Kyosho v-one rrr
04-03-2006, 02:38 PM
#5641
Originally Posted by 710baby
So Am I
looking at your comments that there are some rough areas & the track is pretty technical
here are some of my recommendations if you don't like his set up
Front toe 0 tire shore 35 or 37 true down 61.5 spring black
rear toe 2.5 tire shore 37 true down 63.5spring gold
front camber 2mm/ droop 3mm to reduce onpower push
rear camber 4mm/droop 1mm
front shock position stock
rear shock last hole outward
ride height front 5.5
rear ride height 6
caster settings 2mm front & back nuetral position
going with all your caster settings front will create to much of an aggressive entry & real sluggish exit out of turns since the car comes with 0 degree spindles if it came with 2 degree then the caster settings up forward would be ok. with a higher traction wear from the track you should get at least 2 qualifiers with your tires if you don't chunk. I tried this setup @ a track in Ny similiar to what your running with the same conditions. LMK the outcome
looking at your comments that there are some rough areas & the track is pretty technical
here are some of my recommendations if you don't like his set up
Front toe 0 tire shore 35 or 37 true down 61.5 spring black
rear toe 2.5 tire shore 37 true down 63.5spring gold
front camber 2mm/ droop 3mm to reduce onpower push
rear camber 4mm/droop 1mm
front shock position stock
rear shock last hole outward
ride height front 5.5
rear ride height 6
caster settings 2mm front & back nuetral position
going with all your caster settings front will create to much of an aggressive entry & real sluggish exit out of turns since the car comes with 0 degree spindles if it came with 2 degree then the caster settings up forward would be ok. with a higher traction wear from the track you should get at least 2 qualifiers with your tires if you don't chunk. I tried this setup @ a track in Ny similiar to what your running with the same conditions. LMK the outcome
Thanks for the info. I have noted your specs as well.
Will let you know how it all works out.
04-03-2006, 03:49 PM
#5642
Originally Posted by Team Kamikaze
you might want to switch the front caster clips all to the rear of the arm if using softer rear tires
doesn't make sense you are changing the ackerman position which might give the front more bite than the rear
04-03-2006, 04:57 PM
#5643
What is more durable, dish or spoke wheels?
What is more durable, dish or spoke wheels? My preference is dish wheels, because of the performance advantages of the solid surface, but this past weekend, after some front tire track barrier impacts, the wheel got completely bent out of shape and started wobbling really badly. Does this also happen to spoke wheels?
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-03-2006, 05:49 PM
#5644
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What is more durable, dish or spoke wheels? My preference is dish wheels, because of the performance advantages of the solid surface, but this past weekend, after some front tire track barrier impacts, the wheel got completely bent out of shape and started wobbling really badly. Does this also happen to spoke wheels?
Thanks!
Thanks!
in my opinion any rim is better than spoke rim also most all rims get wobbling when hit hard enough. 
04-03-2006, 05:58 PM
#5645
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What is more durable, dish or spoke wheels? My preference is dish wheels, because of the performance advantages of the solid surface, but this past weekend, after some front tire track barrier impacts, the wheel got completely bent out of shape and started wobbling really badly. Does this also happen to spoke wheels?
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-03-2006, 06:06 PM
#5646
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
199 front, 200 rear..
Alright, I now know your car is the proper width and you are using tires that are the right size (in width) but... one more time... what is the tire diameter (the height of the tire) you are using?
Ex. 60mm front, 62mm rear (or something like that)
I guess I am making an assumption that you true your tires. If you don't then my question is irrelivent. What I am trying to tell you is that your rear tires may be to tall and try a 1mm split (front tires 1mm shorter than the rear). If your tires are the same size then this is not your problem.
04-03-2006, 06:14 PM
#5647
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
What is more durable, dish or spoke wheels? My preference is dish wheels, because of the performance advantages of the solid surface, but this past weekend, after some front tire track barrier impacts, the wheel got completely bent out of shape and started wobbling really badly. Does this also happen to spoke wheels?
Thanks!
Thanks!
04-03-2006, 06:48 PM
#5648
Originally Posted by 710baby
Is that the only reason you recommend changing the caster clips
doesn't make sense you are changing the ackerman position which might give the front more bite than the rear
doesn't make sense you are changing the ackerman position which might give the front more bite than the rear
The caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.
04-03-2006, 07:34 PM
#5649
Originally Posted by jag
Yes, a spoked wheel will bend or even break if you crash hard enough. I have a box full of bent Jaco's.
04-03-2006, 07:37 PM
#5650
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Hey, George! How ya' been?
The caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.
The caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.
Actually, the question that george (710 Baby) asked was in response to an answer, Team Kamikaze provided me.
I think that the "diff lube" reference was from another conversion as well.
But, the info is all good!
I am trying to setup my car for the attached track.
I now have a question for you (Kewdawg), what position I should place the rear upper arms? (IN or OUT)
You also spoke about the rear shock poisiton. In using a K-Factory rear shock tower, which position do you like? (4 positions only)
Looking forward to your comments.
