Edwin Pibal

iTrader: (1)

oooohhhhh 8)

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

Change of plans... It looks like I'll make it after all.

DARKSIDE

iTrader: (2)

Ive used this on my TC6.1 WC with a set screw, but on my TC6.2 I went with AE M2 x 0.4 x 4 BHC Screw part#31510

It works very well and the slop is completely gone

I used my body reamer to make the hole, and it took all of 5 minutes to complete

tleatham

I received and built my new TC6.2 last week, and have to say it's by for the trickest car I've owned to date. It's the first on-road car I've ever owned, built, or driven, so my opinions and assumptions may be completely wrong. I had a few problems like a few others in building the kit (partially due to unclear -at least to me- instructions). But I got it all together and set up using the stock setup.

Now I'm having problems getting it to even drive. The car will not go straight - at any speed. It will drive straight, than veer off either left or right. When I corrected, it would not go straight, holding a slight turn in the direction I would correct. I originally thought it was the brand new servo not centering, so I put in a new Savox 1251-mg. Same problem. Then I noticed even at slow (meaning as slow as I could make it roll) the car would sort of shimmy left and right as it went along, slowly turning the car back and forth. It looked like the steering was coming from the rear wheels, not the front. So I read the 52 pages on this post, glued the toe inserts into the hubs (wasn't sure of the degree I'd end up on) and did the set screw mod as well. Took out a lot of slop (almost none in rear, still some up front). Car still has the problem. Starting to get frustrated with the build, as I'm sure I'm doing something wrong. Car is on rubber tires (no name wheels and tires, probably not helping but I can't see it affecting the car to this degree).

This is my 6th RC car build, all the others being off-road and very successful. So I'm not a complete novice though some things are new to me. Any insight would be greatly appreciated. I shot a quick and dirty video of the problem in my garage, poor lighting and fuzzy camera (iphone compression) and will include a link:

www youtube com/watch?v=KLrphXsvVuU&feature=youtu.be

or search youtube 'Team Associated TC6.2 Tracking issue'

Thanks

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

The easiest way for you to fix this is to ask a local tc guy at the track for help setting up the steering. There could be twenty things wrong with it. As for the complexity of the build and the unclear instructions i built mine about 5-6 hours in a roller another two hours to solter it up and make it race ready. Its not a complex build however this being your first onroad car it may have been. The instructions to my knowledge are belive it or not some of the best ive read and most of the othet guys at the track agree. Like I said above ask an experienced person for help trust me we want to see the tc class grow.

AM03GT

iTrader: (13)

+1 on getting local track help...

You mentioned this being your first TC so i'll make a bold assumption you've never dealt with tweak, weight balancing, roll bar adjustment... these are tuning features that are for the most part unnecessary with an offroad vehicle... a mm can make your TC drive crazy. Chances are you just have a tweak in your setup somewhere a shock is a bit too pre-loaded or your roll bars are un-even, etc, etc ...

Edit: just watched the video
1) your floor is probably not flat and you are driving on 2 different sides of a seam which may or may not be the same height on either side
2) the floor is very dusty as evidence by the nice coating on the tires so its safe to the say the dust coupled with the floor means the tires are getting a different amount of traction at all corners at all times
3) it's just a bit but your front wheels look a bit "wobbly" which would lend the front to steer itself...
4) if you aren't steering with the transmitter at all in the video i'd say it's even more apparent that it's the floor as the car veers mainly to the right but a little to the left too in the middle of the "run" usually a tweak or a bind in the car pulls to one side only and not back and forth... the only time i've seen a car with issues go left and right is when there are radio glitches... However it's still veering right overall which means there is still a tweak somewhere...

tleatham

Thanks for the response. I deffinately will visit the track, though unfortunately there are only 2 that I know of in the East Valley, Phoenix area, one of which hasn't done races since November says their thread. And they're both parking lots. Honestly tc was the worst class for me to build as it's mostly off-road here (that I know of). I just have wanted one for a while, and this one was very pretty haha. And as far as the instruction manual, the biggest problems I had were the diff build and the cam setup/tensioner setting. The diff build instructions are not the same as the exploded view in the back (shims were doubled inside diff vs. one inside and one outside), and the parts I recieved were as described in the exploded view (different sized shims). The cam and tensioner on the diff seemed backwards to me, and I swapped it around enough times I don't remember if I had it right the first time or not. Haha. Maybe I was confused but these 2 parts really slowed me down, as I really was trying to be careful. Took me 5-6 hours to complete the roller as well. Hopefully I get it figured out, so I can get racing. And maybe one day on a trip to disneyland or something I can bring the car and get some time on a real track!

Thanks again,

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

Well even an off road guy should be able to help you with the steering. Its essentially the same for offroad. As for the cams just try and make them fairly loose but not too loose because they will not work as efficienly. Lots of things are hard to explain pm me and ill explain it a bit better if you want.

tleatham

Thanks for the reply. Your very correct in assuming I don't know much about tc related problems. I do know some things about rc though, so I think I got some of the basics. Roll bars are good, have those in off road haha. Suspension is smooth and even. Haven't done much weight balancing as I can't even get it to drive straight yet.

