Tamiya TA05 Touring Sedan
#4261
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
RandomFellow:
Hi,
If you ran at CEFX today the track was just set up. it's always a little loose on a new layout. they might leave it up for a couple of weeks. make the changes Civic91 posted and go back Tuesday night (if you can) or Saturday & Sunday. I can't get back down for another month but usally make it down on Sunday's when I can.(I live about 190 miles away) it's a great track.
Civic91:
Hi,
Thanks for posting the link to the hubs. I'll add them to my order.
also thanks for your input on the G6. make I'll try one on the Ta05.
Thanks
Hi,
If you ran at CEFX today the track was just set up. it's always a little loose on a new layout. they might leave it up for a couple of weeks. make the changes Civic91 posted and go back Tuesday night (if you can) or Saturday & Sunday. I can't get back down for another month but usally make it down on Sunday's when I can.(I live about 190 miles away) it's a great track.
Civic91:
Hi,
Thanks for posting the link to the hubs. I'll add them to my order.
also thanks for your input on the G6. make I'll try one on the Ta05.
Thanks
#4262
Tech Apprentice
tao5
hi i was just thinking if someone could tell me the upsides or down sides of a tao5 over a ta04
thanks matt
thanks matt
#4264
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Originally Posted by snap_u2000
hi i was just thinking if someone could tell me the upsides or down sides of a tao5 over a ta04
thanks matt
thanks matt
#4265
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
Originally Posted by yyhayyim
A couple of guys have bought this kit and they claim it works really good. They own xrays and Mi2's, etc, and say this car is really good. I need a belt car, that is realiable and can handle Novak brushless 4.5, 5.5 power....can this car perform with this kind of power? I run on asphalt in sunny south florida, open mod, brushless...can the car handle the load or is this a kid's kit? I just never seen it untill some guys have told me its working great for them...thanks...
1.Tigthen the belts.4.5 motor has insane torque that will cause belts to skip
during hard accerlaration.i also install a TECH RACING graphite upper deck
because i found out there is a slight twicth on the chasis when the belts
are tighten too much.
2.Use aluminium or aloy diff joint as the plastic joint could not handle the
power of the 4.5 especially when the diff ring and diff ball heat up usually
after a few laps.This will cause diff slip.
3.If u are running front oneway,try to reduce the drag brake.Car tends to have slight spin out at the rear during high speed corner.I prefer running all round diff with less drag brake as the 4.5 has enough speed to roll the car during cornering.Anyway i feel the car is more stable with diff and does not reduce cornering speed.
good luck
#4266
Tech Apprentice
ta05
ok thanks for you help i will put that in to mind
thanks matt
thanks matt
#4267
Tech Regular
iTrader: (3)
civic91:
Thanks for the input. I thought Tamiya's blue and whites were rather stiff, comparable to a blue or purple from Associated?
TimXLB:
Next Saturday (6/10) they are starting a summer points series. Its every other week on Saturdays, with check-in by 3:30 p.m. and racing three qualifiers and a main starting at 4:00 p.m.
BTW, I just have to say that this car is FAST! It was just the whole "turning" part I was having difficulty with. However, I can say that this car, with the stock suspension, is one heck of a tough car (and I really pounded the snot out of it Saturday). No broken parts! Woohoo!
Thanks for the input. I thought Tamiya's blue and whites were rather stiff, comparable to a blue or purple from Associated?
TimXLB:
Next Saturday (6/10) they are starting a summer points series. Its every other week on Saturdays, with check-in by 3:30 p.m. and racing three qualifiers and a main starting at 4:00 p.m.
BTW, I just have to say that this car is FAST! It was just the whole "turning" part I was having difficulty with. However, I can say that this car, with the stock suspension, is one heck of a tough car (and I really pounded the snot out of it Saturday). No broken parts! Woohoo!
#4268
I would suggest anyone wanna do TA05 do this:
1. get TRF damper
2. get CVD
3. get graphite chassis and A/K part
That's must have for TA05. Rest are depend on how you do your TA05.
Losing 50g off stock chassis is very very important. You will find the car is even more easy to control with 50g saved.
1. get TRF damper
2. get CVD
3. get graphite chassis and A/K part
That's must have for TA05. Rest are depend on how you do your TA05.
Losing 50g off stock chassis is very very important. You will find the car is even more easy to control with 50g saved.
#4269
Tech Master
iTrader: (14)
RamdonFellow:
Hi,
Yes I know about the point series. I'm hoping to make a few of them.
I work 2nd shift and usally don't get off until 2 or 3 am (I have to leave around 6 am to make it there by 9:30/10:00). I need all the track time I can get.
Hope to see you there
Thanks
Hi,
Yes I know about the point series. I'm hoping to make a few of them.
I work 2nd shift and usally don't get off until 2 or 3 am (I have to leave around 6 am to make it there by 9:30/10:00). I need all the track time I can get.
Hope to see you there
Thanks
#4272
Tech Addict
iTrader: (6)
Well, I have the Xenon, and it works pretty swell. Lightens up the whole car drastically! The only issue I kinda have would be it still uses the original front and rear braces so it's not all-carbony looking, but there's one benefit: The Xenon upper deck can be used with the stock chassis.
