6LikesHPI Sprint 2 Mods
01-01-2013, 01:51 PM
#256
What I use, where I race, on the size track that I'm currently racing on and using with Novak Club 25.5 may not work for you...
My Current FDR CHART =
Currently I'm running the 4.09 (green box) FDR.
RED 43 column = I do not have that pinion yet so I can not run those FDR's yet.
The yellow boxes =
What was SUPPOSE to come as OEM and
What was on my particular S2 =
My S2 was a RE-BOXED/REFURBISHED car =
So, some of the parts & settings on my car when I got it were NOT OEM
One guy is running 3:56 (?) with his Novak 21.5BL Club/Edge combo in a Schumacher.
The 27T brushed guys are around 6.something
Last edited by Marv; 01-03-2013 at 11:15 PM.
01-01-2013, 06:11 PM
#257
Tech Rookie
Simple steering
1. Thank you for the thread. I have read the whole thing, and it is all great.
2. I race in a local series that is best described as "stock plus", we can remove, but cannot add. Stock electrics, stock diffs, stock chassis. You can replace the shocks and ball cups, but that is about it. However, you can remove things, so saving weight is the name of the game. One of the things I have done is remove all the steering slop while saving as much weight as possible.
It requires the following parts:
RPM ball end set (one pack is enough to do all the ball ends on the car)
6" 2-56 threaded rod
1 pair of 2-56 ball ends
Basic procedure:
Replace all the ball cups for the camber links, front and rear. Replace the ball cups on the link rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Replace the ball cups on the link from the bellcrank to the passenger side steering knuckle.
Loosen or remove the top deck, and remove the ackerman rod and drivers side bellcrank, as well as any additional parts attached. At this point, you should have no driver's side sterring, only a rod from the servo horn to the bellcrank, and bellcrank to passenger knuckle.
Attach the first 2-56 rod end to the bottom of the passenger steering knuckle arm using the further hole (the unused one) and thread in your rod. Here is the tricky part: since you are just using threaded rod, there is no adjusting the toe with everything attached. Measure the amount of rod you threaded into the first ball end, double it, and measure the distance between the end of the ball ends while the toe is temporarily adjusted. Trim your threaded rod, and attached it with the ball end to the driver's side steering knuckle.
To avoid the belt, you will need to attach it to the underside of the further hole, as well. All put together it should look like this:
farm9 staticflickr com/ 8494/8335312389_daa2a3fe2c.jpg <-can't post links, first post
It removes all the slack by taking the second crank out of the equation, and tightening up the ball cups. The only real downside is legality with your series, and the adjustment issues.
2. I race in a local series that is best described as "stock plus", we can remove, but cannot add. Stock electrics, stock diffs, stock chassis. You can replace the shocks and ball cups, but that is about it. However, you can remove things, so saving weight is the name of the game. One of the things I have done is remove all the steering slop while saving as much weight as possible.
It requires the following parts:
RPM ball end set (one pack is enough to do all the ball ends on the car)
6" 2-56 threaded rod
1 pair of 2-56 ball ends
Basic procedure:
Replace all the ball cups for the camber links, front and rear. Replace the ball cups on the link rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Replace the ball cups on the link from the bellcrank to the passenger side steering knuckle.
Loosen or remove the top deck, and remove the ackerman rod and drivers side bellcrank, as well as any additional parts attached. At this point, you should have no driver's side sterring, only a rod from the servo horn to the bellcrank, and bellcrank to passenger knuckle.
Attach the first 2-56 rod end to the bottom of the passenger steering knuckle arm using the further hole (the unused one) and thread in your rod. Here is the tricky part: since you are just using threaded rod, there is no adjusting the toe with everything attached. Measure the amount of rod you threaded into the first ball end, double it, and measure the distance between the end of the ball ends while the toe is temporarily adjusted. Trim your threaded rod, and attached it with the ball end to the driver's side steering knuckle.
To avoid the belt, you will need to attach it to the underside of the further hole, as well. All put together it should look like this:
farm9 staticflickr com/ 8494/8335312389_daa2a3fe2c.jpg <-can't post links, first post
It removes all the slack by taking the second crank out of the equation, and tightening up the ball cups. The only real downside is legality with your series, and the adjustment issues.
01-01-2013, 07:30 PM
#258
1. Thank you for the thread. I have read the whole thing, and it is all great.
Thanks to all the S2 owners and their contributions!!!
