24LikesAssociated RC 12 R5.2
07-21-2015, 12:46 PM
#707
Tech Master
Originally Posted by Ted Su(TW)
Is there a rear pod with CRC style adjustable ride height that can be purchased anywhere online?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
07-21-2015, 03:56 PM
#709
Tech Master
iTrader: (4)
Has anyone tried to run this car in the tranverse position not even sure you can. But it seems as though most of the newer cars run the car that way. Its funny because On the setup sheets it doesnt provide a section on which way you run the battery.
Just wondering
Just wondering
07-21-2015, 05:49 PM
#710
Originally Posted by Bubonic-X
Has anyone tried to run this car in the tranverse position not even sure you can. But it seems as though most of the newer cars run the car that way. Its funny because On the setup sheets it doesnt provide a section on which way you run the battery.
Just wondering
Just wondering
It's for sale if you're interested...
09-11-2015, 10:59 AM
#711
Tech Master
How do people use the rear side spring adjusters?? Do you thread lock the grub screw to the carbon, and then adjust with the alloy, or do you go R5 style and thread load the adjuster to the grub screw, and screw this in and out of the carbon?
09-11-2015, 06:07 PM
#712
Originally Posted by MattW
thread load the adjuster to the grub screw, and screw this in and out of the carbon?
10-30-2015, 10:02 AM
#716
Tech Master
Plate mounting face, to wheel face is 11.65. Not sure which irs one I have, but I'm fairly sure it's narrower than the ae kit item.
11-16-2015, 07:33 AM
#717
Tech Adept
I'm ripping apart my car and rebuilding; trying to learn an apply good setup theory but I'm kinda of confused on this car; You'd think 1/12 be simpler.
I'm good on basics such as free pod movement, tweak etc but I'm still confused on oils.
I decided to go back to what the kit manual says and try blue spring center shock and blue side springs. Kit says to use 1000wt oil for the side dampners to start, 30 wt for center shock and 30,000 wt for the front. Is this a good way to go for low traction? I see alot of 15,000, and 20,000 wt for side for I think that is for a different traction carpet.
Because I'm all over the map in handling it seems I figure to go back to basics and then as traction goes up, get to 10,000K. At best all I ever see even in a bigger race is Medium traction so its hard for me to go by setup sheets on petitrc; nobody seems to run low traction with this car.
Any thoughts?
I'm good on basics such as free pod movement, tweak etc but I'm still confused on oils.
I decided to go back to what the kit manual says and try blue spring center shock and blue side springs. Kit says to use 1000wt oil for the side dampners to start, 30 wt for center shock and 30,000 wt for the front. Is this a good way to go for low traction? I see alot of 15,000, and 20,000 wt for side for I think that is for a different traction carpet.
Because I'm all over the map in handling it seems I figure to go back to basics and then as traction goes up, get to 10,000K. At best all I ever see even in a bigger race is Medium traction so its hard for me to go by setup sheets on petitrc; nobody seems to run low traction with this car.
Any thoughts?
11-16-2015, 08:37 AM
#718
The 12R5.2 is a great all-conditions car, you can find a setup.
It sounds like you've got the basic mechanical setup down. Always keep track of the center football to be sure your pod movement isn't jacked after a hit. It's the 12R5's one vulnerability and has been since the original version.
Kit setup is a fine place to start, with just a couple changes.
Center spring: The AE blue is usually the right one. Get a CRC red (not the AE red--too stiff!), it's a bit lighter and can help the rear end stay locked down in lower grip conditions.
Side springs: the 12R5.2 lives in the black and green range in all cases. Try blacks to start. Let the car roll. Greens can be a nice option, particularly for Stock. The only issue is that they are big for the spring holders. I fit my green springs to a set of the older plastic spring retainers. Since I hit my alloy spring retainers with a dot of super glue to fix them to the threaded stud, that means I also change out the stud when going to greens. It's a grand total of $1.75 in extra parts.
I run SpeedMerchant green (thin) tube spooge always. I'm going to say it's 5K? Quite light. Pin spooge up front is whatever that's thick and damps vibration. 20K minimum.
The kit 0.020 front springs are a fine spring almost always. They do collapse, so keep extras on hand. They're cheap. Run them with a sliver (0.010") of silver showing below the knuckle.
1 deg. of front camber tends to wear the fronts flat just about everywhere.
After that, it's all tires and sauce. Am I right to think you're running WCICS? If so, you're on the specs. Try a 43/42 rear/front split to start. Sauce the rears for awhile--30 minutes at least. Sauce the fronts inside 1/3 for 10 minutes. Wipe before putting on the track. Adjust the front sauce through the day.
3.5mm ride height. Zero to 0.25mm center sag. 1mm travel-over-ride-height at the center.
AMR body.
That should be a stable, neutral 12R5.2.
It sounds like you've got the basic mechanical setup down. Always keep track of the center football to be sure your pod movement isn't jacked after a hit. It's the 12R5's one vulnerability and has been since the original version.
Kit setup is a fine place to start, with just a couple changes.
Center spring: The AE blue is usually the right one. Get a CRC red (not the AE red--too stiff!), it's a bit lighter and can help the rear end stay locked down in lower grip conditions.
Side springs: the 12R5.2 lives in the black and green range in all cases. Try blacks to start. Let the car roll. Greens can be a nice option, particularly for Stock. The only issue is that they are big for the spring holders. I fit my green springs to a set of the older plastic spring retainers. Since I hit my alloy spring retainers with a dot of super glue to fix them to the threaded stud, that means I also change out the stud when going to greens. It's a grand total of $1.75 in extra parts.
