venom54

Below is a link to a PDF file with all the info you require.

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ng-Springs.pdf

Cheers

Ren

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i would keep motor spray or brake cleaner, or any other liquid away for the X seals , they swell up so much. not a good idea. puts extra stress on the seal and if you happen to run it the same day, its likely to be binding up and wearing it out premo. a little shock slime on the outdrive shaft is all that is needed.

JayBee

iTrader: (31)

Wow, that's surprising. I've had about 4 racedays this year on asphalt with this car (dual geardiffs) and no leakage whatsoever. Are you sure the 2 halves of the diff case is 'seated' correctly?

S.A.W

Thankyou.

BCDK

Hi mutley001.

Nice, that you could use the indoor set up from Rasmus.

The set up works also with a modified motor as well. Rasmus has now driven the car for about 25 batteries with a modified motor, and he has set 3 new track records. On a track, where he drives about 10-15 batteries every week in the winter season. He now can drive 33 laps in 5 minutes on the track almost every time. Last weekend 8 times in a row. With the previous car (Tamiya 417) it was maybe once or twice every week.

You write the word, that describes the driving of the Serpent: it is EASY to drive - and more important: it is EASY to drive it FAST.

We have tested some more settings, and changing the FR brace to a 1,5 makes the car even easier to drive - but not faster. We also tried the standard 1,4 mm rear anti roll bar again, and changed the damper settings one whole to the 6th. position. Very small changes, you feel it (rear more stable), but not faster.

mutley001

iTrader: (1)

Thank for the reply

Actually ou mentioned here the things I planned on trying next. Raising the shock positions another hole, trying the 1.4 rear roll bar etc so I'll rethink.
At the moment I'm running kit arms and hubs etc so I think my next move should be to go with the hard versions. Do they make a big difference to lap times???
Are people finding them brittle at all?
Anyway - thanks for the info it saves me a buch of testing time!

S.A.W

Hi,

I think the uk version comes with a 2.5mm chassis and top deck but looking at alot of set up's most run the 2mm or 2.25mm is it best to get this for the UK tracks espcially with low to med grip ? what about top deck thickness ?

Also would I need to change arms, hubs etc to hard ?

Any other items I should get or change for the UK ?

Thanks.

xtaiji

My kit, there is a spur gear but isn't v2 blade. I receive v2 blades separently from my local shop.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I've pulled it apart and put it back together several times trying to stop it leaking. Also did this to try and get the thing to stop wobbling (was still wobbling slightly). Maybe this is related to the leak?

99% sure that the O ring wasn't twisted too (It was one of the things I checked), but you never know.

Chances are it's probably me doing something wrong anyway.

Anyway, I'll pick up some of that green slime and try that.

Dragonfire

iTrader: (1)

Thats my point... I use them on the diff to make sure the seal is good. Its is also greased so it is quite smooth and free. Of course you keep the motor spray away from your shocks... thats a big no no.

DanDan

iTrader: (6)

Hi hi,

Is the oil leak from outdrive? Or screws holes? Or the gap from pulley teeth

mattwoodcraft

iTrader: (10)

id be checking to make sure the seal has not been pinched if its leaking bad i would just repalce them all i bought spare ones but havnt had a problem with leaking diffs even my spare gear diff i put in the front is good also no leaks

Pattojnr

iTrader: (19)

i was talking about the diff seals. in no way or form would you want to expand seals before they are fitted. all it does is create other issues. coming from a Hydraulic background, this is from years of experience. forcing something round into a round hole, it makes the seal out of round. then you compress it, and im sure you know what happens next. but i dont want to argue about it. so lets move on.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

I actually just rebuilt it to check it, as I had it sitting around for 3 weeks and noticed that the rear belt was completely lubed up (and the insides almost dry).

I suspect it was coming out through both, as previously i noticed the teeth completely lubed up and earlier i found the plate where the screw heads are lubed as well.

Anyway it's been 24 hrs and no signs of leaking, so maybe I got lucky this time.

I'll still get some green slime anyway I guess.

silvalis

iTrader: (29)

mmm This is what I suspected I did the first time, however there were no signs of pinching when i pulled it apart. I may fit a larger oring one day and see what happens.