Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Damn, all this foam tire stuff makes me want to stick with rubber, lol.

What do you guys usually true the tires down to when they are new?

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

i run mine at 60mm and under at revalation. I know Chris t.
was running his at 58mm at the nats. most of it is also to get
a good rollout for your gear ratio plus the car just handles
better for me at 60mm and under.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Cool, I'm going to order a Hudy tire truer, and a buttload of Ellegi tires, so I'll just true them down to the right size. Ever messed with under and overdrive?

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

i have the overdrive option on my car right now but haven't
tried it yet. from what i know you will need to run a 4mm split
to get the rollout even. i just want to see if it is even worth running the tire splits. i would recomend the rayspeed pistons
with 1mm x2 for the rear and 1mm x1 for the front pistons.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

You wouldn't have a complete setup sheet for rev would you?

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

I was just going to ask JWF-Frani for the Rev setup myself

I runed my Yok at Rev for the first time on Sunday, and the car was very driveable, but slow. I had 40w oil on all 4 shocks. I will try heavier oil next time, but it would help if I had a setup to start from.

thanks,

Steven Muller
MPP

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I cant wait to get my aluminum back from the anodizer, and get this car together. My titanium screw set arrived yesterday, so I'm ready to build...

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

heres the rundown on my setup. this is not from the nats just
because my car was way off for the nats.


front: 55wt oil with grey springs rayspeed piston 1mm x1
outside hole shockmount on arm and tower. Note use the
longer shock end.

rear: 60wt oil with green springs rayspeed piston 1mm x2
inside hole in tower


front toe out 1 degree / front camber 1.5
rear toe in 2 each side / camber 2.5

tire size 57front and 61 rear.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

nitro dude i will work on the car this weekend so that i can
give you a better setup on the car. also one of the most
improtant to remember with the GT4 go thicker on diff fluids
and seal it good the car just works better on 100,000wt or
difflock and make sure you seal it good.

RandMan try to post the pic of your car when it gets back from
the anodizer.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

tabushi have you gone and tried your car with the camber adjust
ments.

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

I'll have pics as soon as it's together..

You mentioned 100000wt oil, is that for the rear? I was gonna go with 30000.

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

yeat that is for the rear when you run a one way. make sure
to seal it good with gasket sealant or it will just leak out and
it will empty out pretty quick

Randy Caster

iTrader: (47)

Wow, that seems really heavy... I still have gasket material that I bought from my last GT4.

afm

Randman
It all depends on how much traction you have on the track. For example I just came back from the track because we have an hour race this Sunday, and since we only run rubbers down here and the track is semi-permanent and dusty (low to mid traction) I had to go to 50,000 wt up front and 10,000wt on the rear, the car performed awesomely. Before that i used to have 100,000wt up front and 30,000wt at the rear and the car just would't turn on tight corners and on fast corners it wen't wide.
So as a rule of thumb with differentials I'd say allways the front has to be harder than the rear, and the more traction you have the harder both must be and viceversa.
Now if we are talking about a track with lots of traction(prepared) and on foams I think the way to go would be solid rear and one way up front, so as to not scrub off to much speed on the corners.
AFM

Francis M.

iTrader: (2)

I agree with afm on his diff guide line. but at rev. make sure
to run a oneway up front as for the rear diff i just go with a
diff lock or 100,000 since the solid just does not seem to suite
some of the turns in the track.