Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Team Durango DEX410

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-02-2010, 12:32 AM
  #646  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
bender's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,504
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

Good to hear they are doing that. Can we assume that the aussie distributor will be honouring this too?

I haven't had any issues with drive pins but i'd like to upgrade just for peace of mind.

How is everyone going with setups? I must admit I am struggling with my car somewhat - I am having problems getting rear traction, which is somewhat concerning considering the track i run on is a bout 50% astro turf

Has anyone tried adding a lot of weight to the car around the cells? I was thinking of getting the Azarashi Fettera body and undertray so I could line the side of the undertray at the back with weights, to make it feel like it had some nimh cells in there.
bender is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:01 AM
  #647  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,140
Trader Rating: 141 (100%+)
Default

I put around 60grams on top of my lipos and did squat.
hacker is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:06 AM
  #648  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,140
Trader Rating: 141 (100%+)
Default

I reckon all the bodies for the durango look like crap.

personally I use a b44 body on mine. Just needs some trimming around the front. Plus gives you the extra clearance to use a heatsink and fan on the motor.
hacker is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:32 AM
  #649  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,227
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Bodies looks cool guys, got mine getting painted as we speak. they definatley are more roomy.

Adding weight does help i added weight to the rear where the mounts are next to the battery and defo helped.

Trick to the rango's are thick diff oils! that will solve your traction problem!

JK
Jarred King is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 02:07 AM
  #650  
1
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3,139
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

I'm stoked that TD are looking after us. That's huge cred for their status for me.

Those bodyshells, gumbut. They look like 1/8th scale shells. They kind of look good. The kit bodyshell is totally killer, although tight. The B44 shell is an ugly and dated block.
1 is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 05:23 AM
  #651  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: n.e. ohio
Posts: 892
Trader Rating: 8 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by bender
Good to hear they are doing that. Can we assume that the aussie distributor will be honouring this too?

I haven't had any issues with drive pins but i'd like to upgrade just for peace of mind.

How is everyone going with setups? I must admit I am struggling with my car somewhat - I am having problems getting rear traction, which is somewhat concerning considering the track i run on is a bout 50% astro turf

Has anyone tried adding a lot of weight to the car around the cells? I was thinking of getting the Azarashi Fettera body and undertray so I could line the side of the undertray at the back with weights, to make it feel like it had some nimh cells in there.
if you are useing the 2* hubs check them. toe in 2*, is w/ the r and l viewed from the front. mine were backwards, you really cant tell to look at it. makes a HUGE difference!
cbrociuos is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:15 AM
  #652  
1
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3,139
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

I'm no experts at set-up, but you shouldn't have trouble finding traction at the rear. I'd look at your set-up before adding weight.

Most of the weight is at the front on the Rango. So give the rear more traction with springs, shock position, and work back from there to tune to your driving style.

Also I find with the rango, if the back is over rotating, just throttle up in the corner and it pulls itself into shape.
1 is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 06:51 AM
  #653  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,140
Trader Rating: 141 (100%+)
Default

yeh thats it!

more time on the throttle, and less time off.
hacker is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 07:30 AM
  #654  
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
 
blade954's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,199
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

What is a good starting point diff WT wise ???
blade954 is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:36 PM
  #655  
1
Tech Elite
iTrader: (30)
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Sydney
Posts: 3,139
Trader Rating: 30 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by blade954
What is a good starting point diff WT wise ???
I started F10/R5, now at F20/R2. Both seem to work ok, the latter better for me.
1 is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 01:47 PM
  #656  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (20)
 
X5 Addict's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: St Ives RCCC
Posts: 3,991
Trader Rating: 20 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by hacker
I reckon all the bodies for the durango look like crap.

personally I use a b44 body on mine. Just needs some trimming around the front. Plus gives you the extra clearance to use a heatsink and fan on the motor.
probably the best look was the "Coke bottle" bodies they ran earlier on!!

Have you got pics with the '44 body mounted?
X5 Addict is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 04:30 PM
  #657  
Tech Master
iTrader: (25)
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,227
Trader Rating: 25 (100%+)
Default

Exactly what "1"said about not backing off. Compared to other EP 4wd cars ive had the rango loves to be on-power.

If you come into a corner and let go of the trigger the rear will tend to want to over-take and i think its due to the car pivoting onto the front wheels because all of the weight is in front of the centre slipper. If you just keep the throttle on during corners the car loves it and thats why the DEX410 is so much quicker around tracks. Adding weight to the rear helps stabilize the car mid air and exiting corners with traction.

Also id start with front 20,000 diff oil and rear 10,000. The car doesnt change much when you only adjust by small amounts in diffs. I went from 2,000 rear to 10,000 rear and didnt notice any difference really. So i went straight to 20,000 k rear and 50,000k front . This will help the car square up exiting corners and power can be applied much earlier.

JK
Jarred King is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 04:41 PM
  #658  
Tech Master
iTrader: (23)
 
blade954's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Perth, Western Australia
Posts: 1,199
Trader Rating: 23 (100%+)
Default

Thanks guys ill start at those weights and work from there.....
blade954 is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:16 PM
  #659  
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
 
bender's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Brisbane
Posts: 1,504
Trader Rating: 4 (100%+)
Default

hmm...i dont have any issues over rotating into the turns, its power-on exiting where this is no grip.

I have run 4k F / 2k R in the diffs up to 10k F / 10k R and was actually struggling to get steering from 10k in the front, a bit worried that 50k front will turn it into an understeering monster
bender is offline  
Old 06-02-2010, 08:40 PM
  #660  
Tech Elite
iTrader: (141)
 
hacker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vic, Australia
Posts: 3,140
Trader Rating: 141 (100%+)
Default

Originally Posted by X5 Addict
probably the best look was the "Coke bottle" bodies they ran earlier on!!

Have you got pics with the '44 body mounted?
I will post a pic when I put it back together in the next few days
hacker is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.