Nitro Engine Break In
01-05-2007, 03:55 PM
#31
That's a bit of a harsh statement "Theundertaker" not to listen to anyone in Aust, I'm sure there are a number of guy's out there that know exactly what there doing and been in this hobby since Noah was a boy and to say there all wrong is quite wrong in itself. Iv'e used both methods and find they work well, but i like the idea of run the car on the ground from the word go during break in
01-05-2007, 04:09 PM
#33
Originally Posted by Theundertaker
My advice is dont listen to anyone in Australia or anywhere else for a break in procedure .Send an email to the Manufacturer of the engine and im sure they will give you a break in procedure that is suitable for their product .
Dont forget not all engines are made from the same materials some are cheap and some are expensive .
Example RB,Sirio,Os,Novarossi,Grp im sure they will all be able to help you and they might even have a procedure on their Website.
This is the best way direct to Manufacturer and forget the rest everyone has a different opinion and they are all probably wrong .
Or ask Factory sponsored drivers and mechanics who are part of the factory that are specialists like lomberto collari he has a website and a proper break in procedure im sure .
Dont be fooled by the Australian or Overseas Amatuars Who think they know it all as your engine wont last long
Dont forget not all engines are made from the same materials some are cheap and some are expensive .
Example RB,Sirio,Os,Novarossi,Grp im sure they will all be able to help you and they might even have a procedure on their Website.
This is the best way direct to Manufacturer and forget the rest everyone has a different opinion and they are all probably wrong .
Or ask Factory sponsored drivers and mechanics who are part of the factory that are specialists like lomberto collari he has a website and a proper break in procedure im sure .
Dont be fooled by the Australian or Overseas Amatuars Who think they know it all as your engine wont last long
HEY EVERY ONE DEAR ANGELO from team crobar IS NOW THUNDERTAKER ! lol
Mae Mae Mae lishen !
dont listen to the manufacturers they want your engine to wear out as soon as possible so you can buy a new one ..
Last edited by MassiveMods; 01-05-2007 at 04:20 PM.
01-05-2007, 04:26 PM
#34
Tech Fanatic
Man, i did not want to get involved, but after reading so much shit, im here now 
. Firstly, i've tried, hot, cold, on the track, on the bench, as per the manufacturer, etc. Some work well, and some dont work so well; for me, but not necessarily for others. The bottom line is that this is an inexact science. It's not like 1 + 1 which will always = 2. There are too many variables, to determine whether your engine wore out prematurely , due to poor break in or something else. Please, save your argumentative energies, and run it in how ever the hell you like. If your method works best for you, awesome. This is like trying to solve who killed JFK.
. Firstly, i've tried, hot, cold, on the track, on the bench, as per the manufacturer, etc. Some work well, and some dont work so well; for me, but not necessarily for others. The bottom line is that this is an inexact science. It's not like 1 + 1 which will always = 2. There are too many variables, to determine whether your engine wore out prematurely , due to poor break in or something else. Please, save your argumentative energies, and run it in how ever the hell you like. If your method works best for you, awesome. This is like trying to solve who killed JFK.
Last edited by Rody; 01-05-2007 at 10:57 PM.
01-05-2007, 04:43 PM
#35
Originally Posted by MassiveMods
In Response to Pro Racer
Hey guys i havent had time to read all the posts including Ron's break in which im sure is great god bless him !
So ill just answer with the way i recommend , if ive repeated info already said i apologise
Ok
Clean flush the motor
Fuel up with same fuel you intend to run on
Pre heat engine with hair dryer to loosten up ( tight motors need this)
Start and very quickly tune HSN to clean 2 stroke , not rich not lean just nice
Put it on the ground on hi traction surface and run the thing around up to half throttle, Cool BDC and repeat for say 4 to 5 tanks depending on the situation
By the 5th tank it will have done some 750,000 revolutions , its ready to to go hard .
Ok reason it has to be hot ? So the sleeve expands to operating temp, this relieves the piston of smashing into an un expanded sleeve and linishing its self. Its not heat cycling like in lapped iron engines that need to be conditioned, it does help settle the motor but with the materials used one hot run will do this, the repeated heat cycling is purely to condition the motor to its desired operating temps. Running in an engine cool will create a certain tolerance fit between the piston and sleeve, the problem is when you go to lean on it and it gets hot the sleeve now expands further and can create loss of power and blow by.. Not to mention TDC notch.
Second thing , take your temp gun , remove the battery and throw the little F$#KKER in the ocean . Learn to use your ears , they will tell you much more of whats going on with your donk ( engine)
Now whatever the engine likes to run at thats the temp its happy with.. There are too many variables from situation to situation to recommend a temp or a needle setting. Things that will change this are fuel type, pipe, tank, pressure line, tyres, body etc etc
So i hope this helps guys
Cheers MM
Hey guys i havent had time to read all the posts including Ron's break in which im sure is great god bless him !
So ill just answer with the way i recommend , if ive repeated info already said i apologise
Ok
Clean flush the motor
Fuel up with same fuel you intend to run on
Pre heat engine with hair dryer to loosten up ( tight motors need this)
Start and very quickly tune HSN to clean 2 stroke , not rich not lean just nice
Put it on the ground on hi traction surface and run the thing around up to half throttle, Cool BDC and repeat for say 4 to 5 tanks depending on the situation
By the 5th tank it will have done some 750,000 revolutions , its ready to to go hard .
Ok reason it has to be hot ? So the sleeve expands to operating temp, this relieves the piston of smashing into an un expanded sleeve and linishing its self. Its not heat cycling like in lapped iron engines that need to be conditioned, it does help settle the motor but with the materials used one hot run will do this, the repeated heat cycling is purely to condition the motor to its desired operating temps. Running in an engine cool will create a certain tolerance fit between the piston and sleeve, the problem is when you go to lean on it and it gets hot the sleeve now expands further and can create loss of power and blow by.. Not to mention TDC notch.
