Tamiya mini thread
#316
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,549
From: Melbourne, Australia. Home of rc-mini.net
Scotty, as I understand it, the Tech 'conversion kit' uses the original M03 arms and uprights..and that's it!!! So the use of the word conversion is dubious at best.
I already have one of the Active Hobby cars fleagun, and its damn good actually.
We run the 4WD Minis at indoors only, I dont think its a good idea at all to introduce them into normal racing, unless they had a 'special' class. And to be honest, we probably have enough classes as it is.
The 4WD cars are just a bit of fun really. For racing it's M03's all the way..
I already have one of the Active Hobby cars fleagun, and its damn good actually.
We run the 4WD Minis at indoors only, I dont think its a good idea at all to introduce them into normal racing, unless they had a 'special' class. And to be honest, we probably have enough classes as it is.
The 4WD cars are just a bit of fun really. For racing it's M03's all the way..
#318
Originally Posted by ozoner
Can't see too many tamiya bits on the car?? So much for a "conversion" kit!
#321
The servo saver from the Tamiya Mad Bison is identical to the original M03/TL01 servo saver except it is made with stronger/reinforced plastic. It is dark grey instead of black. It is of course the same length. It can be further stiffened up by putting the outer spring of the Tamiya hi torque servo saver around it. The Tamiya Hi torque servo saver is commonly used but is shorter and causes more undesirable bump steer.
#326
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 108
From: Sydney
Originally Posted by shiston
How much do you tighten the TA03 ball diff for when using in the mini?
They can still come loose in operation after some time, so it's a good idea to check when rebuilding. You can also add an extra small coned preload washer to make a tighter action as an option.
Regards,
#327
Originally Posted by Matt Dall
Build it as per the instructions; So it should be done up "tight", not like any other TC ball diffs where you can adjust the pre-load/diff action.
They can still come loose in operation after some time, so it's a good idea to check when rebuilding. You can also add an extra small coned preload washer to make a tighter action as an option.
Regards,
They can still come loose in operation after some time, so it's a good idea to check when rebuilding. You can also add an extra small coned preload washer to make a tighter action as an option.
Regards,
Thank you for that
#329
Originally Posted by Z-Mann
if u use your mini everyweek, ball diffs r a waste of time and money ,a well constructed gear diff will be more consistant and last longer
Z-Mann is right though, ball diffs are expensive. With a normal gear diff, you have to loctite the three small screws that hold the diff together and lube the gears with anti wear grease. This stuff is sticky as and will slow the differential action and ultimately aid in getting the power down early when exiting corners. A ball diff will help on corner entry,and you will have a less chance at traction rolling but if you power out to hard you will wheel spin and therefore slow exit speed.
Personally i like a ball diff, but it comes down to the way you drive. Mini's are about throttle control.
#330
Thanks a lot! and sorry for my english...i´m from Colombia!