I run SpeedMerchant green (thin) tube spooge always. I'm going to say it's 5K? Quite light. Pin spooge up front is whatever that's thick and damps vibration. 20K minimum.
The kit 0.020 front springs are a fine spring almost always. They do collapse, so keep extras on hand. They're cheap. Run them with a sliver (0.010") of silver showing below the knuckle.
1 deg. of front camber tends to wear the fronts flat just about everywhere.
After that, it's all tires and sauce. Am I right to think you're running WCICS? If so, you're on the specs. Try a 43/42 rear/front split to start. Sauce the rears for awhile--30 minutes at least. Sauce the fronts inside 1/3 for 10 minutes. Wipe before putting on the track. Adjust the front sauce through the day.
3.5mm ride height. Zero to 0.25mm center sag. 1mm travel-over-ride-height at the center.
AMR body.
That should be a stable, neutral 12R5.2.
11-16-2015, 09:38 AM
#719
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by PutAwayWet
The 12R5.2 is a great all-conditions car, you can find a setup.
It sounds like you've got the basic mechanical setup down. Always keep track of the center football to be sure your pod movement isn't jacked after a hit. It's the 12R5's one vulnerability and has been since the original version.
Kit setup is a fine place to start, with just a couple changes.
Center spring: The AE blue is usually the right one. Get a CRC red (not the AE red--too stiff!), it's a bit lighter and can help the rear end stay locked down in lower grip conditions.
Side springs: the 12R5.2 lives in the black and green range in all cases. Try blacks to start. Let the car roll. Greens can be a nice option, particularly for Stock. The only issue is that they are big for the spring holders. I fit my green springs to a set of the older plastic spring retainers. Since I hit my alloy spring retainers with a dot of super glue to fix them to the threaded stud, that means I also change out the stud when going to greens. It's a grand total of $1.75 in extra parts.
I run SpeedMerchant green (thin) tube spooge always. I'm going to say it's 5K? Quite light. Pin spooge up front is whatever that's thick and damps vibration. 20K minimum.
The kit 0.020 front springs are a fine spring almost always. They do collapse, so keep extras on hand. They're cheap. Run them with a sliver (0.010") of silver showing below the knuckle.
1 deg. of front camber tends to wear the fronts flat just about everywhere.
After that, it's all tires and sauce. Am I right to think you're running WCICS? If so, you're on the specs. Try a 43/42 rear/front split to start. Sauce the rears for awhile--30 minutes at least. Sauce the fronts inside 1/3 for 10 minutes. Wipe before putting on the track. Adjust the front sauce through the day.
3.5mm ride height. Zero to 0.25mm center sag. 1mm travel-over-ride-height at the center.
AMR body.
That should be a stable, neutral 12R5.2.
It sounds like you've got the basic mechanical setup down. Always keep track of the center football to be sure your pod movement isn't jacked after a hit. It's the 12R5's one vulnerability and has been since the original version.
Kit setup is a fine place to start, with just a couple changes.
Center spring: The AE blue is usually the right one. Get a CRC red (not the AE red--too stiff!), it's a bit lighter and can help the rear end stay locked down in lower grip conditions.
Side springs: the 12R5.2 lives in the black and green range in all cases. Try blacks to start. Let the car roll. Greens can be a nice option, particularly for Stock. The only issue is that they are big for the spring holders. I fit my green springs to a set of the older plastic spring retainers. Since I hit my alloy spring retainers with a dot of super glue to fix them to the threaded stud, that means I also change out the stud when going to greens. It's a grand total of $1.75 in extra parts.
I run SpeedMerchant green (thin) tube spooge always. I'm going to say it's 5K? Quite light. Pin spooge up front is whatever that's thick and damps vibration. 20K minimum.
The kit 0.020 front springs are a fine spring almost always. They do collapse, so keep extras on hand. They're cheap. Run them with a sliver (0.010") of silver showing below the knuckle.
1 deg. of front camber tends to wear the fronts flat just about everywhere.
After that, it's all tires and sauce. Am I right to think you're running WCICS? If so, you're on the specs. Try a 43/42 rear/front split to start. Sauce the rears for awhile--30 minutes at least. Sauce the fronts inside 1/3 for 10 minutes. Wipe before putting on the track. Adjust the front sauce through the day.
3.5mm ride height. Zero to 0.25mm center sag. 1mm travel-over-ride-height at the center.
AMR body.
That should be a stable, neutral 12R5.2.
Good to know thanks! So I have AE green side springs and black though the black I think are Yokomo. I have a gold AE center spring on order; the spring rate of that seems to fit in line with CRC (10lb to 12lb)
So I'll leave my black side springs in and try 5000wt oil to start; progress higher when traction goes up; on a our club race that might be never. I'll leave the blue spring in with 30wt oil in it.
Yes I'm WCICS; Thanks for the help. Thanks for the tire diameter size; that was another question I should have asked.
11-16-2015, 12:50 PM
#720
Tech Master
iTrader: (43)
If any one is interested I have a new batch of 2mm chassis finished up for the 12r5.2 please pm or email me at [email protected]
This chassis is BRCA national champion as well as Multiple A main finishes in the US from mod to 17.5. The 2mm offers a lower center of gravity and reduced weight savings for the competitive 1/12 market.
Monti
This chassis is BRCA national champion as well as Multiple A main finishes in the US from mod to 17.5. The 2mm offers a lower center of gravity and reduced weight savings for the competitive 1/12 market.
Monti
