TryHard

iTrader: (4)

Same here, I have a hatred of hooks, so don't bother with them. I just tape under the chassis and over the top, and just use the plastic brackets to postion the battery either forward or backwards, which combined with turning the battery round, means quite a few options on weight position.
Currently running brackets forward, with battery connectors forward as well, so mass is somewhere in the middle of all the options.

RC MARKET

iTrader: (12)

Yes had new ver. upper bulkhead

Bhodi11

I was hoping to get a few suggestions on setup. Im going to be building 2 ERYX this weekend. I have read through the wealth of info you guys have posted. I not sure how to translate into a usable setup. Basically starting out with friendly parking lot racing and maybe a few trips to some nearby tracks. Pretty much a noob at touring. Is the stock setup decent or terrible? I have settled on 92/41 gearing, Orion VST Pro2 13.5T, R10 Pro esc, and a S9551. Overkill for my purposes likely but why not and I just tend to dive into things. For tires I picked up some Sweeps R36. I have liked their 1/8 tires so seemed like a good place to start. Any suggestions on setup / fluid weights would be welcome.

whityboy

iTrader: (1)

the stock setup is decent and would start there. if you dind't read the nice buildttips of Gary Lanzer, read them you can fin them on petitrc.com under setups sheet, some nice there are some nice build tips in it. gearing sounds good. but as always check temps and go from there. if you have problemes just ask,

Bhodi11

Is this the right link? Good info, thanks! What traction would a relatively good parking lot be?

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/serp...ntS4112.0.html

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

V3 diff out drives are aluminum, the xray is light spring steel. I have many hours of run time on my V3 diff and am still using the original blades which show very little wear to them. Is it the blades that are breaking down?

Tire tweak, paragon or Liquid Gravity all work well, sort of depends on the track and surface prep.

corallyman

iTrader: (101)

Gotta agree with Johnny on this too. I race Mod or 17.5 depending on track and turnout at the race, and my V3 diffs are perfect after many heats of use. Still on the first set of blades and the outdrives are in awesome shape. 2000 cst oil in the rear, 2.5 million cst in a front V3 gear diff.

Steve

Linguster

[QUOTE=Johnny Wishbone;12317579]V3 diff out drives are aluminum, the xray is light spring steel. I have many hours of run time on my V3 diff and am still using the original blades which show very little wear to them. Is it the blades that are breaking down?

I have been using the blades all the time and they have not broke off, but the wear on the aluminium outdrives is what you get running the original spol with no blades. Due to the extensive slack created in the outdrive the wear is high on the blades. I thought that Xray diff also used aluminium, then we have the explanation there.

Johnny Wishbone

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=Linguster;12317648]
I could be wrong on the material for the newest xray diffs, I think they are still spring steel. BUT, this sounds like your talking about the front spool, if so, the Serpent outdrives have several options. We have delron outdrives, nylon outdrives, or the original steel outdrives.

Of those, the delron outdrives are the least desireable, the have a high failure rate due to the tips of the axle are on the very tips of the outdrives and if you hit the boards with your wheels turned it breaks the outdrive.

The liteweight nylon spool works pretty good and has a better life although it will eventually reem out at the pin tips just from the on and off power of racing.

The steel outdrives give the most life, but even they eventually get worn at the tips, again from on and off power situations.

The only thing that has given better life to the nylon and the steel outdrives, since they are steel on steel, is I shrink wrap the outdrive, once the bearings are installed, I pack the outdrive with black grease, which really helps take some of the shock out of the on/off power situations. The shrink wrap keeps the grease inside the outdrive so it doesn't spray the grease all over the car.

Hope that answers your question if I understand you correctly.

On a side note, the weight difference between all the combinations of spools is around 10 grams.

F1 driver

Last year I opened up the slots of the front steel outdrives and mounted blades on the front axles. No wear on the outdrives anymore, the only thing I have to do now is replace the blades now and then.

valk

iTrader: (13)

Tempted to modify my front steels this way. Dogbone starting to carve them.

Linguster

[QUOTE=Johnny Wishbone;12317754]Sorry for my english and not making my questions/statements clear what I am asking. But a picture tell more then 1000 words... Picture taken after 30 runs and this is my third V3 diff this happens to.

Jeronemo

Hi All , I have been out Racing for a while and I am trying to catch up. I have a S411.
Looks like the models after that was the , S411LE , S411TE and now the ERYX.
My questions are did I miss any model and I want to get the latest model and I see some places the ERYX and ERYX 2.0 is it the same thing or is there already a version 2.0 of the ERYX.
Also I have a lot of spares for my S411 like , C-hub , steeringblock , wishbone front and rear , belts ect. Does the ERYX use the same parts ?
And last question which parts are supplied in the ERYX kit for the wishbone , C-hub ect , will it be the Hard , Medium or Soft

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

The new car has revised plastics, a new chassis design, short shocks and a new plastic geared diff. If I were you, I would run your old car with new shocks, towers and the diff.

Benzaah

iTrader: (24)

So we had the Scotty Ernst run Asian Onroad Championship here in Australia over the weekend. This is the first big carpet event here in Australia so it was a big learning curve running on carpet. 5 rolls of CRC meant a larger than expected track with a nice open layout compared to the tight track we were expecting. Grip got up to meduim according to Keven Hebert who attended the event but this is higher grip than i have ever experienced. The learning curve was also compounded by it being the first time I've run 17.5 blinky, popping a 6 run old Express killshot RPM in the process. This was one of only 3 motors to let go over the weekend which was a shame and the other 2 let go in the A mains as guys pushed hard for the win.

I had a great weekend with the ERXY. I managed to qualify 12th out of 40 in stock missing the show by 3 seconds. I lost 6 seconds on that run with bad back markers so i was pretty pissed not to make the main. Thats racing though! Another racer running a TE put it into the main but our set ups were a bit different. I finished my B mains 3rd, 2nd and 1st losing the B main on a count back with a slower win. Ironically my second place was a faster time missing the extra lap by 1 second.

Car was outstanding reacting to all the changes I made. Prior to the event I had sent a few Pms to Gary(johnnywishbone) which gave me a great idea base to adjust the set up. I started with the Fischer ETS set up and adjusted to a wider front end, subtle camber link positions and harder gear diff. I spaced the shocks out on the front and just drove the wheels off it. I found running the old hard arms and hubs more beneficial than the new plastics. I blew up a gear diff trying 5k oil which set me back as I then only had 1 diff to run.

I did not figure out proper tire prep till the second main which is where I set my fastest lap of 13.339 which was the main pace bar 1 racer who cracked a 13 flat.

Ill post a set up sheet once I get onto the laptop.