Finish Line's "F" brush
#1
Finish Line's "F" brush
What's the key to getting good numbers with this brush for 1/12 scale? I've tried breaking them in for 10 minutes @ 2.5v and the serrations still look new. How long does it take before they start showing the type of power that everyone has hyped about?
#4
1st off the F-brush is not exactly the greatest thing for 12th scale, they work verry well for 6cell applications but they are a torq brush and seem to be down a bit on power at the lower voltage.
To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -
break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V
In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -
break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V
In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
#5
Originally posted by mtveten
1st off the F-brush is not exactly the greatest thing for 12th scale, they work verry well for 6cell applications but they are a torq brush and seem to be down a bit on power at the lower voltage.
To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -
break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V
In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
1st off the F-brush is not exactly the greatest thing for 12th scale, they work verry well for 6cell applications but they are a torq brush and seem to be down a bit on power at the lower voltage.
To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -
break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V
In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
#6
To advance the timing you narrow the brush on the trailing edge only.
#8
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Just a little info for everyone. I built Jeff Daygers motor at the Snowbirds with the "F" Brush. He TQed 1/12 GTP Stock with this brush. I used a full face (no cuts) , green springs , squared the hoods , and shimmed it to the center of the magnetic field. I broke it in for 60 seconds @ 1 volt. I sell the brushes at www.kinetixrc.com
#9
Tech Fanatic
Originally posted by Artificial-I
I just got some for my vehicle. Got any links or diagrams on this?
Also what is the big deal about breaking a brush in. Why not just break it in on the car or basically wait till it gets full power.
I just got some for my vehicle. Got any links or diagrams on this?
Also what is the big deal about breaking a brush in. Why not just break it in on the car or basically wait till it gets full power.
#10
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
actually the track is the best way to break it in.. would you rather burn through a whole good run on your turbo 30? or burn it on the track.....
ask mike reedy how he builds a stock motor for his team guys..
F brush is a great brush.. ive been runing them in oval for a few weeks now.. ive broke stock record 3 times on them.. i think they work best in the 4 magnet motors... but well in two as well..
PS i have about 20-25 builds on my f brush.. there still getting better with every rebuild,, (5-6 runs).. im going to guess ill get 50-60 runs ut of the pair.. the serrations are finnally gone.. took 18 rebuilds
ask mike reedy how he builds a stock motor for his team guys..
F brush is a great brush.. ive been runing them in oval for a few weeks now.. ive broke stock record 3 times on them.. i think they work best in the 4 magnet motors... but well in two as well..
PS i have about 20-25 builds on my f brush.. there still getting better with every rebuild,, (5-6 runs).. im going to guess ill get 50-60 runs ut of the pair.. the serrations are finnally gone.. took 18 rebuilds
#11
Tech Elite
iTrader: (17)
Rebuilds?
I just finally pulled my old brush out of my motor and put in the F-Brush.
All I have to say is HOLY ***** its fast as ********.
From the first punch. My car acts completely different. I have a slipper clutch and diff....and before I would punch it at a dead stop and it would slip for like 1-2 seconds...and it would kinda take a sec to get that slip at first.
Now its instant slip all the way till top end. Its amazing. Its like a whole new motor , the thing drives completely different. Its like I either just bought a battery thats twice as good or a motor thats twice as fast but with the same relative rpm.
Before = WRRRRRZZZZZZZZZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Now = WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Its amazing. Everyone and their grandma should get this. I bought a few of these and also came up with a neat trick for cleaning the comm. Now I dont have to worry about getting it lathed all the time.
Also my old brushes were completely flat? Is that better? Can I still use those. I think my sides were getting all weird and chunked off. I think I chucked them, but thats ok they were crappy compared to the F-brush. So how many runs or builds (if you can explain it) can these take?
I just finally pulled my old brush out of my motor and put in the F-Brush.
All I have to say is HOLY ***** its fast as ********.
From the first punch. My car acts completely different. I have a slipper clutch and diff....and before I would punch it at a dead stop and it would slip for like 1-2 seconds...and it would kinda take a sec to get that slip at first.
Now its instant slip all the way till top end. Its amazing. Its like a whole new motor , the thing drives completely different. Its like I either just bought a battery thats twice as good or a motor thats twice as fast but with the same relative rpm.
Before = WRRRRRZZZZZZZZZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Now = WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Its amazing. Everyone and their grandma should get this. I bought a few of these and also came up with a neat trick for cleaning the comm. Now I dont have to worry about getting it lathed all the time.
Also my old brushes were completely flat? Is that better? Can I still use those. I think my sides were getting all weird and chunked off. I think I chucked them, but thats ok they were crappy compared to the F-brush. So how many runs or builds (if you can explain it) can these take?
Last edited by Artificial-I; 05-19-2006 at 08:43 PM.