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Old 01-26-2005, 06:00 PM   #1
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Default Finish Line's "F" brush

What's the key to getting good numbers with this brush for 1/12 scale? I've tried breaking them in for 10 minutes @ 2.5v and the serrations still look new. How long does it take before they start showing the type of power that everyone has hyped about?
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:23 PM   #2
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i broke mine in for 300 seconds or until the serrations showed contact with the comm and they worked great.i ran em in a roar stock on a large asphalt track.they performed very well
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Old 01-26-2005, 06:25 PM   #3
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I would ask Eric Anderson (EAMotorsports) about this. He knows the ins and outs of this brush and how to make it work as good as anybody else.
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Old 01-28-2005, 11:04 AM   #4
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1st off the F-brush is not exactly the greatest thing for 12th scale, they work verry well for 6cell applications but they are a torq brush and seem to be down a bit on power at the lower voltage.

To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -

break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V

In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:33 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally posted by mtveten
1st off the F-brush is not exactly the greatest thing for 12th scale, they work verry well for 6cell applications but they are a torq brush and seem to be down a bit on power at the lower voltage.

To get the best results with the F-brush in an RM first shave the brushes to advance the timing a little bit, to a brush width of .158. Then put thin ( about 1/2 the width of the eagle or trinity brush cutter ) verticle cuts in both the negative and positive brushes. Spring tension should be ~ 7 to 7.5fs + and 6.5fs -

break in time should be about 2-3 5min cycles @ 2V

In general high silver conent brushes shuch as Putnam greens work verry well for 4cell applications.
Could you be more specific about how to shave a brush for advanced timing. Which way do you shave it?
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Old 01-28-2005, 12:42 PM   #6
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To advance the timing you narrow the brush on the trailing edge only.
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Old 01-29-2005, 07:23 AM   #7
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I just got some for my vehicle. Got any links or diagrams on this?

Also what is the big deal about breaking a brush in. Why not just break it in on the car or basically wait till it gets full power.
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Old 02-17-2005, 09:50 AM   #8
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Just a little info for everyone. I built Jeff Daygers motor at the Snowbirds with the "F" Brush. He TQed 1/12 GTP Stock with this brush. I used a full face (no cuts) , green springs , squared the hoods , and shimmed it to the center of the magnetic field. I broke it in for 60 seconds @ 1 volt. I sell the brushes at www.kinetixrc.com
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Old 02-17-2005, 02:22 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally posted by Artificial-I
I just got some for my vehicle. Got any links or diagrams on this?

Also what is the big deal about breaking a brush in. Why not just break it in on the car or basically wait till it gets full power.
Well I don't know about you, but I want to be at full power from the start of the race not the end.
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Old 02-17-2005, 07:15 PM   #10
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actually the track is the best way to break it in.. would you rather burn through a whole good run on your turbo 30? or burn it on the track.....

ask mike reedy how he builds a stock motor for his team guys..

F brush is a great brush.. ive been runing them in oval for a few weeks now.. ive broke stock record 3 times on them.. i think they work best in the 4 magnet motors... but well in two as well..

PS i have about 20-25 builds on my f brush.. there still getting better with every rebuild,, (5-6 runs).. im going to guess ill get 50-60 runs ut of the pair.. the serrations are finnally gone.. took 18 rebuilds
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Old 03-07-2005, 05:30 AM   #11
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Rebuilds?

I just finally pulled my old brush out of my motor and put in the F-Brush.

All I have to say is HOLY ***** its fast as ********.

From the first punch. My car acts completely different. I have a slipper clutch and diff....and before I would punch it at a dead stop and it would slip for like 1-2 seconds...and it would kinda take a sec to get that slip at first.

Now its instant slip all the way till top end. Its amazing. Its like a whole new motor , the thing drives completely different. Its like I either just bought a battery thats twice as good or a motor thats twice as fast but with the same relative rpm.

Before = WRRRRRZZZZZZZZZZEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Now = WRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRREEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Its amazing. Everyone and their grandma should get this. I bought a few of these and also came up with a neat trick for cleaning the comm. Now I dont have to worry about getting it lathed all the time.

Also my old brushes were completely flat? Is that better? Can I still use those. I think my sides were getting all weird and chunked off. I think I chucked them, but thats ok they were crappy compared to the F-brush. So how many runs or builds (if you can explain it) can these take?

Last edited by Artificial-I; 05-19-2006 at 09:43 PM.
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Old 03-07-2005, 10:30 AM   #12
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If you were using the stock Speed Jem Brushes, yeah, the F-brushes are going to be a ton better. I've been using these since just after Cleveland, and can't believe the power, speed, and wear out of these things. Absolutely awesome.
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