CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

As long as you got one with the V2 software that didn't shut off the speedo at 6 mins. The ver. 1 made 8 minute 12thscale races a bit of a problem......

InspGadgt

I had wanted to get it running again but since 1/12th has gone to LiPo it just sits. I really don't want to run a LiPo saddle pack either. I'd be willing to part with it if someone is interested. I also have the 1/10th version but without the balsa core made by DA but sold under a different name. The one that can use the Schumacher straps to hold the battery on.

I never got to run mine in 1/12th that I recall...If I did it was probably my 2nd one which would have been a V2. Mainly I ran it in my EV10 so I wouldn't have ran into the 6min problem.

CypressMidWest

iTrader: (1)

I saw the demise of the T-bar as the first day that I had my Carpetknife. If I still had some old 12l stuff laying around, I'd take it for sure. I sure miss the old days.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Attachment 749573
First instructions for prototype gear diff

Attachment 749574

Attachment 749575
Autographed instructions for super phaser/Art and ?

Attachment 749576
Someone was asking about this kit.

Attachment 749577
1982

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

Attachment 749579
1982

Attachment 749580
JJ the beginning.

bakaguyjean

iTrader: (1)

Here is a scan form my Japanese magazine from the 1984 worlds.
The rest of the pages can be seen on Flickr.



America takes top honors by Niki Lauda, on Flickr

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Since Joel Johnson's name has been recently posted, I thought I should post these pictures. JJ's 1986 Roar National's body. I also had Rick Hohwart's winning TOJ but I let a friend have it, big mistake.

TracySlatten

Johnny,
Attachment 749576
Someone was asking about this kit.

Yes, this is the kit i was trying to get details on. Do you have anymore photos on this installation.

I think i have figured how and what, but any other info would be great.

The additional "pot" tied the the center post on the steering pot. It added more resistance to the circuit for either steering direction. With the pot all the way down, 0 ohm, means no end point limiting for the steering servo. with the pot turned up, it added in series, ressitance in the circiut and limited servo throw. (At least this what i think). If anyone knows different, please let me know.

I have to measure the total resistance accross the steering pot in the radio to get an idea of the how much more i need in the "rate pot".

Thanks Tracy

terry.sc

Ah, steering rateswitches, how to make your own adjustable transmitter instead of spending a fortune on an old high end radio. Here's a full wiring diagram for an old school steering rateswitch.



Should be fairly self explanatory.

The rate pot is the one that should be sticking out of the handset and is the one you use when racing, the trim pot is built inside and once set must be left alone.
Once built with the steering centred turn the rate pot up and down and make sure neutral does not move. If it does adjust the trim pot until the servo does not move in neutral when you turn the rate pot up and down.

Full instructions to fit it.
The Rate Pot wants to be a potentiometer with a 1/4" shaft that can be screwed through the case so you can adjust it.
The trim pot can be any small potentiometer, I use a tiny pcb mounted one so it can be soldered directly to the centre leg of the rate pot to keep itm out of the way.

1. Remove back of transmitter and drill a suitable hole for the rate pot, making sure the back of the transmitter still fits okay and the pot doesn't hit anything. Attach the steering rate pot to the case.
2. Rewire the transmitter following the diagram above, the green lead in the diagram was the wire that comes from the PCB to the middle pin on the steering pot, move it to the rate pot and add all the other wires.

3. Set the steering trim to the centre, switch on the transmitter and the car. With the stick at centre, turn the Rate Pot fully clockwise and anti-clockwise. The steering should not move, if it does readjust the Trim Pot until no movement is seen.

4. With the Rate Pot fully anti-clockwise, full movement of the stick should produce little movement. With the Rate Pot turned fully clockwise full movement of the stick should produce maximum steering. If the reverse happens or you want it to work the other way swap wire on 1 & 2 on Rate Pot.

5. Tidy up all the wires in the transmitter ensuring none foul the stick mechanism and there are no possibility of short circuits.
Now replace back of transmitter and you are good to go.

terry.sc

As for old bodies, I can add Andy Dobsons unused spare TOJ body from the 1990 worlds in Singapore, signed by him at the event. Lightweight body, no overspray on the two colours and the dark stripe is actually clear. I notice no one goes to that extent to save body weight these days with their multicolour paint jobs.

TracySlatten

Terry,

Killer! thanks for the diagram.

Tracy

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

I have about 8 - 3 inch ring binders of rc stuff from the 70's up. I know that I put that kit in one of my BBs but I haven't found the actual document yet, I'll keep looking.

Your theory is correct your just splitting the steering pot to limit the throw on lock to lock. If i remember correctly its the same value of the existing pot but 1k seems to be what I remember.

You could also split that and put in 2 trim pots to limit the end points, but I can't remember how that got wired in.

I'll keep loking for the actual document.

Sorry I was in the middle of doing this post and got side tracked, and the above ones got put up. Nice.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Very cool Terry, I remember him but I was never able to race at a race with him entered. He lived in the US for awhile if I remember correctly. Anyone else have anything cool to post. I have a IFMAR worlds shirt that I had some people sign, i'll post that soon if someone wants to see it.

vafactor

iTrader: (6)

my first serious RC racer was an AE 12I. That sucker went undefeated for about 2 years. But there's an explaination for it's unprecidented success......back in the day, nobody (including me) knew anything about RC or especially RC racing rules. On the day that I purchased the AE car, the local hobby shop had only 7 cell stick pack batterys in stock. 7 cell packs were only a couple of bucks more than a 6 cell pack, and the shop had them in stock. Even better, the salesman advised that 7cell battery packs were a little faster and they would also provide a little more run time. And they did fit in the car (barely). So, what the hell. My first on-road RC racer was a 7cell 12I. To make it even more interesting, I ran it with a mild modified motor........again on the advice of the hobby shop sales guy. Like I said, nobody knew what the heck we were doing. As one can imagine, my mod 7cell 12I was one rocket of a racecar. Nobody local (including me) knew that my super mod 7 cell mod 12I was illegal as hell. No wonder it went undefeated for so long............I kicked everybody's butt every week and until the local club discovered that there were indeed actual rules that applied to RC racing. So much for the undefeated streak. From the 12I, it was on to a delta spyder (which I ran on my first trip to Cleveland over 25 years ago), then an AE12L, a corally, back to an AE12L, various newer edition AE Lcars, a speedmerchant, a Darkside, even a slapmaster, eventually I settled on a CRC T-fource, and now finally the trusty CRC GenXL. Gotta love them all. But I must admit that I really miss having twice as much rip and double the run time as the competition. Thems were the days, when we ran whatever we had in the parking lot behind the local hobby store. The faster the better. Rules? What rules?

Bob-Stormer

iTrader: (8)

Gary is so old he sat behind Jesus in first grade!