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Old 08-04-2010, 04:55 AM   #31
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When the gap is 0.42 the shoe doesn't rub at all, I can clearly spot an airgap between the shoe and the bell with my bare eye.
To stop the clutch from slipping I would suggest starting out with 0mm of preload (after setting the gap of course) and go from there. It shouldn't slip with this setting, if it does there is a different problem, i.e. wrong measurement, little mistake during assembly.

If the clutch doesn't slip start giving it more preload until it starts slipping again, then back off the preload nut a quarter of a turn and your clutch should be perfect.
i got it at 0.6mm, it doesnt make a difference.. the clutchbell does not touch the shoe 100% like it does without the bearing. it is kinda just 'kissing' the shoe.

i measured the end of the clutchbell to the shaft with & without bearing, and its
with bearing: ~5.3mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
without: 5.2mm from end of clutchbell to shaft

so its about ~0.1mm away from fully touching the shoe.

i checked the bearing.. it is pushed in all the way!..


by the way, this is the RRR version of the capricorn clutch.

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Old 08-04-2010, 07:58 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
i got it at 0.6mm, it doesnt make a difference.. the clutchbell does not touch the shoe 100% like it does without the bearing. it is kinda just 'kissing' the shoe.

i measured the end of the clutchbell to the shaft with & without bearing, and its
with bearing: ~5.3mm from end of clutchbell to shaft
without: 5.2mm from end of clutchbell to shaft

so its about ~0.1mm away from fully touching the shoe.

i checked the bearing.. it is pushed in all the way!..


by the way, this is the RRR version of the capricorn clutch.

why so much confusion with the clutch play?

measure it without the clutch bell bearings. Put enough shims before the thrust bearing so as to achieve a zero gap play
(the bell touches the shoe, but it can still turned against the shoe, just rubbing it) and then remove the amount of shims so as to have
the desirable gap. For example, if you want to have 0.4 mm gap play,
shim behind the thrust until gap is zero (bell touches shoe) and then remove
2x0.2mm. Then, install the bearings and shim the front until you ll have a small end-play, just a 0.1mm.

then grease the thrust bearing using graphite grease and you are ready! The clutch spring tension is the only
adjustment you ll make on the track.
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Old 08-04-2010, 03:27 PM   #33
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It's available:

http://www.capricornrc.com/os_capric...oducts_id=1275

Fastest motor a normal consumer can buy.
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Old 08-04-2010, 10:16 PM   #34
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Originally Posted by gfilos View Post
why so much confusion with the clutch play?

measure it without the clutch bell bearings. Put enough shims before the thrust bearing so as to achieve a zero gap play
(the bell touches the shoe, but it can still turned against the shoe, just rubbing it) and then remove the amount of shims so as to have
the desirable gap. For example, if you want to have 0.4 mm gap play,
shim behind the thrust until gap is zero (bell touches shoe) and then remove
2x0.2mm. Then, install the bearings and shim the front until you ll have a small end-play, just a 0.1mm.

then grease the thrust bearing using graphite grease and you are ready! The clutch spring tension is the only
adjustment you ll make on the track.
ill just add 0.3mm shims behind it (+ the 0.1mm thats already pushed out) and will give me 0.4mm.
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TEAM ASSOCIATED B5 - POWERED BY TEKIN RS GEN2/TEKIN GEN2 17.5
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Old 05-02-2011, 06:06 AM   #35
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finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
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Old 05-02-2011, 08:57 AM   #36
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Locally, Florida USA, the guys using the Cap motors are getting 5 minutes without any problem. Are you using 16% nitro fuel? Where do you run?
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Old 05-02-2011, 01:23 PM   #37
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yes we are using %16 nitro byron race gen fuel
we race in turkey..
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Old 05-04-2011, 05:50 PM   #38
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yes we are using %16 nitro byron race gen fuel
we race in turkey..
Khalid,

Im running this engine in Zimbawie! and I can get easy 6 minutes. I thing the problem is with your Local time Change your time zone, im sure this will fix your problem

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Old 05-05-2011, 01:12 PM   #39
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have you ever said something is possible or never happened to you?
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Old 05-05-2011, 01:57 PM   #40
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finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
4:30 mins with my murnan rbm3. Who did 6 mins pit stops? The weather was cold, we all used rich carb settings.

Arman
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Old 05-06-2011, 01:42 PM   #41
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ohoo herkes burada
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:01 AM   #42
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I take it these engines are shimmed for 16% Nitro from the factory as usual?

I have the Lab E-01 SQR Engine

BM
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Old 06-07-2013, 07:10 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khaledome View Post
finally we tried this engine last weekend. in my team we bougth 2 of these.
2 of them had the same issue, we made the break in as described in the capricorn manual , both went through around 20 tanks. we tuned it finally just before the race, engine worked around 110 degrees, in the weather temp around 20-22 degrees. engine performance was very good. but there was a very big problem of fuel consumption. 75cc tank only lasts 3:30 min. we used them with 2662 exhaust.
all the other cars were having their pit stops around 6 mins.
what do you think of this?
What plug you used?
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Old 06-07-2013, 12:50 PM   #44
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Hey all ,

Can I use my Nova Rossi
C5TGF
C6TGF


Turbo plugs in my Lab E-01 Engine or do I need to buy more plugs?

I have a few plugs, brand new from when I was running my Plus.12-3SCT I would like to use them if possible.

I will be using 16% Nitro.......

BM
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Old 06-07-2013, 01:04 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
I take it these engines are shimmed for 16% Nitro from the factory as usual?

I have the Lab E-01 SQR Engine

BM
Yes, engines are build for 16% nitro.

Quote:
Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
Hey all ,

Can I use my Nova Rossi
C5TGF
C6TGF


Turbo plugs in my Lab E-01 Engine or do I need to buy more plugs?

I have a few plugs, brand new from when I was running my Plus.12-3SCT I would like to use them if possible.

I will be using 16% Nitro.......

BM
No problem. The 5 will give most power, but at the expense of runtime and it makes the tuning very critical when you want to extract every last bit of power out of the engine.
The 6 is a good all rounder, and the 7 will be ok for when it's hot or on a track with very long straights.
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