warex

Yes Tower hobbies has the Ver1.1 Bevel gears same part number as old

414m2

hey everybody,

I have recently bought a pro4 and would like to ask some questions.

I got the new kit version which also includes:
- V1.1 gear sets
- Purple Alu One way gear Brace
- Universals (like tamiya ones) instead of CVD's
I think thats it.

I have encountered a few problems while building the kit:

When building the diff I used Ceramic diff balls instead of the carbide ones and for some reason when i put the diff together it wasn't smooth. As you spun the diff it was loose then tightened up then went loose again and so on. I rebuilt the diff again and again but it made no difference. Has anybody experienced this before or may know what is causing the problem?

The other problem which i have seen before on other cars is that the rear diff's bevel gear wabbles left and right which caused uneveness in the drivetrain. To get rid of the uneven binding i shimmed the bevel gear further away from the smaller gear. Does anyone know how to fix the wabble in the diff gear?

One last thing, After completing the car, putting the wheels on and giving it a revv the front left one-way outdrive wabbles or moves in and out causing a vibration and a clicking noise. When you break to let the front wheels spin the vibration is more apparent. Could it be the diff is not sitting flush? The right side's outdrive is perfect. Could it be a warped outdrive or something wrong with the one way itself?


If there is anything else i find that causes trouble or is interesting I will post it up.

Thanks

TheRaven

iTrader: (-1)

hey guys i am just letting yours know that my pro 4 is up for sale in the for sale forum
thanks

VenomWorldOrder

bummer about he cdc's ay! they include one thing and exlcude another

the wobbling could be the bearings on wither the hud or oneway not seated properly

414m2

heya,

Yeah i was kinda hoping that i got the original kit...i even bought a spare cvd bone now i can't use it. But are CVDs BETTER than universals or not? i have never used Cvds before only unis on the 414. Maybe its worth buying the CVDs as well.

The wabbling diff gear seems to be normal on other pro4s as i asked some people.

Maybe i need the special pro one-way grease for itthe outdrive to run smoothly. I asked someone else that did well with the pro4 and they said it happened to them as well for periods of time then went away... I think ill just run it and see how i go then panic later.

I put the car on the road for a little spin and it was very, very smooth and didnt seem to have any problems. I was concerned that i didnt have enough steering angle lock because of limitations of the horn hitting the top of the servo but the car seemed to be alright cornering wise and i havnt even set the droop or ride height yet.
Can't wait to hit the track.

thanks

VenomWorldOrder

i've just installed the 1.1's at the rear. i've needed to move one washer to the front.

my configuration of washers is now;

spur/bearing 3 silver washers, ..../NOTCH SEPERATING BEARINGS/..., silver washer/bearing/ crown gear.


like coxy saifd in a previous post though. if you have no stripping issues. don't try it as it might bugger up your setup.

VenomWorldOrder

,

VenomWorldOrder

new shimming. iwth this shimming the drivetrain is dead smooth, with no highspots.

i left the front gears that i have been running since initial build. it rolls of the table. lets see if it hold up like this during racing.

TheRaven

iTrader: (-1)

well guy whats a pro4 worth as ready to run theses day it about 2 month old with two raceing meetings on it

VenomWorldOrder

what's the point selling a car so brand new? talk about "throw away society"

you know surikarn, gets a new mtx3 every 2 meets.....he's sponsored though!

azenis

ill give you $200 for it

DiscoStu

I’ve just ordered a Pro 4 from Tower Hobbies so it will be interesting to see what actually turns up. The picture on the website is the computer generated one and not a photograph, but after reading the technical specs I pressed the “I just want one” button. Now I’m just a little worried as to what will actually turn up. Some parts that should be standard are listed on Tower’s site as optional extras (like the wheel hexes and threaded shocks) It has been mentioned on this page that the new version comes with the aluminium one way and upgraded gears which would make sense but not the purple MIP’s. Depending on what drive shafts I end up with I won’t be too concerned as I still have a Pro 2 that just loves eating those purple MIP’s for breakfast (no front one-way plus car probably set too low). When the Pro 3 came out I ordered one from Rainbow Ten and what arrived was a “Spec” version that was unique to Japan. It had plastic fixed linkages instead of turnbuckles, no threaded shocks and very few purple parts. Nothing is the same as picking a kit up from a shop and being able to check out all the bits but when you can get one for two thirds of the price from overseas I guess you just have to pay your money and take the chance. All I do now is wait and see…Disco.

VenomWorldOrder

the pro4 is a good car. it's essentially the same as the evo3 surikarn. same sort of hopups, but better plastic quality in my opinion.

most people say "no options needed" but who really does that! i've got the HPI carbon fibre driveshaft, it hasn't twisted with a hacker 6t, the square alloy camber mounts, hpi alloy servo mount.

the toe in blocks are essential. 1 degree through to 3.

Mossie

Anyone got a good setup for the Pro4 at Eastern Creek or Forrestville. Ive always battled for setup at these tracks and Im racing at Berkley on Sunday and they say the tracks are similar.

Or should I just got back to box setup?

Cheers,

Mossie

VenomWorldOrder

go box and test it with without swaybars. also play around with the angle of the rear shocks. more upright will give better exit steering.

also if you have time as a last thing type setting play with the angle of the camber links. if you find the tires wear out on the outside more than inside, and you are running a crazy amount of camber, take out the purple shims on the camber links