go - which is still pretty slow I guess I'm wondering how ride hieght would attribute to the jumping ans stability. Then again you did say something about chassis balance.... Maybe as I get closer to the top or bottom I'm able to more accurately even left and right...
Thanks again
Ant
I guess I'm wondering how ride hieght would attribute to the jumping ans stability. Then again you did say something about chassis balance.... Maybe as I get closer to the top or bottom I'm able to more accurately even left and right...Thanks again
Ant
01-21-2012, 08:25 PM
Just got back from track. Had a blast, track condition pretty average but gave me the opportunity to try a couple of things. Smoked two sets of rears in three batteries due to the hard low traction nature of track today. All in all great couple of hours and can't believe I was the only one there, very rare indeed.
01-22-2012, 01:46 AM
Just got back from track. Had a blast, track condition pretty average but gave me the opportunity to try a couple of things. Smoked two sets of rears in three batteries due to the hard low traction nature of track today. All in all great couple of hours and can't believe I was the only one there, very rare indeed.
01-22-2012, 06:25 AM
With the stock motor I am running 25wt oil in front (red springs) and 30 in the back (yellow springs). I have to adjust the shock collar (if that's what you call the windy things on the springs), almost right up to the top on the rears and the fronts all the way to the bottom.
I am doing this because when jumping - even the little ones, it drammatically nose dives. Also, if I'm just a little off line it goes nuts banking like a plane doing a left or right hand turn in the air. Is this normal? Funnily enough adjusting the collars fixes it but then the steering gets really lazy.
I am running the stock 10 degree front camber block and have ordered a couple of the 5 degree ones so that should make the steering a little more aggressive again but don't know if they'll arive in time for the 5th and I want to give stock a go. I feel like I am missing something. Surely those windy things are not the only things to fix these issues but it makes it so I can let go of the trigger to bring the nose down or keep it down to get it up.
Any ideas?
Ant
I am doing this because when jumping - even the little ones, it drammatically nose dives. Also, if I'm just a little off line it goes nuts banking like a plane doing a left or right hand turn in the air. Is this normal? Funnily enough adjusting the collars fixes it but then the steering gets really lazy.
I am running the stock 10 degree front camber block and have ordered a couple of the 5 degree ones so that should make the steering a little more aggressive again but don't know if they'll arive in time for the 5th and I want to give stock a go. I feel like I am missing something. Surely those windy things are not the only things to fix these issues but it makes it so I can let go of the trigger to bring the nose down or keep it down to get it up.
Any ideas?
Ant
a little difficult to diagnose without watching in person.
Banking left/ right off jumps: usually this happens if you hit a jump at an angle or with the wheels turned as you leave the jump. Its pretty easy to get crossed up on the jumps after the esses - trick through here is to back off a bit so you dont get much air off these, but keep the steering straight as you leave each ramp.
Dramatic nose -diving / spring preload: As Brett said, its not the preload but the ride height which matters. Try to keep the car level front to rear or the handling can go away.
To fix nose diving, you can try making sure you accelerate up the face of the jump and back off just as you leave the ramp. Usually having the rear too low causes a nose down, which is why the problem you are having is a little strange, especially as when I have driven 22s the jumping seems to be their strongest point. Check the team setups on the net (or the ones posted by Bezerk a while back) to make sure you arent too far left field.
Hopefully getting others watching you (even better, see if you can get someone to video you around the track) will help you sort it out.
Ray
01-22-2012, 09:01 PM
Hey Ant,
a little difficult to diagnose without watching in person.
Banking left/ right off jumps: usually this happens if you hit a jump at an angle or with the wheels turned as you leave the jump. Its pretty easy to get crossed up on the jumps after the esses - trick through here is to back off a bit so you dont get much air off these, but keep the steering straight as you leave each ramp.
Dramatic nose -diving / spring preload: As Brett said, its not the preload but the ride height which matters. Try to keep the car level front to rear or the handling can go away.
To fix nose diving, you can try making sure you accelerate up the face of the jump and back off just as you leave the ramp. Usually having the rear too low causes a nose down, which is why the problem you are having is a little strange, especially as when I have driven 22s the jumping seems to be their strongest point. Check the team setups on the net (or the ones posted by Bezerk a while back) to make sure you arent too far left field.
Hopefully getting others watching you (even better, see if you can get someone to video you around the track) will help you sort it out.
Ray
a little difficult to diagnose without watching in person.
Banking left/ right off jumps: usually this happens if you hit a jump at an angle or with the wheels turned as you leave the jump. Its pretty easy to get crossed up on the jumps after the esses - trick through here is to back off a bit so you dont get much air off these, but keep the steering straight as you leave each ramp.
Dramatic nose -diving / spring preload: As Brett said, its not the preload but the ride height which matters. Try to keep the car level front to rear or the handling can go away.
To fix nose diving, you can try making sure you accelerate up the face of the jump and back off just as you leave the ramp. Usually having the rear too low causes a nose down, which is why the problem you are having is a little strange, especially as when I have driven 22s the jumping seems to be their strongest point. Check the team setups on the net (or the ones posted by Bezerk a while back) to make sure you arent too far left field.
Hopefully getting others watching you (even better, see if you can get someone to video you around the track) will help you sort it out.
Ray
As I said to Brett, I've never even considered a measured ride height so that's a good starting point. I started taking a closer look at Paul's and this guy from the US's (Casey) rough, hard packed, outdoor setups so had to google kick shims, spindles, bump steer, roll centre and anti squat. I enjoy taking it apart and putting it back together so that'll be fun at least.
Thanks for helping, hopefully the other newbies with 22s are looking....
It's nice to race against other brands yeh? Can't all have AEs can we?
Ant
01-23-2012, 04:58 PM
Hi, I'm looking to get a transponder. Is the below compatible with Knox and Keilor? I don't want a hole in my new body. It's a Ptx Peronal Transponder (Mrt Ptx10) for use with all AMB RC auto count systems.
http://www.nbhc.com.au/products/PTX-...ANSPONDER.html
http://www.nbhc.com.au/products/PTX-...ANSPONDER.html
01-23-2012, 05:40 PM
You can get the mylaps from http://www.mylaps.com/index.php/aust...standard_offer
MYLAPS Asia Pacific Lty Ltd
Suite 3/292 Princes Highway
Carss Park NSW 2221
Australia
Phone: +61 (0)2 9546 2606
Fax: +61 (0)2 9546 2631
[email protected]
Also when you order if you want you can get addional holders but you need to contact them and they can send you a invoice for the total. (holders are not in the shop site think they are $7-8 for 2)
MYLAPS Asia Pacific Lty Ltd
Suite 3/292 Princes Highway
Carss Park NSW 2221
Australia
Phone: +61 (0)2 9546 2606
Fax: +61 (0)2 9546 2631
[email protected]
Also when you order if you want you can get addional holders but you need to contact them and they can send you a invoice for the total. (holders are not in the shop site think they are $7-8 for 2)
01-23-2012, 06:04 PM
Hi, I'm looking to get a transponder. Is the below compatible with Knox and Keilor? I don't want a hole in my new body. It's a Ptx Peronal Transponder (Mrt Ptx10) for use with all AMB RC auto count systems.
http://www.nbhc.com.au/products/PTX-...ANSPONDER.html
http://www.nbhc.com.au/products/PTX-...ANSPONDER.html
01-23-2012, 06:17 PM