Second thing , take your temp gun , remove the battery and throw the little F$#KKER in the ocean . Learn to use your ears , they will tell you much more of whats going on with your donk ( engine)
Now whatever the engine likes to run at thats the temp its happy with.. There are too many variables from situation to situation to recommend a temp or a needle setting. Things that will change this are fuel type, pipe, tank, pressure line, tyres, body etc etc
So i hope this helps guys
Cheers MM
use fuel with higher content of oil. or fuel you intend to run with but ritchen slightly(with higher nitro fuel), idle to half throttle variations with a few blips in between to stop from fouling up for about 3min so engine runs at operating temp, shut it down and let it cool (make sure piston is not at tdc). repeat for 3 to 5 tanks gradually giving it a bit more after the 2nd or 3rd tank.after 3 to 5 tanks you should be good to go, tune your engine to perfection and have some fun. the same guide lines as running in any engine which has been used for years. its just that every one has thier little things that they do
Really, Are you sure 
01-05-2007, 05:09 PM
#37
Originally Posted by aus jd 2703
i gotta say although ur right about variables, the heat needed to heat cycle and engine will always be the same as most high performance engines are abc or aac so to heat cucle them you will need so much heat which means a temp will be needed.
im 17 so i could be wrong but i understand when u heat treat metal as long as its the same metal (like most engines are) then the same heat is needed.
i come from junior drag racing where we have the option of exhaust temps and let me tell u head (at the glow plug) arnt visible enough to be a tuning gauge an exhaust temp will tell u the richness or leaness of an engine so i think every one is temping the wrong end but u cant really temp and exhaust in an rc car so thats life.
ull be interested that head temps are similar with my drag car (bout 250's farenheight at idle) and thats 750's f at exhaust and a change of 60's can loose .11 of a second over 1/8th mile. so u see why exhaust would be better? and it can be done (30 gram sensor)
most 'americans' say u need 200's farenhight before u turn the engine over other wise the friction can ruin the piston and sleve so i think that makes more sense than worrying about 10's celcius running temp.
im saying this from my understanding of metal and heat transfer and also racing back ground i have only ever owned one nitro cr and i wore the engine out in 2 litres (air cleaner came off).
im 17 so i could be wrong but i understand when u heat treat metal as long as its the same metal (like most engines are) then the same heat is needed.
i come from junior drag racing where we have the option of exhaust temps and let me tell u head (at the glow plug) arnt visible enough to be a tuning gauge an exhaust temp will tell u the richness or leaness of an engine so i think every one is temping the wrong end but u cant really temp and exhaust in an rc car so thats life.
ull be interested that head temps are similar with my drag car (bout 250's farenheight at idle) and thats 750's f at exhaust and a change of 60's can loose .11 of a second over 1/8th mile. so u see why exhaust would be better? and it can be done (30 gram sensor)
most 'americans' say u need 200's farenhight before u turn the engine over other wise the friction can ruin the piston and sleve so i think that makes more sense than worrying about 10's celcius running temp.
im saying this from my understanding of metal and heat transfer and also racing back ground i have only ever owned one nitro cr and i wore the engine out in 2 litres (air cleaner came off).
Well said man, you got your head on right for 17 , ive always wanted to drag man.. I got stuck with little cars you cant get into lol
I guess we have an eaiser time with little engines as opposed to an expensive machine like a drag car. tuning is pretty simple on the nitro engines, lean it till it bogs under load then richen till it stops. We work on a different tuning principle because we have a much higher oil content than a Drag car, correct me if im wrong but do they still use a small amount of oil in the methanol based fuel to help with the ingectors ? Anyway these little engines are pretty tough and can be quite forgiving ..
01-05-2007, 05:25 PM
#38
what do you guys think about clutch settings for running in a motor, especially when running the motor in with the car straight on the ground first tank, the slamming from clutch engagement could possibly cause more damage than good.
Is their a different method for on road and off road, and what about a run in bench with the prop ect...
Is their a different method for on road and off road, and what about a run in bench with the prop ect...
01-05-2007, 05:43 PM
#40
jeezes how hard can it be ???common sense is really all that is needed.
if in doubt listen to ppl that hve a bucket load of experence
if in doubt listen to ppl that hve a bucket load of experence
01-05-2007, 06:12 PM
#41
Hey Floss good point, I guess the engine will be experiencing this once run in anyway but you could always ease off the clutch engagement to be more linear, or you can get it onto a bench with alfoil on the head to keep the heat in. The reason you drive it is to put load on the engine, this creates more heat.
01-05-2007, 06:15 PM
#42
JFK was sacked by the CIA because he refused to sign a bill to approve a planned war in Quantanamo Bay.
01-05-2007, 06:27 PM
#43
hey mark need som benzina
01-05-2007, 06:29 PM
#44
Well come to my shop Deniz ! lol
Im here till 3 if you wanna pop past ..
Im here till 3 if you wanna pop past ..
01-05-2007, 09:45 PM
#45
I've just run in 2 OS Tz's that have been modded by Massive Mods, and have used his method
I think THE most important thing is as Massive says "Preheat the engine" I use a heat gun and get the motor up to near 100 deg C before I put it on the starter box. This stops it "pinching" at TDC
Good luck!
I think THE most important thing is as Massive says "Preheat the engine" I use a heat gun and get the motor up to near 100 deg C before I put it on the starter box. This stops it "pinching" at TDC
Good luck!