jasons36

iTrader: (36)

Ran my car for the first time this weekend and had an absolute blast. We had 4 of us out there almost all with different motors. We were all friends so agreed to adjust epa so everyone was the same top speed down the straight. I had one problem im hoping you guys can help with. A few times when i took a hard hit it seemed to knock my steering out of alignment for lack of a better term. I would have to add massive amounts of trim to keep it driving straight and by the end of the day not even trim kept me straight. Seems as if my servo horn was off by a couple teeth over where it started the day. Is anyone else experiencing this problem? Is there a fix?
Thanks for the help.

cannon

iTrader: (35)

Possible reasons:

If it is the standard FF03 kit and you are using the standard servo saver .. throw it out . It is rubbish and will not centre because the plastic spring flexes

Possibly your servo is not centring properly. This can happen with cheaper servos

If you are using the Tamiya hi torque servo saver, make sure no slack in the joints where it all goes together. Where the spring clips fit in will wear and cause some slop in the servo

Make sure you have used the right spline piece for your servo. Wrong number of teeth can allow "jumping on the servo horn

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

My club just ran a TCS warm-up race last Sunday and we used the Canadian TCS rules. FF-03 in its own class with the silver can motors and the Reedy 2400 lipo, and the TA-05 was eligible for the GT2 class running the black can motor and any lipo.

I was a lap faster with my FF-03 even with the diss slipping badly compared to some running the TA-05. The FF-03 is awesome.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

I gear 76/58 with a Tekin RS and Tekin Redline 21.5 on v212, profile 1 (spec mode). Results and impressions same as Cuda -- come off the track at 120°F or less.

reenmachine

iTrader: (26)

Yes there is, depending on conditions. On a fast, flowing track I can hang just fine but on a tight, technical track with lots of tight low-speed corners I lose out due to relative lack of forward traction.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

That's what I'm gonna try next, a 76 spur with my 58 pinion and maybe even go to a 60 pinion to help tighten up the mesh since my motor is gettin close to the gearbox.
My point was that I know it is a gear ratio that is on par with a lunar launch but the temp is telling me that there is still plenty of room for more and I also feel that it will not be lacking punch.

Brushless loves tall gears, but when it's boosted, that is a place I have not been.

If turbo makes that much difference as to where stuff is gonna fry without question, I'd tiptoe around with ultra low gearing and slowly work my way up.

OVA

iTrader: (86)

Hi
Do you still have Cuda spares diff parts in your pit box?

Waco

We still run 27 turn brushed motors & 17.5 brushless in the 'stock' class & it goes without saying that the brushless are quicker. Our club has divided the results classifying the brushless as F1 with non-turbo brushless & brushed as F2 as we all run together. The track layout is well balanced insofar that we have a long straight & some fairly technical infield & that's where me & my son (also running an FF03) usually catch up & make some ground (go figure!)

I can tell you though that during qualifying, we are on a par with the other brushed 4 wheel drives & it gets 'interesting' on the finals as, for obvious reasons, we're a little slow off the grid, but by the sweeper we are usually in the thick of it again.

So, in relation to our track; all chassis' running the same class of motor, no significant discrepancy...

jebolution

i used a tamiya servo saver in my pro and after few hits here and there i could not get it straight anymore even after trimming. i ordered online for a kimbrough servo saver at amain hobbies and problem solved.

padailey

iTrader: (11)

Outdoors? Big track?

I just tried a 78x60 (3.38 FDR) indoors (98x48 track) and the straight speed was good but the infield I was really bogging down. I was running much better lap times with a 4.9 FDR but the straight speed was really slow for the class (21.5 open esc). I've also run around a 4.4.... guess I'm still searching for what works best.

NiMo

On my 4wd 13.5 car on a 155ft main straight.
About 2-3yrs ago I was running a pre-timing LRP with LRP 13.5 motor, motor timing almost fully advanced, I was gearing at 4.2:1, and yes motor was way hot.
Now I am running Tekin RS Pro 212 with LRP X12 13.5, and am now geared at 8.05:1. I am doing over 55mph and motor temp is mid 70's C.

Tekin say to run a lower ratio than expected.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Not sure what you are asking?

I will tell you that I still have the original diff build in my car from day one (months ago and several hours of runtime) using all stock plastic parts, thrust bearing and screw, dogbones etc.

Just recently I hurt the original idler gear and replaced it with another original idler gear (yes, I did and still do have Cuda spare diff parts in my pit box cuz of all the guys that seemed to kill their diffs instantly ) and that 2nd idler gear is also holding up well.
My point is that when I replaced the idler gear, I left the original diff alone and put it back in again so I have yet to rebuild my "all plastic" diff.
Most of the runtime on this car has been with the 21.5 geared way up.

17.5 may have to happen soon tho.

jasons36

iTrader: (36)

Can you post a link or the part # to the one you're using? What brand servo do you use, I'm using a Hitec 965. Thanks

SteveM

iTrader: (165)

The Tamiya servo savers do not fit the splines on the Hitec servos and that's likely why you experienced steering issues.

weekendracer_uk

Well after two weeks of waiting my 3 racing diff parts have turned up so no more stupid glued on diff rings. Just need some free time to fit them now.