RENOV8R

That's my next step. I've got a bunch of leftover TLR links and balls that look like they might work really nice. But I keep thinking to myself, does a tiny bit of slop really make any difference? I've never in my life owned any car that had absolutely no slop.

mvrk28

iTrader: (2)

It's funny because some cars are actually designed to have a little slop and everybody tries so hard to get rid of it.

iScream

iTrader: (12)

I've been looking at different setup sheets and seeing .5mm changes in toe, or camber, or whatever which are supposed to make a difference in how the car handles. Then I look at my front wheels flopping around a couple full mm in every direction.

None of my other RC cars are completely slop free but none of them are anywhere close to this level. And that's with my RCShox bar installed. It's pretty ridiculous, in my opinion.

I raced my D413 on carpet last Sunday and I thought it was one of the best 4WD buggies out there. But I still want to tighten it up.

Torrance Deguzman told us in this thread that he purposely designed in slop, to simulate what the car will be like after breaking it in. Personally I think that was a bad decision. Sorry, Torrance, if you're even following the thread at all these days.

Torrance also told us that the car ended up with even more slop than he intended. To the point where he said he was shimming and such on his own car to reduce it.

-Chris

ISH

rundown of my buggy.
Orion 10.1
Orion 6.5
22T pinion
F7k,C100k,R5k

I have been running my buggy for a few weeks now and have noticed a considerable difference from other D413s at my track. it seems slower and less aggressive even agains others with similar set ups. granted i have only been into the hobby for a little over two months but something just isn't right. maybe someone can suggest things to look for to trouble shoot.

Chr1s

iTrader: (1)

Go ask the guys that have the car handling good at your track...

mvrk28

iTrader: (2)

With a 6.5 motor, you want to have your Final Drive Ratio around 10. Right now you are at 10.83, bump up your pinion to a 24t and that will get you really close to 10, 9.93. Also take a look at your speedo settings you can trying putting some timing on the motor as well.

ISH

it handles well its just doesn't feel as responsive.

ISH

i will give that a try my motor temps coming off the track are currently under 150*

Yeti AS3

iTrader: (77)

Ya...a 24 will wake it up everywhere. Orion 6.5 is like a 7.5

ISH

another question i have is how do you quiet this thing down a bit? i was at the reedy race and none of the hot bodies out there were nearly as loud lol its not that big of a deal just curious.

mvrk28

iTrader: (2)

if anybody is interested, I built an excel file for figuring final drive ratio that lists motor turns and desired fdr as well. PM me your email if you would like it

mvrk28

iTrader: (2)

Did you grease your ring and pinion in the diffs? I noticed that manual does not tell you to do it.

Also, if you're running drag brake it will be louder. I was talking to somebody at Tekin last week and he said Tekin drivers are running push control and 0 drag brake and it's quieter and easier on the drive train.

ISH

yup i put some tamiya aw grease on them. i run 0 drag as i think the car has enough already.

mvrk28

iTrader: (2)

Hmm, I know it is considered a noisy car. I'm not familiar with tamiya grease, I'm using Mobil 1 Synthetic grease in my build, I'll let you know what the sound is like after I run it tomorrow.

Sofa King

iTrader: (2)

I use an antenna tube slices to center them, find one that fits tight in the pistons, then drill out the center to fit shaft.