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Old 11-17-2015, 08:23 AM
  #721  
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How do 12th scalers set up their transmitter settings ,.....speed,....exponential,...dual rate
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:24 PM
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So what's the trick to getting CRC spur gears to work? Kimbrough works fine. But I'm guessing because of the smaller diameter balls in the CRC I can't get the diff to tighten down enough. I tighten it down as far as it will go but the gear spins freely.
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Old 11-27-2015, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Cosmo
So what's the trick to getting CRC spur gears to work? Kimbrough works fine. But I'm guessing because of the smaller diameter balls in the CRC I can't get the diff to tighten down enough. I tighten it down as far as it will go but the gear spins freely.
On some axles, when using a CRC spur gear along with the smaller 3/32 size diff balls, sometimes the diff nut can run out of threads before putting the necessary pressure on the thrust bearing. Thankfully it is an easy fix. Just put one or two axle shims on the axle after the diff hub but before the diff cone. Doing so will push the diff cone out just far enough so that the nut can reach and apply pressure on the cone before bottoming out and/or running out of threads. One other thing to look for.....Some diffs (notably AE) come originally with a flanged bearing for the center of the spur gear. When using CRC spurs and their smaller diff balls, it is usually necessary to replace that flanged bearing with an unflanged one.
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Old 11-27-2015, 05:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cosmo
So what's the trick to getting CRC spur gears to work? Kimbrough works fine. But I'm guessing because of the smaller diameter balls in the CRC I can't get the diff to tighten down enough. I tighten it down as far as it will go but the gear spins freely.
As vafactor said, you will have to change out the flanged bearing on the spur with an unflanged. I ran into this problem on my RR12 with IRS axle and CRC spur. Once the bearing was changed out, problem solved. I have since switched to Xenon spurs. So this is no longer an issue. 75T for 17.5 and 80T for 13.5.
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Old 11-27-2015, 08:25 PM
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Yeah. I have the non flanged bearing already. I was running CRC gears on my Roche so I had to do that. I'm going to have to order some axle spacers.

I've heard good things about the Xenon gears but I have so many CRC right now I don't have a good reason to switch.
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Old 12-03-2015, 08:06 AM
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I have a team prime shock.

I had a heck of a time getting 1.5mm droop for the car; we have a low traction track.
The only way I got that much droop was to have the shock collar way looser. I understand in low-medium tracks you should have a droop value around there.

However if the shock is looser I find that you pay a price in ride height. I have about a 5.2 mm ride height at the very rear and 4.2 ride height at the very front. I think the tires are trued to 42mm front and 44 mm rear. I had to have the ride height that crazy high so as to give me some room to work with when I was engineering the droop.

The middle of my car is about 3.4.

Is there a method I am missing in setup when getting the car's droop to that amount?

edit: Gonna check to see if the team prime shock length shaft can be altered. Must be it.

Last edited by irvinew; 12-03-2015 at 11:11 AM.
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Old 12-03-2015, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by irvinew
I have a team prime shock.

I had a heck of a time getting 1.5mm droop for the car; we have a low traction track.
The only way I got that much droop was to have the shock collar way looser. I understand in low-medium tracks you should have a droop value around there.

However if the shock is looser I find that you pay a price in ride height. I have about a 5.2 mm ride height at the very rear and 4.2 ride height at the very front. I think the tires are trued to 42mm front and 44 mm rear. I had to have the ride height that crazy high so as to give me some room to work with when I was engineering the droop.

The middle of my car is about 3.4.

Is there a method I am missing in setup when getting the car's droop to that amount?

edit: Gonna check to see if the team prime shock length shaft can be altered. Must be it.
Yes, you can change the shock length with different length ball cups. Personally, I wouldn't change the length of the shaft that is held in place by the set screw in the lower shock retainer. Just change out the ball cup that is screwed onto the retainer. That way, you can get proper spring tension and center chassis right height, and proper droop.
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Old 12-03-2015, 04:08 PM
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Just a quick tip with the Team Prime shock.

I tried various shock cup lengths (Jimmy Mac suggested) and still couldn't achieve the proper amount of droop. After various ball cups the the shock collar would end up being on it's last threads. So I ended up placing a spacer inside the shock body to limit shock travel. I think it was a 2 or 3 mm spacer. After that, it worked like a treat.

You also might want to look at getting your ride height within a few mm's.
Depending on the surface you're running I would look at 3.5 mm rear, 3.5 middle, 3.4 front.
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
Just a quick tip with the Team Prime shock.

I tried various shock cup lengths (Jimmy Mac suggested) and still couldn't achieve the proper amount of droop. After various ball cups the the shock collar would end up being on it's last threads. So I ended up placing a spacer inside the shock body to limit shock travel. I think it was a 2 or 3 mm spacer. After that, it worked like a treat.

You also might want to look at getting your ride height within a few mm's.
Depending on the surface you're running I would look at 3.5 mm rear, 3.5 middle, 3.4 front.
Just curious, was that with the Yokomo?
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:28 PM
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[QUOTE=rdecapio;14269123]How do 12th scalers set up their transmitter settings ,.....speed,....exponential,...dual rate[/see

Check out this video from one of our most helpful 1/12 scale enthusiast on RCTECH. ( check out all his helpful video's)
Prior to viewing his video on this, my most helpful radio setting was turning down my steering speed.

http://youtu.be/DaKeZd8cnMw
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rdecapio
How do 12th scalers set up their transmitter settings ,.....speed,....exponential,...dual rate
See above.....
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Just curious, was that with the Yokomo?
Hey, M.J.

It was with the Kyosho Ra and Yokomo R12. I think it all boils down to the rear damper stay plate length and front mounting position. With your RR12 I would assume there is a longer reach between the damper stay plate and front shock mounting?
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by EDWARD2003
Hey, M.J.

It was with the Kyosho Ra and Yokomo R12. I think it all boils down to the rear damper stay plate length and front mounting position. With your RR12 I would assume there is a longer reach between the damper stay plate and front shock mounting?
Yeah, with my RR12 I needed longer for certain shock positions. One of my racing buddies with a Yok switched to a Prime shock and had issues. Ended up, he needed a spacer inside like you suggested because he actually needed a shorter shock than what the Prime would allow. Otherwise, he would of had to back off on the shock tension and blah blah blah. hehe In the end it worked out.
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Old 12-03-2015, 06:51 PM
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[QUOTE=Fran;14291515]
Originally Posted by rdecapio
How do 12th scalers set up their transmitter settings ,.....speed,....exponential,...dual rate[/see

Check out this video from one of our most helpful 1/12 scale enthusiast on RCTECH. ( check out all his helpful video's)
Prior to viewing his video on this, my most helpful radio setting was turning down my steering speed.

http://youtu.be/DaKeZd8cnMw
Thank you for the kind words, however, there are experienced and highly knowledgeable guys on RCtech than I. That said, I'm just compiling these videos to help those who are just getting into or struggling with 1/12th scale racing. I too was just like you guys when I started racing 1/12th 2~3 years ago.

I personally leave the steering speed as is (*as long as it's not a super crazy high speed servo) I just tinker around with steering EPA and Exponential.
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Old 12-03-2015, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by JimmyMac
Yeah, with my RR12 I needed longer for certain shock positions. One of my racing buddies with a Yok switched to a Prime shock and had issues. Ended up, he needed a spacer inside like you suggested because he actually needed a shorter shock than what the Prime would allow. Otherwise, he would of had to back off on the shock tension and blah blah blah. hehe In the end it worked out.
Yeah, some aftermarket dampers will work, but you have to be careful in some situations.
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