bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

I have a Corba Pro Com 2000 lathe, which I understand that motor must turn way from me to "cut" the com, but I have to connect the slave motor backwards to get the the correct rotion to "cut", I have also connected one of my stock motors and the same thing. What am I missing here...

baih

you are correct that the motor must turn away from you. if you use a stock motor with locked timing , it will have to run in reverse. this means it will have 27degrees retarded timing. it will get real hot. the best way is to put the stock arm in a mod can and adjust the timing to zero.
i myself use a 12 volt motor. i just plug it into my power supply. but i am using a rivergate 30amp. i dont know if it will work with a 15amp or lower power supply. 12volt motor at www.hobbytalk.com

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Also, if you use a stock motor as the slave motor, it's also a good idea to run it on 5 volts instead of 12(& doing so is also easier on amp draw, so you don't need as much to run it). That's how I do it on my Cobra, I have a stock arm in a mod can at 0 degrees timing & connected in reverse polarity to an old PC power supply that has 5 volt leads on it(& mine has a 15 amp output at 5 volts), & it works beautifully....

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

What if you used a differnet cuting tool? that would cut the direction that it spins with a stock motor?

Do you have direction to convert a computer supply? I have many of this things at my disposal....

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

PS> I have no idea how to set the timing on a mod can. I do have one, I have to go dig it out of the trash

But how to set it to 0 degree timing...

bvoltz

iTrader: (44)

Ok, I have a mod can and bell end, I can insert a stock arm, and I see 0 on the can, but what on the bell end do I line up to 0 on the can?

Grizzbob

iTrader: (2)

Well, there is both a mark on the can(which it sounds like you've found) & on on the endbell, though it's harder to see. bBut the best way to think of it is that the timing mark on the endbell is exactly lined up with the screws that hold it onto the can(or very close to exact, it works fine to use the screws to line it up). And for the power supply, actually, I didn't have to convert mine, because it's an old AT-style one(already had a switch on it & doesn't require a load to be placed on it to get it working), so I just had to isolate the 5 volt leads & solder on some alligator clips to them to connect to the slave motor....