2. I race in a local series that is best described as "stock plus", we can remove, but cannot add. Stock electrics, stock diffs, stock chassis. You can replace the shocks and ball cups, but that is about it. However, you can remove things, so saving weight is the name of the game. One of the things I have done is remove all the steering slop while saving as much weight as possible.
It requires the following parts:
RPM ball end set (one pack is enough to do all the ball ends on the car)
6" 2-56 threaded rod
1 pair of 2-56 ball ends
Basic procedure:
Replace all the ball cups for the camber links, front and rear. Replace the ball cups on the link rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Replace the ball cups on the link from the bellcrank to the passenger side steering knuckle.
Loosen or remove the top deck, and remove the ackerman rod and drivers side bellcrank, as well as any additional parts attached. At this point, you should have no driver's side sterring, only a rod from the servo horn to the bellcrank, and bellcrank to passenger knuckle.
Attach the first 2-56 rod end to the bottom of the passenger steering knuckle arm using the further hole (the unused one) and thread in your rod. Here is the tricky part: since you are just using threaded rod, there is no adjusting the toe with everything attached. Measure the amount of rod you threaded into the first ball end, double it, and measure the distance between the end of the ball ends while the toe is temporarily adjusted. Trim your threaded rod, and attached it with the ball end to the driver's side steering knuckle.
To avoid the belt, you will need to attach it to the underside of the further hole, as well. All put together it should look like this:
farm9 staticflickr com/ 8494/8335312389_daa2a3fe2c.jpg
I can't get any variations of that link to work...?
<-can't post links, first post
Yeah, ya need 10 total.
It removes all the slack by taking the second crank out of the equation, and tightening up the ball cups. The only real downside is legality with your series, and the adjustment issues.
Thanks to all the S2 owners and their contributions!!!
2. I race in a local series that is best described as "stock plus", we can remove, but cannot add. Stock electrics, stock diffs, stock chassis. You can replace the shocks and ball cups, but that is about it. However, you can remove things, so saving weight is the name of the game. One of the things I have done is remove all the steering slop while saving as much weight as possible.
It requires the following parts:
RPM ball end set (one pack is enough to do all the ball ends on the car)
6" 2-56 threaded rod
1 pair of 2-56 ball ends
Basic procedure:
Replace all the ball cups for the camber links, front and rear. Replace the ball cups on the link rod from the servo to the bellcrank. Replace the ball cups on the link from the bellcrank to the passenger side steering knuckle.
Loosen or remove the top deck, and remove the ackerman rod and drivers side bellcrank, as well as any additional parts attached. At this point, you should have no driver's side sterring, only a rod from the servo horn to the bellcrank, and bellcrank to passenger knuckle.
Attach the first 2-56 rod end to the bottom of the passenger steering knuckle arm using the further hole (the unused one) and thread in your rod. Here is the tricky part: since you are just using threaded rod, there is no adjusting the toe with everything attached. Measure the amount of rod you threaded into the first ball end, double it, and measure the distance between the end of the ball ends while the toe is temporarily adjusted. Trim your threaded rod, and attached it with the ball end to the driver's side steering knuckle.
To avoid the belt, you will need to attach it to the underside of the further hole, as well. All put together it should look like this:
farm9 staticflickr com/ 8494/8335312389_daa2a3fe2c.jpg
I can't get any variations of that link to work...?
<-can't post links, first post
Yeah, ya need 10 total.
It removes all the slack by taking the second crank out of the equation, and tightening up the ball cups. The only real downside is legality with your series, and the adjustment issues.
Last edited by Marv; 01-03-2013 at 12:29 PM.
01-01-2013, 07:52 PM
#259
Tech Apprentice
I has a Sprint 2 sport with the R35 GTR body and have a lot of mods and will have a lot of questions as we go along. This is my first modern RC that has an aftermarket aside from an X-Mods car. I also have an early 80's Mauri Samurai. As of right now my Sprint is stock aside from a 3300mah nimh battery, Zip ties holding on ESC+switch, and some drift wheels that came off a Sprint2Drift Mustang. I have a plethora of GPM upgrades on the way along with some Top Cad Aluminum Drift wheels/tires I got from Asiatees. I plan on doing the plastic bag steering slop mod along with the spring mod a couple pages back, I don't have any slop out of the box but I did camber in the front and adjust the toe. I have been sliding around with it for a few days and have two issues I was wondering about getting help with:
1. Most of the time I have to switch the car on and off several times before I can use the throttle, steering works great but most of the time it gives me three beeps(with red flashes in tune with the beeps), and goes green yet the throttle won't work. After a few minutes of messing with it it gives me the usual song and dance and works the way it is soposed to.
