kidDynomite

Thanks, Midnight!

You could put the antenna mount on the top deck, but I hate putting any weight above the top deck, even battery wire weight.
I drilled a little hole on the side of my RX to re-route the wire right to the antenna mount. This way it won't be near the front belt.

I buy these female RX connectors from my LHS and have a special crimping tool for the small female contact inserts. For the GTX, you can use one regular female connector + a 2-prong (receiver battery type connector) for the ON/OFF switch instead of the big Novak 5-prong harness. This way you can make your wiring the perfect length.

As far as heat is concerned, most of the heat goes to the back when the car is running.

Midnight

iTrader: (87)

I never thought about it like that. That does make sense that the heat will go out the back.

acutts

Anyone know what weight oil comes in the 05 Kit?

JohnMatrix

30

JohnMatrix

I had the same issue, I finally said screw it and flipped the receiver on its side, I have a ton of extra room now, and its less chance of glitching.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Hey guys,

almost done building mine. Quick Q's for you xray xperts

- Do I need to rebuild the preassembled diff, or is it correctly built from the factory (ie greased properly, with graphite grease on the trust bearing, blablabla). I did notice it was a little on the loose side and tightened it already
- Lower a-arm mounts: how to make sure these are mounted properly? Mine bind like hell... when you tighten the screws these things turn too...
- lower a-arm mounts / rear toe in: do you guys use shims or clips?

Besides that, the parts quality is just amazing... absolutely unbelievable part fit. Definitely worth the price!

Thanks,
Paul

Patriiick

iTrader: (3)

You need to disassemble the diff, use associated black grease.

Lower arm mounts: Mine bind too, but i try to live with it and slightly enlarge them.. it s more a pb at the rear for toe in that the front where mine are 100% free.

I switched to aluminium shims..

cheers

MartynD

I polished the pins using metal polish first and then I put the hingepin in a dremel, and ran them through the arms until the dremel started to bog down. As the pin gets hot it gets hard on the dremel. I did this a few times letting the dremel and pin cool down between runs.

When tightening the pin mounts work back and forth, don't tighten one all the way and then do the other.

Ermm I'd use AE stealth diff lube on the balls, not black grease.

duckman996

iTrader: (14)

Make sure that you break-in the diff ... you menrtioned that you tightened it down ... it's loose for a reason - there is a break-in procedure so that you get maximum diff-life. X-Ray diffs are great when assembled properly ... you'll get several packs worth of runs before a rebuild, versus some of the other diffs on the market. You also want to use the X-Ray diff lube that comes with the kit, I found it a little better then AE lube in that the diff ran smoother, but still had the same "bite".

Pyramid

Take it out and use sticky grease such as Mugen Centax Grease

See here for pics: http://www.mytsn.com/publ/publ.asp?pid=10063

PS: I apply a drop or two of bearing oil to make the Mugen grease a bit lighter (less stickier as it is meant to be for GP centax trust bearing). Do not even bother using regular/normal strenght grease as they will just smear away as you run the car.

kidDynomite

Paul, after assembling the lower arms, loosen the four screws that hold the hinge pin holders. Then as you retighten each screw, push the arm in the direction of the screw you're tightening. This keeps the holder from spinning with the screw and allows it to sit perpendicular to the arm. If it still binds, redo them and add a little more pressure. If there's some slop, decrease pressure. I guarantee that you'll get them to drop like a rock on their own weight. This is how Josh Cyrul (X-Xray driver) and some of the other team guys have done it.

If you use 2 or 3mm aluminum spacers, polish them smooth for less friction on the pin holders, or you can use the teflon shims as well.

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

Look who's here

Lonestar

iTrader: (14)

All,

thanks for the FB.

I don't think anyone has clearly answered, but I take it the diff needs to be disassembled right away... I usually use stealth lube on the diff balls and graphite grease on the trust bearing. That's the typical AE setup, and it's treated me great for years.

Duckman: I tightened it because it was slipping like hell (in my hands during assembly) and I thought it was assembled properly (ie greased)... Had I not tightened it, it would have gotten worse. When a diff breaks in, it loosens up (the thrust bearing spring or Belleville washers actually soften)

A-arm holders: I'll do my best, thanks all for your inputs. With rubber we use 3deg, and as you can imagine nothing sits parallel to anything else anymore, so I guess a slight bind is not surprising after all... it'll break in. I'll also install Aluminum shims.

Any trick on a quick way to get the diff off the car without pulling half the chassis apart???

Thanks a lot!
Paul

tminus3

That is becoming a common problem with the newer car designs. Pulling the diff out seems to mean undo your whole chassis!

My TRF415 has the same issue.

Mr. Shookie

iTrader: (9)

Funny thing though the new Yokomo BD doesn;t have that problem, four screws and the diffs and the spur comes right out the top. I guess some companies are listening to the people...LOL
Just busting everyone's chops. I really like the new FK05 one of my racing buddies has it and man it layed it down...Great to see all the new cars coming out are all very competative.
Stephen <><