Capricorn Lab E01 .12 Engine
08-04-2010, 03:55 AM
#31
When the gap is 0.42 the shoe doesn't rub at all, I can clearly spot an airgap between the shoe and the bell with my bare eye.
To stop the clutch from slipping I would suggest starting out with 0mm of preload (after setting the gap of course) and go from there. It shouldn't slip with this setting, if it does there is a different problem, i.e. wrong measurement, little mistake during assembly.
If the clutch doesn't slip start giving it more preload until it starts slipping again, then back off the preload nut a quarter of a turn and your clutch should be perfect.
To stop the clutch from slipping I would suggest starting out with 0mm of preload (after setting the gap of course) and go from there. It shouldn't slip with this setting, if it does there is a different problem, i.e. wrong measurement, little mistake during assembly.
If the clutch doesn't slip start giving it more preload until it starts slipping again, then back off the preload nut a quarter of a turn and your clutch should be perfect.
i measured the end of the clutchbell to the shaft with & without bearing, and its
with bearing: ~5.3mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
without: 5.2mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
so its about ~0.1mm away from fully touching the shoe.
i checked the bearing.. it is pushed in all the way!..
by the way, this is the RRR version of the capricorn clutch.
08-04-2010, 06:58 AM
#32
i got it at 0.6mm, it doesnt make a difference.. the clutchbell does not touch the shoe 100% like it does without the bearing. it is kinda just 'kissing' the shoe.
i measured the end of the clutchbell to the shaft with & without bearing, and its
with bearing: ~5.3mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
without: 5.2mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
so its about ~0.1mm away from fully touching the shoe.
i checked the bearing.. it is pushed in all the way!..
by the way, this is the RRR version of the capricorn clutch.
i measured the end of the clutchbell to the shaft with & without bearing, and its
with bearing: ~5.3mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
without: 5.2mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
so its about ~0.1mm away from fully touching the shoe.
i checked the bearing.. it is pushed in all the way!..
by the way, this is the RRR version of the capricorn clutch.
measure it without the clutch bell bearings. Put enough shims before the thrust bearing so as to achieve a zero gap play
(the bell touches the shoe, but it can still turned against the shoe, just rubbing it) and then remove the amount of shims so as to have
the desirable gap. For example, if you want to have 0.4 mm gap play,
shim behind the thrust until gap is zero (bell touches shoe) and then remove
2x0.2mm. Then, install the bearings and shim the front until you ll have a small end-play, just a 0.1mm.
then grease the thrust bearing using graphite grease and you are ready! The clutch spring tension is the only
adjustment you ll make on the track.
08-04-2010, 02:27 PM
#33
It's available:
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1275
Fastest motor a normal consumer can buy.
http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1275
Fastest motor a normal consumer can buy.
08-04-2010, 09:16 PM
#34
why so much confusion with the clutch play?
measure it without the clutch bell bearings. Put enough shims before the thrust bearing so as to achieve a zero gap play
(the bell touches the shoe, but it can still turned against the shoe, just rubbing it) and then remove the amount of shims so as to have
the desirable gap. For example, if you want to have 0.4 mm gap play,
shim behind the thrust until gap is zero (bell touches shoe) and then remove
2x0.2mm. Then, install the bearings and shim the front until you ll have a small end-play, just a 0.1mm.
then grease the thrust bearing using graphite grease and you are ready! The clutch spring tension is the only
adjustment you ll make on the track.
measure it without the clutch bell bearings. Put enough shims before the thrust bearing so as to achieve a zero gap play
(the bell touches the shoe, but it can still turned against the shoe, just rubbing it) and then remove the amount of shims so as to have
the desirable gap. For example, if you want to have 0.4 mm gap play,
shim behind the thrust until gap is zero (bell touches shoe) and then remove
2x0.2mm. Then, install the bearings and shim the front until you ll have a small end-play, just a 0.1mm.
then grease the thrust bearing using graphite grease and you are ready! The clutch spring tension is the only
adjustment you ll make on the track.
05-02-2011, 05:06 AM
#35
finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
05-02-2011, 07:57 AM
#36
Tech Regular
Locally, Florida USA, the guys using the Cap motors are getting 5 minutes without any problem. Are you using 16% nitro fuel? Where do you run?
05-02-2011, 12:23 PM
#37
yes we are using %16 nitro byron race gen fuel
we race in turkey..
we race in turkey..
05-04-2011, 04:50 PM
#38
Change your time zone, im sure this will fix your problem
05-05-2011, 12:12 PM
#39
have you ever said something is possible or never happened to you?
05-05-2011, 12:57 PM
#40
Tech Initiate
finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
Arman
05-06-2011, 12:42 PM
#41
ohoo herkes burada
06-07-2013, 06:01 AM
#42
I take it these engines are shimmed for 16% Nitro from the factory as usual?
I have the Lab E-01 SQR Engine
BM
I have the Lab E-01 SQR Engine
BM
06-07-2013, 06:10 AM
#43
finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
06-07-2013, 11:50 AM
#44
Hey all ,
Can I use my Nova Rossi
C5TGF
C6TGF
Turbo plugs in my Lab E-01 Engine or do I need to buy more plugs?
I have a few plugs, brand new from when I was running my Plus.12-3SCT I would like to use them if possible.
I will be using 16% Nitro.......
BM
Can I use my Nova Rossi
C5TGF
C6TGF
Turbo plugs in my Lab E-01 Engine or do I need to buy more plugs?
I have a few plugs, brand new from when I was running my Plus.12-3SCT I would like to use them if possible.
I will be using 16% Nitro.......
BM
06-07-2013, 12:04 PM
#45
The 6 is a good all rounder, and the 7 will be ok for when it's hot or on a track with very long straights.