3Racing seems to have solved this problem with a 1-piece upper deck, in SG or regular CF colours.. it eliminates the whole link of bolts in the rear end, saving a bit of extra weight.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=16776
And, there's always the Flap version coming out, in all its Blue glory, albeit likely more expensive for it..
http://www.geocities.jp/hobbyshows/j...oka/rc/168.jpg and it seems much like the Xenon version with the plastic braces, so the upper deck may be usable on the stock chassis as well..
3Racing seems to have solved this problem with a 1-piece upper deck, in SG or regular CF colours.. it eliminates the whole link of bolts in the rear end, saving a bit of extra weight.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...ducts_id=16776
And, there's always the Flap version coming out, in all its Blue glory, albeit likely more expensive for it..
http://www.geocities.jp/hobbyshows/j...oka/rc/168.jpg and it seems much like the Xenon version with the plastic braces, so the upper deck may be usable on the stock chassis as well..
#4275
Tech Initiate
Hi guys, great thread you have here with a wealth of information. I have so far read 68 pages in 2 days, so Im learning as much as possible.
I race my ta05 on a very large outdoor asphult prepped track in australia. It consists of high speeds and flowing corners, and i have a setup for the car but would like to increase corner speed as that is where i think i am loosing time.
My Car:
3racing graphite conversion
tamiya high precision diffs F & r
Aramid Belts F & R
3 Racing Suspension
Very Hard Springs Front (from nitro car)
white Tamiya on road springs rear
Ellighi 26mm fronts 37shore
Ellighi 30mm rears 37shore
Novak 5.5r Gtb brushless
Graphite F & R shock towers
Aluminium hubs
My Setup
Front
-3.5degs camber
26mm foams 37shore
very hard springs
front diff medium tightness (not loose though)
Cant remember toe, ill check
aluminium 3 racing shocks
2 holes with 50wt losi oil
1mm droop
6.5mm ride height
Rear
-3deg camber
30mm 37shore foams
white tamiya onroad springs
rear diff very tight, before it breaks
Cant remember toe, ill check
aluminium 3 racing shocks
2 holes with 50wt losi oil
4mm droop
6.5mm ride height
I notice I am running huge amounts of camber compared to others. this is what i used to run on this track with nitro tourers. So i adopted this setup for my electric. Basically I want to increase cornering speed as the rest of the car feels good, but i am about 2 secs of lap record, and i think with this setup, i shoul be able to get within half a second of it, then id be happy.
Can anyone recommend a large outdoor asphult setup. Here is a pic of the track http://www.rrcsa.org.au/data/Track.pdf The track is at littlehampton, South Australia, Australia.
From what I have read, I might try running lower ride height to 4.5mm all round, run 3holes and miight try 40/60w oil front and rear. I also read on page 51 that a front spool may be a way for more corner speed.
Apart from this, im not sure what i need, so any advice on rollbars (which i dont have) front or middle oneways, and any other info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much and sorry for the long post. Ill post some pics of my car soon. Thanks guys!
I race my ta05 on a very large outdoor asphult prepped track in australia. It consists of high speeds and flowing corners, and i have a setup for the car but would like to increase corner speed as that is where i think i am loosing time.
My Car:
3racing graphite conversion
tamiya high precision diffs F & r
Aramid Belts F & R
3 Racing Suspension
Very Hard Springs Front (from nitro car)
white Tamiya on road springs rear
Ellighi 26mm fronts 37shore
Ellighi 30mm rears 37shore
Novak 5.5r Gtb brushless
Graphite F & R shock towers
Aluminium hubs
My Setup
Front
-3.5degs camber
26mm foams 37shore
very hard springs
front diff medium tightness (not loose though)
Cant remember toe, ill check
aluminium 3 racing shocks
2 holes with 50wt losi oil
1mm droop
6.5mm ride height
Rear
-3deg camber
30mm 37shore foams
white tamiya onroad springs
rear diff very tight, before it breaks
Cant remember toe, ill check
aluminium 3 racing shocks
2 holes with 50wt losi oil
4mm droop
6.5mm ride height
I notice I am running huge amounts of camber compared to others. this is what i used to run on this track with nitro tourers. So i adopted this setup for my electric. Basically I want to increase cornering speed as the rest of the car feels good, but i am about 2 secs of lap record, and i think with this setup, i shoul be able to get within half a second of it, then id be happy.
Can anyone recommend a large outdoor asphult setup. Here is a pic of the track http://www.rrcsa.org.au/data/Track.pdf The track is at littlehampton, South Australia, Australia.
From what I have read, I might try running lower ride height to 4.5mm all round, run 3holes and miight try 40/60w oil front and rear. I also read on page 51 that a front spool may be a way for more corner speed.
Apart from this, im not sure what i need, so any advice on rollbars (which i dont have) front or middle oneways, and any other info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much and sorry for the long post. Ill post some pics of my car soon. Thanks guys!