lawton70

My opinion of your choice is to get the car you feel most comfortable with.
For the price point I would think all the cars handle pretty much the same. For me, the choices were between the Sakura and S1. I chose the S1 because it was lower cost and I can get spare parts easily.
The E4J and RGT look like great cars to that I had not considered when I bought a car. If they were all side by side for the same price I would get the RGT. I like all the aluminum pieces it comes with that the S1 does not. RGT is a very similar design to the spec-r so I would expect similar performance.

mrjudd77

So an update. I finally got to open my new S1 on Christmas Day. Finished building it early this morning (some time around 3am) only had a couple of issues that I could solve from the parts of my old S1. One of the CVD's was threaded and I couldn't get the nut on it to keep my wheels on. Also there was 4x40mm and 2x35mm turnbuckles included when it is meant to be the other way around and the small turnbuckle was not threaded properly and kept stripping out of the end cap. Only need to get a new body and prep it for the First round in the new year.

Anyone know where I can get a good body cheap? I may need 2 to last through the year. I would prefer Protoform MazSpeed or BitiDesigns Nardo or Striker SR 2.0 or something similar.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

I have the S1 and am really happy with it. I race indoors on a low grip carpet. I've upgraded the servo mount and am looking at others. Which upgrades are recommended ? I've even considered upgrading the bulkheads and suspension mounts. On the otherhand I can get the R1 half price so am not sure what to do. I don't want to change anything for no benefit.

Italboy

For me the E4JSII would also make sense as we have a TM distributor, but, as I don't want to be like others, I want to chose an "exotic" car to be competitive with all the other common brands.
The S1 was my first choice (in terms of geometry and look), but seeing posts from others who had several issues and that the car is not made for low traction tracks i prefer take the Sakura.
RGT also looks very good, but the parts availability is also relevant point.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

If you could get an R1 for $150 I would just do that!

But for S1, I would suggest getting the Aluminum steering rack and the CV Swing shafts DJcvd's. I don't think there are any other upgrades that will increase your cars performance as much as these will. Maybe new ball cups.

Leave it cheap and stock.

.crispy

I have an S1 and a R1 and both are equally good on low grip carpet.

Italboy

hey, you all are gonna make me thinking about to take the S1

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=nrtv20;12846974]If you could get an R1 for $150 I would just do that!

Unfortunately not that cheap - £175 in the UK - full price is £350 over here ! Thats why alot of us buy from Hong Kong ! Probably not that much of a bargain but to buy alu bulkheads & suspension holders, as well as the steering rack comes to around $130 so I considered the new R1. I'm probably going to leave itas it is apart from the steering rack. How much better are the esc universals ?

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

I have the S1 btw; I've not seen a reason to add any of the aluminum bukheads to the car unless you want/like the bling factor. However I have seen on my friends car a turnbuckle pull out the ball stud from a plastic suspension holder but he is a complete rookie and took MANY hard side impacts because he was always on the boards and swerving.

I've run my car pretty much box stock for over a year and just put on the steering rack and like that change. The universals are just to remove front end chatter if you use a lot of steering throw. I don't have them just want them and consider the steering rack and universals as the top 2 upgrades for the S1 outside of adding sway bars.

I run 17.5 and USGT

.crispy

The only MUST have upgrade for me was a gear diff for the front. 1,000,000 wt oil and I get the best of a diff and a spool.

32819toon

iTrader: (1)

Hi - many thanks.

I already have the gear diff and run 500000 oil in for bit more turn in on our tight track. I think I'll just go for the upgraded steering rack. I've ran the kit one for almost a year now and recently had to add more shims as it started to get more slop, I'm guessing through wear & tear.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Alu arm mounts add precision to the build of the car. Not needed but one less thing to move or tear in a crash. All i have on my s1 otherwise is swaybars. I bought two stock swingracks for spares and tamiya ballcups. Never done anything that would break the rack in stock trim.
I wouldnt expect the alu one to slop less either. I might get a one peice servo mount though.
Honestly most of the durability issues ive had were ballcups or studs pulling out. I dont crash that often and never at speed.

nrtv20

iTrader: (9)

Agree nothing is really needed and I don't crash often either but I was pleasantly surprised at how the aluminum steering rack reduced slop in the front end.

Do the Tamiya ball cups fit better or just thread easier? I noticed the Spec-R ball cups are a little more sloppy on the balls then I would prefer.

(that's what she said)

Italboy

What's the part number of the Tamiya ball cups for the S1?

So the following items for the S1 are musts:
- alu steering
- alu floating servo mount
- alu hexes
- sway bars
And front drive shafts
Right?

Bappe

must have items should be swaybars and better ballcups (tamiya for example)

good to have:
alu hexes
servo mount

i would get these items first and upgrade later, if you crash alot it will become clear quite quickly what youll need