As for the video, I know it's bad quality and I'll try to get better footage up. I was trying to show the side to side wobble, not the general drift, which at that speed and how much it was going back and forth seemed fairly alarming to me.
I positioned it on the seem to give a reference to the side to side motion. You are right that the tires do have some wobble to them. Maybe this is the root of all my problems but I just can't believe it's affecting the handling at all speeds to the extent of my problems. And point 4 nails the problem. It's not a glitch, electronics are all proven. It shimmies around that much (if you watch closely it almost shakes left and right) like that even at such low speeds. It does it on the asphalt on my street, my drive way, sidewalk etc. So the floor isn't helping but I don't think that's it. And if it is I'm in trouble because I'll be racing on a parking lot haha.

Do you think the small wobble in tires can cause THAT much steering, at that low speed? These on roads are sensitive but I had no idea that they could be that twitchy. I plan on getting real tires for racing but was hoping that for puttsing around and tweaking initial setup in front of my house would have been ok with cheap rubber I was going to burn up real fast.

Again thanks for the help. I'll get to a shop that has some road guys ASAP and see what they think. Hope I don't sound like I'm trying to be a know it all, really trying to see if my assumptions and guesses are on target or completely stupid haha.

Thanks

tleatham

Thanks for the help.
I'm concerned I've overlooked something or built something incorrectly so there's to much play in the steering or who knows what. I may disassemble (after I have someone look at it) and rebuild parts to see if something's incorrect or misaligned. I may try to take a cleaner video and perhaps one at speed to demonstrate my problems with more... severe consequences haha.
As far as the cam position goes I am guessing that that's for either center of gravity adjustments or maybe efficiency in the drive train? And the tension of the belt would be for the efficiency and maybe response to power, so tighter would be efficient as long as it's not too tight (binding, slower throttle response, excess heat, failure) or too loose (skip teeth, slip off gear, sloppy power delivery, failure)?

Thanks again! I don't know how to pm so I'll look into that, and hope I'm not hijacking the tc6.2 thread. I was hoping someone else had this problem and already figured it out but I guess I'm the lucky one.

Thanks,

thecaptain

iTrader: (177)

Well the belt thing, i am not an expert on however I am told that I running the belts looser makes the car "free er" which is more efficient than running a tight belt. I agree with the other guys get a decent set of tires, and make sure they don't wobble. It could be a multitude of things like I said before. Just keep trying.

mschumi101

iTrader: (30)

What radio system are you using? Because I know that some receivers don't work well with high powered servos, such as the savox you have installed, and need an additional glitch buster to work properly. I had a similar problem with my savox using certain spektrum receivers. It would shimmy side to side (never centering) and then would not steer linearly at all. Once the glitch buster was added it was all okay. Sounds very similar to what you have described.

YoDog

iTrader: (28)

I thought I'd point out that the rear end shimmy is normal at slow speeds due to the toe in angle of the rear tires. This will go away at higher speeds. If you have too much toe out in the front, it will not track well either. If the steering assembly is loose, it will not track consistently. Something I see often is that the droop screws are not allowing the the suspension to "float". Meaning that they are extended so far below the arms that they are fully extending the shocks. I have found that screwing the eyelet on the shock shafts about 1mm from fully threaded will help as they are a little better off due to the extra extension. Droop screws are new for an off road guy and are sometimes misunderstood and misused.

tleatham

Thanks for all the responses!
The slow speed shimmy as you describe does make sense in regard to the high amount of toe in the rear. I'll check the droop, have it set to factory setup. I'll look at it and see if I made a mistake and/or it's causing inconsistency. I do have droop adjustment on my Losi and my Rc8, so I'm familiar with it though it's not nearly as critical an adjustment as it seems to be with this car. Also will try the eyelet adjustment.
And as for radio equipment I'm running an Airtronics Mt-4 with an rx-471, and my ESC puts out 6v/3a. Radio has been bulletproof as far as glitches go. But my brother has a glitch buster laying around so won't hurt to try.

Thanks for all the suggestions! The local track is having a setup day this week, maybe I can call in sick and make it out cough cough.

tleatham

This is where my droop and suspension are at. Arm is fully lowered, and the suspension is fully extended. When it's all hooked up the droop screw is in contact with the chassis. Should I remove some droop and try to counter it with adjusting the ride height so it's not sitting on the chassis under no load, so it would only limit droop on say a turn or a rough patch of asphalt? I could thread out the eyelet but as you can see with this setup it has a mm or two of travel.
All the help is greatly appreciated and is very informative.

Also sorry for image rotation, I'll fix it if I can find out how haha.

Edit: A video of steering rack play. Is this a lot, and do I need to get done shins and try to clean it up?
youtu.be/yf-Gu7vKWHM