04-03-2006, 07:43 PM
#5651
Originally Posted by kewdawg
Hey, George! How ya' been?
The caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.
The caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.
the RRR has really been treating me really good time to take it apart & give it a good thru & thru guess what Mike will be running a MTX4 for the new season he will find out just like a lot of other guys the found out the difference betwwen the cars hopefully he will get the setup to run as close to his last car. Be good any big races your planning to attend this year
04-03-2006, 07:52 PM
#5652
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Hi Kewdawg,
Actually, the question that george (710 Baby) asked was in response to an answer, Team Kamikaze provided me.
I think that the "diff lube" reference was from another conversion as well.
But, the info is all good!
I am trying to setup my car for the attached track.
I now have a question for you (Kewdawg), what position I should place the rear upper arms? (IN or OUT)
You also spoke about the rear shock poisiton. In using a K-Factory rear shock tower, which position do you like? (4 positions only)
Looking forward to your comments.
Actually, the question that george (710 Baby) asked was in response to an answer, Team Kamikaze provided me.
I think that the "diff lube" reference was from another conversion as well.
But, the info is all good!
I am trying to setup my car for the attached track.
I now have a question for you (Kewdawg), what position I should place the rear upper arms? (IN or OUT)
You also spoke about the rear shock poisiton. In using a K-Factory rear shock tower, which position do you like? (4 positions only)
Looking forward to your comments.
04-03-2006, 07:56 PM
#5653
Originally Posted by V1-RRR-WC
Hey Team Kamikaze,
Again, thanks so much for all the info.
As for the 40 shore tires, I will not have these till next weekend, so what specs should I run this weekend with the 37 shore till I get the 40?
I have also ordered the rear sway bar as suggested (1.8) which will come in the same time with the 40 shore tires. So, can I use the (2.0) for now?
What adjustments should I make in the meanwhile for this?
Since I will have 37 all around for this weekend, should I just remove the rear sway bar?
Also, when you say "you might want to switch the front caster clips all to the rear of the arm if using softer rear tires" do you mean softer than 37?
What about the rear upper arms? Should these remain stock at 2mm and in the OUT position?
I also noticed you did not mention anything about the rear down stop or spring colours (front & back).
Let me know.
Thanks!
Again, thanks so much for all the info.
As for the 40 shore tires, I will not have these till next weekend, so what specs should I run this weekend with the 37 shore till I get the 40?
I have also ordered the rear sway bar as suggested (1.8) which will come in the same time with the 40 shore tires. So, can I use the (2.0) for now?
What adjustments should I make in the meanwhile for this?
Since I will have 37 all around for this weekend, should I just remove the rear sway bar?
Also, when you say "you might want to switch the front caster clips all to the rear of the arm if using softer rear tires" do you mean softer than 37?
What about the rear upper arms? Should these remain stock at 2mm and in the OUT position?
I also noticed you did not mention anything about the rear down stop or spring colours (front & back).
Let me know.
Thanks!
04-03-2006, 07:57 PM
#5654
Originally Posted by 710baby
What's up Dawg been good getting in a lot of racing in the past 2 weeks
the RRR has really been treating me really good time to take it apart & give it a good thru & thru guess what Mike will be running a MTX4 for the new season he will find out just like a lot of other guys the found out the difference betwwen the cars hopefully he will get the setup to run as close to his last car. Be good any big races your planning to attend this year
the RRR has really been treating me really good time to take it apart & give it a good thru & thru guess what Mike will be running a MTX4 for the new season he will find out just like a lot of other guys the found out the difference betwwen the cars hopefully he will get the setup to run as close to his last car. Be good any big races your planning to attend this year
) before I go outside for the nitro season. I haven't really gave it much thought, but I'll definitely be going to the eXpress and Trinity sponsored races at Jackson R/C this spring / summer. I believe there's going to be some races down in the Maryland area, too. We'll see... I could turn up just about anywhere! 
04-03-2006, 08:10 PM
#5655
[QUOTEThe caster clip's position changes the caster angle. The steering bellcrank positions (10,11,12) will affect ackerman. Moving the clips forward will increase on-power steering (less caster). Moving the clips to the rear will increase off-power steering (more caster).
The problem with the rear "fish-tailing", has to do with the rear tires not being able to apply the power to the ground. As previously stated, your rear diff lube could be too heavy. Try 5000 wt. (in low-traction / rough track situations) to allow more diff action. This will allow the rear tires to apply the power to the ground. Going with a softer shock setting (laying the shock down more, a softer spring and / or lighter oil) will help, too. If, you haven't already, I'd start with the diff lube first. I've found, that, running a lighter swaybar or no swaybar on a tight, technical track causes the rear to roll excessively which slows your corner speed and creates an unpredicable car. You can lower the outer camber link position by removing the spacer. This will increase chassis roll, give more sidebite / traction but still allow the car to corner quickly due to the swaybar keeping the car more level.[/QUOTE]
Corner entry ,mid corner, corner exit.......also is it happening on or off power..... this is what we really need to know to correct the handling issues wouldnt you guys thinks so just IMO