10LikesTLR TEN-SCTE 2.0 Kit Thread
05-27-2014, 04:11 PM
#6781
05-27-2014, 04:12 PM
#6782
I just put my MIP steering kit on (had the stock ones) and it did help with the binding at full compression.
I was wondering did you put the 2mm washers on the outer to get the same bumpsteer as dunfords setup? I measured and 1.5mm would be close as far as the height. But the inside would be different so I don't know how that would react.
I also put a .5mm under the steering linkage to prevent it hitting the Ackerman bar. (thanks for the tip cctech)
I was wondering did you put the 2mm washers on the outer to get the same bumpsteer as dunfords setup? I measured and 1.5mm would be close as far as the height. But the inside would be different so I don't know how that would react.
I also put a .5mm under the steering linkage to prevent it hitting the Ackerman bar. (thanks for the tip cctech)
While I was preparing my SCTE for the outdoor season, I noticed 2 things:
1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.
2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.
Thx!
1. When trying to compress the front shocks, at about 3/4 compression they start to bind up. I pinpointed the issue -- the inner front tie rod ends on the steering rack. They bind up as you compress the shocks. Curious if folks are using a different inner front rod end to allow free movement? UPDATE: - See MIP 13250 steering kit. MIP seems to have addressed the binding issue with dubro ends and beveled shims.
2. Steering endpont to the right cannot fully reach. This is due to the servo link hitting up against the drag/ackerman link. If anyone is aware of a remedy, let me know.
Thx!
05-27-2014, 06:49 PM
#6783
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
05-27-2014, 08:24 PM
#6785
Tech Regular
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
05-28-2014, 07:34 AM
#6788
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
05-28-2014, 07:58 AM
#6789
Not exactly, when you hit the jump the suspension compresses. For larger jumps where i'm really on the throttle, the rear suspension compresses all the way. When this happens, the binding happens and effectively puts on the breaks. This causes the truck to front roll and land on the hood. If i'm hitting a double or single, there is no issue and the truck is great.
05-28-2014, 10:13 AM
#6790
Still having some nose dive issues, but only on big triple jumps. Found out that when the rear is fully compressed, the driveline binds up. The tires completely lock up. I put some fuel tubing on the shock shafts to try and prevent full compression but that doesn't seem to be right. Any thoughts on what could be wrong? Can someone tell me if this is normal to have the rear end bind under full compression?
05-29-2014, 07:22 AM
#6791
When changing fluid in diffs, can you just unscrew one of the four screws that hold it together and patiently shoot it through there? Like will it sufficiently fill the diff? Two of my screws are stripped, so I can't open it, otherwise I'd take it all apart.
05-29-2014, 09:16 AM
#6794
05-29-2014, 11:20 AM
#6795
Use a small drill the size of the bolt and drill into the stripped head. Once you drill enough the head will actually fall off. Leaving the stud. When you get the top plate off the diff case, you'll see a small piece of the stud sticking out. Grab that stud sticking out with a pair of pliers and turn it out.