Kody

iTrader: (9)

Franko,

Looks like the new and approved Petit RC is up and going again!

Link to IIC setup. http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/arc/...Vegas20141018/

This is a good starting spot for long shocks. Maybe add 1.3 rear bar and go to 2.5 deg of rear toe.

For short shocks I'd start with Xray 2.5-2.8 front spring and Xray 2.6 rear spring. Also 1.3 rear bar and 3.5 rear/rear block to make 2.5 deg rear toe.

Then on the front blocks I'd go with the 3 split and 3 solid with -75 hexes and tune from there.

Hope that helps.

Kody

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Thanks man

blade072

iTrader: (98)

hi all...if anyone in australia is after a new arc15 with options and spares.....i have this for sale..........could post worldwide if required for a bit extra

thanks for looking
David


http://www.rctech.net/forum/australi...l#post14198344

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Received my Avid Aluminum chassis today. looks nice! i did notice a discrepancy with the FR (rear)suspension holes. The holes are spaced to wide to accept the designated rear separate suspension arm holders. Looks like Avid made the holes to match the RF suspension arm holders. So to sum it up, looks like i need another(front) set of front rear suspension holders to mount the rear up. ill have to compare geometry differences with the variance.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

There's another issue as well. If you widen the car up with the 1/3 split blocks or go too wide in the rear, the droop screws can hang off the chassis. Kind of a deal breaker there. That is going to require a redesign unfortunately. When we run the short shocks we typically use the 1/3 blocks up here.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

I wrote avid regarding their chassis design. We'll see what their response is.

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Looks like a revision of the avid chassis will be available in three weeks time.

Carnage9270

iTrader: (6)

Good to know, thanks Minh. Any idea what they will do for the people that bought the old version? With my wide setup I have a feeling my droop screws will destroy the edge of my chassis over time...

Nm, just read hobby-squares Facebook post. They are going to replace them all.

Good info on it here:
https://www.facebook.com/hobbysquareusa?fref=nf

kingtito

iTrader: (2)

Can I use the 64p gears for mod or should I go with 48p?

witman69

iTrader: (2)

If anyone want to sell me their V1 chassis at a discount once the new one comes in, let me know :-)
I think it might work just fine for my 2013...BR Jerry

trigger

iTrader: (15)

Decided to pull my car off the shelf. It's been sitting there since The Reedy race with a blown dcj. Fixed that and set the chassis up. I hit the local asphalt track today to knock off some rust. Man it feels good to drive again. The R10 handled great! It was just a practice session and I needed to cycle batteries. But the car was flawless. I did install the new Floating system with zero issues. Ran pack after pack with good pace and consistent times. Cant wait to actually race again.

Pegasus1272

Hi to all, as the Arc R10 2015 is the first rc car that I have to assemble,I need a little help.
I started to assemble the car and when I arrived to the spur I noticed on the instruction manual its show that the three screws have to be near each other. And here is my question, because my logic tells that the screws have to be in separated with an empty hole. ( screw - empty hole - screw - empty hole- screw and empty hole).

Any help is appriciated and thank you.

I try to attached some photo with the spur how i think to suppost be assembled. And under the part there is the image how shows the manual, which in my oppinoin there is a mistake.

Thanks again

dont know if the picts were attached

Realtek

iTrader: (1)

Your got it right. Leave an empty space in between screws.

black juice

iTrader: (1)

2016 approaches very soon any info on any updates for our Arc R10.

Besercoe

iTrader: (9)

I don't believe there will be a new car this year.
I think we will see a new revised design early to mid next year.