2. I don't really have a way of doing the rear tensioner mod so would I be able to do the belt lift up front and adjust the center farther forward and fix things? My rear belt is already slipping.
1. Most of the time I have to switch the car on and off several times before I can use the throttle, steering works great but most of the time it gives me three beeps(with red flashes in tune with the beeps), and goes green yet the throttle won't work. After a few minutes of messing with it it gives me the usual song and dance and works the way it is soposed to.
2. I don't really have a way of doing the rear tensioner mod so would I be able to do the belt lift up front and adjust the center farther forward and fix things? My rear belt is already slipping.
01-02-2013, 03:34 AM
#260
Tech Rookie
farm9 staticflickr com/8494/8335312389_daa2a3fe2c.jpg with periods in the spaces.
01-02-2013, 11:42 AM
#263
I has a Sprint 2 sport with the R35 GTR body and have a lot of mods and will have a lot of questions as we go along. This is my first modern RC that has an aftermarket aside from an X-Mods car. I also have an early 80's Mauri Samurai. As of right now my Sprint is stock aside from a 3300mah nimh battery, Zip ties holding on ESC+switch, and some drift wheels that came off a Sprint2Drift Mustang. I have a plethora of GPM upgrades on the way along with some Top Cad Aluminum Drift wheels/tires I got from Asiatees. I plan on doing the plastic bag steering slop mod along with the spring mod a couple pages back, I don't have any slop out of the box but I did camber in the front and adjust the toe. I have been sliding around with it for a few days and have two issues I was wondering about getting help with:
1. Most of the time I have to switch the car on and off several times before I can use the throttle, steering works great but most of the time it gives me three beeps(with red flashes in tune with the beeps), and goes green yet the throttle won't work. After a few minutes of messing with it it gives me the usual song and dance and works the way it is soposed to.
2. I don't really have a way of doing the rear tensioner mod so would I be able to do the belt lift up front and adjust the center farther forward and fix things? My rear belt is already slipping.
1. Most of the time I have to switch the car on and off several times before I can use the throttle, steering works great but most of the time it gives me three beeps(with red flashes in tune with the beeps), and goes green yet the throttle won't work. After a few minutes of messing with it it gives me the usual song and dance and works the way it is soposed to.
2. I don't really have a way of doing the rear tensioner mod so would I be able to do the belt lift up front and adjust the center farther forward and fix things? My rear belt is already slipping.
1- Your speed control MIGHT be on the way out. Make sure before you turn it on, that your radio is on, and you plug everything, then hit the switch and let it "boot up".
2- Take a look at post 246- http://www.rctech.net/forum/11614223-post246.html - you can adjust the rear belt!
01-02-2013, 08:50 PM
#264
Tech Apprentice
That was what I was trying to ask in my attempt at a solution, I am thinking of doing the "front belt lift mod" to also help with the slack because the front is slack but not slipping.
01-03-2013, 11:14 AM
#266
Hey, rodi =
I just got an email from the UK seller =
Attachment 1010340
He only has two HPI86005 remaining =
You better get one while you can!!!
01-03-2013, 09:55 PM
#267
thats some nice voodoo you got going on there marv! HPI FTW!
woohoo 10 posts!
woohoo 10 posts!
Last edited by EvIlEvO9; 01-03-2013 at 09:55 PM. Reason: woohoo 10 posts
2013 USVTA Scale Nationals April 12 - 14
01-05-2013, 12:44 PM
#269
what tyres use for asphalt?me use fastrax
01-05-2013, 12:57 PM
#270
All depends if you are racing, drifting or bashing.
Different tires for different disciplines.
For USVAT =
I use the tires and wheels that the USVTA RULES say are legal -
Same tires are used on carpet & asphalt.
For the local TC racing on a vinyl floor =
I use a pre-mount Solaris designed for asphalt.
Last edited by Marv; 01-05-2013 at 01:49 PM.